“This collection is an evolution of my idea of CALVIN KLEIN—of a view onto American society—but now wider, universal. It’s an allegory for a meeting of old worlds and new worlds, relating to the discovery of America, the 1960s Space Race, and the twenty-first century information age. Reflecting the notion of democracy, there is no cultural hierarchy: the mixes emancipate clothing and references from their meanings, from their own narratives, and collage them to discover something different—a different dream. More than anything else, this collection is about freedom. A word that defineS America, and CALVIN KLEIN.”
—Raf Simons, Chief Creative Officer, CALVIN KLEIN
Titled LANDSCAPES, the Fall 2018 CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC show was staged in an epic and unreal terrain simultaneously recalling a cinematic soundstage. The backdrop draws on CALVIN KLEIN’S recent history, but reconfigured: fragments of Sterling Ruby’s installations for the brand appeared against parts of the nineteenth century prairie barn featured in the CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC Spring 2018 campaign; the barn walls are papered with billboard-scale images of the artworks by Andy Warhol used in the same collection; beside them, air-duct tubing emerges, an alien touch of the scientific or laboratorial. The floor is carpeted with deep drifts of popcorn: from a distance, it resembles snow.
The collection and venue showcased the ongoing and multi-level collaboration between CALVIN KLEIN and The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. Warner Bros.’ Looney Tunes characters Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner, originally shown as shorts in cinemas from 1949, are also featured on select garments. The latter recall childhood innocence, the all-important idea of American Youth, and they can also be seen as a parable of the pursuit of the American Dream.
Fri, February 23 2018 » Fashion Blog
The Spring 2018 CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC collection takes its inspiration from cinema, from the dream-factory of Hollywood and its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream. Thriller heroines, heroes and antiheroes. The aesthetic codes of movie protagonists are endlessly remixed, their meanings given new interpretation and celebration.
Drawn from the same source material, but created separately, artist Sterling Ruby’s site-specific installation for the Spring runway show underscores these themes. The work uses as its base the installation from the Fall 2017 show, just as the collection builds on the foundation established by its predecessor – a new wardrobe, of American archetypes.
The “clues” of horror, but also of dreams, inspire the collection. Here, there is never any horror without beauty. Cinema’s distinct visual vocabulary of symbols and signs, is cut-up, recontextualized and reassembled, to create a plurality of dress. Multiple signifiers of the tropes of thrillers are combined in single outfits, creating new assemblages. They are ‘edited’ – like a movie – to define a fresh narrative.
“It’s about American horror and American beauty,” says Raf Simons. “Fashion tries to hide the horror and embrace only beauty. But they are both a part of life. This collection is a celebration of that: a celebration of American life.”
Mid-century American couture silhouettes are rendered industrial, reiterated in nylon, rubber specially-molded in Ohio and hand-painted leather. Lumberjack checks are used for tailored men’s suits. Pom-poms are reappropriated for fringed dresses, handbags or keyrings, and nightgowns become evening-gowns. Material surfaces are disturbed, distressed, rubber-stamped, faded and splattered. The collection’s dominant colors are safety orange, yellow, black, overwhelmingly red.
Fishnet, silk slips, rubber against skin. These reference a corporeality that speaks of both sexuality and mortality. The lineage of these movies can be traced back to urban myths, to puritan cautionary tales warning adolescents of the perils of moral transgression and the dangers of youthful sexuality – and the history of CALVIN KLEIN is tied up with transgressive sexuality.
The quintessence of CALVIN KLEIN’s identity can be discovered, again and again. Like these movies, CALVIN KLEIN is also an American institution, a symbol in and of itself. It reflects one facet of that always-inspiring American Dream. A pair of the brand’s iconic perfume bottles – ETERNITY and OBSESSED – become totemic charms, hanging from belts and handbags like tools, weapons or trophies.
In exploring America, Raf Simons found Andy Warhol – an artist whose work has helped define both the contemporary identity of American culture, and also the world’s perceptions of it. In a unique collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, this collection incorporates a selection of Warhol artworks as placement screen-prints.
The pieces feature portraits of Warhol intimate and art collector Sandra Brant (1971) and the movie star Dennis Hopper (1971). The latter wrote, directed and starred in the film Easy Rider (1969), which has come to define contemporary notions of American machismo.
The curation also includes Knives (1981-2), Electric Chair (1964-65) and Ambulance Disaster (1963-64) from Warhol’s Death and Disaster Series. This body of work depicts real-life horror and trauma, but transforms them into images that resemble film stills – here, they are laid alongside Brant and Hopper, the muses of the collection. Horror is juxtaposed, always, with dreams. It always becomes beautiful. Good always triumphs.
Sat, September 16 2017 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Calvin Klein Established 1968 Fall 2017 Men’s + Women’s Fashion Show from New York live Friday, February 10th at 10 AM. Stay Tuned…!!!
Thu, February 9 2017 » Fashion Blog
Wed, February 25 2015 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2015
Francisco Costa, Women’s Creative Director
Urban eroticism. Introducing the Fall 2015 women’s Calvin Klein Collection, where unexpected, contrasting proportions collide and come to life.
Silhouettes. Simply streamlined. Sophisticated yet sporty; delicately blended and free-spirited. Skirts in full length or minis allude to the daringly, unpredictable purity and provocation of the collection. Urban sportswear transforms as a second skin with metallic knit jumpsuits and turtlenecks paired with patchwork and patent leather. Coats are key for the season with reinterpreted trenches and mini peacoats. Evening emerges with a maxi dress with a plunging neckline, constructed from a web of precisely linked skins.
Fabrics. Manipulated, textural leathers and softly luxe wools ground the collection. Cashmere and woven chenille are contrasted by parchment leather and shearling, which is sometimes curled, sheared, embossed, raised, or needle punched for effect. Patchwork provides an intricate artisan appeal, while deconstructed, frayed edges and stud details add a youthful, yet elevated exuberance.
Palette. A gradient at feminine and naturally subtle hues — ranging from ivory to blush and wood — form the base. Complimenting shades of black, forest, terracotta, aubergine, and burgundy add powerful depth to the line. Hints of metallic accents bring shimmer and allure, while patent surfaces give a luxurious, glossy undertone.
Accessories. Refined paradox. Chicly crafted in stretch suede or stretch napa, the boot and tall boot are lightweight and feminine with a square toe. An oversized, front-zip boot and an updated Mary Jane emerge in various shades at patent or haircalf with a mid-heel. The low-side loafer in patent or tortoise print features a tortoiseshell heel. The signature chain-link Calvin bag has evolved into mini clutch, saddle bag, and crossbody sling variations, featuring an oversized resin or tortoise strap.
Tue, February 24 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, January 27 2015 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director
Powerful. Cinematic. Monochrome. Introducing the men’s Fall 2015 Calvin Klein Collection. A modern and compelling interpretation of menswear essentials. Iconic silhouettes rendered in rich fabrics and textures; a gray spectrum inspired by classic black and white films.
Silhouettes. Outerwear and sportswear pieces are executed in extreme proportions, balancing the oversized with the form-fitting, and are layered throughout to create depth. The aviator jacket features a shearling collar and is cropped and tailored close to the body, while double breasted overcoats, parkas and capes are voluminous and generously fit. Matte rubber finish snaps and thick metal zippers add an industrial element. Juxtapositions persist with pants that are either high-waisted and tapered through the leg or loose and relaxed. Lightweight mohair and chunky Fair Isle sweaters with mesh inserts provide an added dimension. For evening, the double breasted peak lapel tuxedo is modernized with an upturned collar.
Materials. A range of weighted materials – bonded flannel, mélange wool and cashmere, printed tweed and mohair – amplify the strength and multi-dimensional feel of the collection. Surfaces are highlighted in glossy vinyl or embossed cheetah and leopard prints.
Colors. Grayscale. The palette is tonal and monochromatic, ranging from white to black with hues of light heather, basalt, granite, gotham, charcoal heather and anthracite in between.
Accessories. Rugged and utilitarian. Field boots, in smooth calf or patent leather, are featured throughout the collection in either high or low top styles. Each pair is designed with an oversized box toe and is accented with a front-zip ankle cuff. Commuter bags, portfolios, pouches and travel wallets in printed haircalf or shearling are carried together and complement the coordinating separates. A luxe take on the baseball cap combines leather with wool, croc or nylon mesh.
Tue, January 27 2015 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa, Women’s Creative Director
Seductive simplicity. Introducing the Spring 2015 women’s Calvin Klein Collection. Sophisticated proportions combine an uptown sensibility with a downtown edge.
Silhouettes. Architectural liquidity. A delicately, strong blend of easy yet refined separates. Drawing from menswear, an elongated tank becomes the anchor silhouette of the collection. A play on proportions; light, ribbed tops with assertive scoop fronts and racer backs atop cropped and ultra wide-leg patched pants. High waisted, delicately formed, stainless belts complement the collection’s soft, subtle layers and fluted and flared skirts. Simple forms and shapes are transformed with texture – such as hand-perforated leather dresses in vibrant shades of lacquer red and marine blue. Honeycomb knit is woven with Lurex, edged with delicate metal inserts and threaded leather trims for a crisp yet feminine construction. Quiet seductive lines continue into eveningwear with deep plunging necklines balanced with embroidered metallics.
Fabrics. Fine knits with ribbed textures underpin the entire collection, while glossy jacquards and hand-punched leathers create surface interest. Diverse and elaborate threadwork and stitching emerges on modernist jacquards and silks. A colorblock patchwork or a bold, oversized dot print materializes to create a dramatic effect. A silver knit fringe coat presents an element of glamour.
Palette. Saturated color. Grounded in a mélange of blues — from marine and dark navy – add depth to natural shades of cream, papyrus and white, while most surfaces have an alluring, subtle sheen and finish. The palette is capped with a statement-making lacquered red.
Accessories. Modernist appeal. A bold, sculptural platform in a lacquered patent leather is offered as a one, two or t-strap. A variation of the silhouette is crafted in monochrome lizard and is finished with a stainless bracelet ankle strap. A sling-back silhouette, crafted with a clear, solid, Plexi base, juxtaposes natural aesthetics with a sporty, modern allure. Available in black, navy, white and red lacquer.
Sun, September 14 2014 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection © Copyright 2014
Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director
Graphic lines. Bright hues. Bold statements. A sharp palette of summery, high energy brights are grounded with essential neutrals and modernized with layers of transparency. A sporty yet elegant simplicity pervades in updated versions of classic menswear pieces.
Silhouettes. Lightweight and lightly textured cotton tanks and t shirts, rounded and curved, add a soft, cool layer under bright, transparent blousons and jackets. Some layers are purposefully neutral, while others are more richly hued for a more vibrant pop of color. The bomber, lightly quilted in mesh and softly padded, is tailored to hit just above the waist, often with a peek of color or skin. Following last season, pants are slim and lean and offered in cotton tech stretch and bonded wool, always with a turned up cuff. Suiting is refreshed by mixing colors and fabrications for fresh combinations. The double breasted peak lapel tuxedo, modernized yet elegant, with a statement monochromatic or contrasting stripe on the trouser side seam.
Materials. A second skin. A sexy, athletic spirit underpins jackets and tops rendered cool in sleek nylons, luxuriously soft leathers, and modern materials like PVC. Richly textural, lightweight and exotic, eel becomes a highlight when rendered as a baseball jacket or a tank top. Dense cottons and bonded wools contrast with layers of microtexture mesh to create a mix of surfaces in unique combinations. Iconic men’s trunk and boxer brief underwear styles, layered and rendered in light mesh, give a nod to an important heritage of the house.
Colors. Heat. Confident, intensely bright and saturated shades of solar yellow, tangerine, and vermilion red add depth and warmth to a neutral palette of buff, chestnut, char, white and black. Tonal and monochromatic schemes evolve into color blocked tableaus with peeks of vibrant solids, transparent layers or insets. For evening, contrasted colors or PVC stripes give a modern polish to a classic tuxedo pant or lapel. Bold and graphic.
Accessories. Intersecting performance and utility. Sporty high top sneakers, in softest French calf, with monochrome geometric insets and a lightweight desert boot sole. Utilitarian backpacks and small, personal leather goods are rendered in luxe combinations of alligator or French calf with nylon and finished with black matte hardware and finishes in buff or bright hues of vermilion and solar. The updated pilot sunglass with a tonal metal frame and geometric lens.
Wed, July 2 2014 » Fashion Blog
Modern. Urban. Workwear. Introducing the men’s Fall 2014 Calvin Klein Collection. Reinterpreting the most classic items of a man’s wardrobe, in thoughtful, luxurious styles constructed from elevated materials. Plays of proportion and layers on sharp, confident silhouettes add a refined appeal.
Sportswear and outerwear pieces in masculine proportions, whether form-fitting or oversized, are layered throughout for highly textural combinations. Richly weighted materials and skins – alpaca, brushed silk, embossed wool, double faced cashmere, and leather shearling – add depth and structure, while playing with volume.
The surface is always in focus with unexpected techniques like embossed cable patterns on sweaters, resin coated alpaca, highly glazed nylons, and chicly felted flannels. Technical and noble fabrics are mixed, seamed or pieced, bringing hard and soft, and matte and shine together on tops, jackets, and quilted pullovers.
Referencing more utilitarian workwear, bombers, overshirts and pullovers – in bonded or felted wool, cashmere or shearling – have been modernized into more sophisticated, urban versions of these classic silhouettes. The cognac shearling leather bomber jacket or a generously oversized parka with a removable macro mesh lining and thick, matte finish zippers add an industrial touch.
Pants are offered in two proportionate styles; as a loose two pleat style or a leaner, pencil pant. Graphic sweatshirts that reference the heritage of the house, employ iconic words from the vocabulary of the brand language. Timeless. The tuxedo, but with less formality. A peak lapel worn with a hidden placket shirt and utility boot.
A rich palette of tone on tone caramel, sable and cognac, as well as strokes of brigade green and thistle complement touches of grey mélange and black.
Accessories are industrial with luxurious finishings. The utility boot or oxford, with overall chunky proportions, is featured throughout in brigade green soft calf leather. Each pair features a wheeled double welt construction, box stitched toe with a stacked leather sole.
The pocketed backpack is cleanly finished with matte black studs and industrial zippers, echoing the ready to wear hardware. It is smartly harnessed to a small, leather pouch with a hand-painted edge, as well as to a soft calf leather key fob with an oversized gunmetal utility clip.
Mon, March 24 2014 » Fashion Blog