With a view to intimacy and an escape from the outside world, Damir Doma invokes notions of primitive craft for Autumn Winter 2017-18. A dialogue of masculine and feminine tropes remains integral to his vision, manifesting in a call and repeat of warm texture and earthly tones. The intrinsic ‘fil rouge’ of punk and pagan devices forms a raw patchwork of poetic deshabillée.
The gestural emphasis of knotting and tying garments punctuates the season’s design message, as asymmetries distort the traditional notions of a coat, a dress, a shirt. Their soft volumes envelop the shoulders and fall in cocooning layers of distressed finery from bleach-spattered satin to blasted buffalo hide, melange striped wool jacquard, silvered corduroy, and a brushed two-tone herringbone. The colour palette rises from dark navy, antique black, graphite, burnt umber and cool ivory to a monastic shade of carnelian orange, its fire echoed in resin pendants dotted with the semi-precious stone.
Defining the silhouette’s disrupted line, paperbag trousers and split trench skirts hug the waist in bunched shapes; boxy shirt jackets or tunics wrap and unfold with extended collars, and detached lapels are scrolled with velvet buttonhole embroideries. Cinched slip dresses and tops come slashed or knotted with panels of satin and panne velvet, worn over laddered cable knits and two-tone sweaters stitched with velvet thread.
On foot, flat thigh-high boots flash in jewel-coloured stretch velvet and sturdy brogues are airbrushed with negative tonal stripes. The new mykita dd ‘fedor’ sunglasses are crafted in flat, thick-rimmed steel with floating optical lenses and a rose gold finish.