Musings on collecting and the path of a millennial wanderer inflect the Spring Summer 2018 collection by Damir Doma with a radical democracy, as an abstract narrative of pattern and textures defines doma’s cast of characters. Grounded in the familiar, their garments border convention through dynamic gestures of cut and craft, as the patina of time intersects with latent athleticism.
Drawstrings, dissected panels, and asymmetric corset ties create new volumes for an ample silhouette: unexpected draping alters archetypal pieces from the trenchcoat to blousons, blazers, and masculine shirting. Surface effects abound as bleach spots, swirling embroideries, pointillist dot corrosion prints, self-striped jacquards and overpainted fil coupé florals create moments of mixed media in light, fluid layers of cotton silk and linen blends, patchwork denim, silk georgette, crisp poplin, and a mosaic jacquard. The palette diverges from summer neutrals to cold shots of grass green, marigold, violet and lavender.
In partnership with historical Italian label Lotto, a jersey capsule distills the brand’s geometric logo as a bold stamp wound around sportswear separates, whilst their white tennis shoes are finished with a pale terracotta veneer. Artisanal derbies and clogs by officine creative feature grosgrain ankle ties and are crafted in smooth leather and the season’s floral prints.
The new nita sunglasses by Mykita / Damir Doma are constructed in lightweight stainless steel and featured the controlled chaos of a scribble-effect wire frame. Beaten bronze jewellery by slim barrett bears accents of sterling silver in bold wheel motifs and fine fob chain details that hang as earrings, pendants, and brooches.
Sat, July 1 2017 » Fashion Blog
With a view to intimacy and an escape from the outside world, Damir Doma invokes notions of primitive craft for Autumn Winter 2017-18. A dialogue of masculine and feminine tropes remains integral to his vision, manifesting in a call and repeat of warm texture and earthly tones. The intrinsic ‘fil rouge’ of punk and pagan devices forms a raw patchwork of poetic deshabillée.
The gestural emphasis of knotting and tying garments punctuates the season’s design message, as asymmetries distort the traditional notions of a coat, a dress, a shirt. Their soft volumes envelop the shoulders and fall in cocooning layers of distressed finery from bleach-spattered satin to blasted buffalo hide, melange striped wool jacquard, silvered corduroy, and a brushed two-tone herringbone. The colour palette rises from dark navy, antique black, graphite, burnt umber and cool ivory to a monastic shade of carnelian orange, its fire echoed in resin pendants dotted with the semi-precious stone.
Defining the silhouette’s disrupted line, paperbag trousers and split trench skirts hug the waist in bunched shapes; boxy shirt jackets or tunics wrap and unfold with extended collars, and detached lapels are scrolled with velvet buttonhole embroideries. Cinched slip dresses and tops come slashed or knotted with panels of satin and panne velvet, worn over laddered cable knits and two-tone sweaters stitched with velvet thread.
On foot, flat thigh-high boots flash in jewel-coloured stretch velvet and sturdy brogues are airbrushed with negative tonal stripes. The new mykita dd ‘fedor’ sunglasses are crafted in flat, thick-rimmed steel with floating optical lenses and a rose gold finish.
Tue, January 24 2017 » Fashion Blog
In a symbolic location, Damir Doma proposes a collection bound by sculptural strength, drawing upon the memories & moods of a perennial muse. Fabric works envelope the body in fundamental exercises of draping and repair. As kundera attributes ‘slowness’ to the act of remembering, and speed to the act of forgetting, so the collection considers an equilibrium of the travaillé and the untouched.
The cocooned, trapeze silhouette layers a long, straight jacket and a high neckline over wide, short trousers or a fluid skirt to continue an inherent dialogue between the codes of mens and womenswear. Solid colours warm from black and bone white through deep forest green, caramel, cherry, and prussian blue. Belted kimono coats accentuate a pure line, whilst contoured overcoats are dotted with horn buttons and veiled in fringed wool voile.
A timeworn effect touches garments with delicate and brutal details: selvedge traces pockets, zips, and hems on bomber and parka coats, whilst raw seams frame tailoring in waxed leather and wool. Applied to dry jersey, blotches of overprinted japanese paper isolates the same abstract expressionism as rich brushstroke jacquards and a fil coupé prince-of-wales check stamped with crude ellipses.
Rollneck sweaters and a column dress are cinched with cotton tape (like wide sutures) and softened by the speckled melange of inside-out ribbed cashmere knit. On foot, zipped neoprene boots have been edged in rough suede.
Tue, May 24 2016 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 14 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, July 5 2013 » Fashion Blog
A reverent guard of stone effigies hold vigil over the blooming lavender and citrus trees of the Corsini gardens. By day, their solemn silhouettes stand tall against the harsh tuscan sun; as dusk falls, the weathered sentinels cast long shadows across the verdant labyrinth.
The grandeur of architecture softens and fades into the evening, as obscurity arrives withe the night. Handmaidens appear diaphanous, in garments suffused with the hues and lines of landscape. Structures are betrayed by chiaroscuro, as cloth and skin mingle in seductive chemistry.
In a palette od concrete, sandstone, onyx and indigo, abstract geometries of the cubist painting school inspire a patchwork of airy textiles placed across the body. Dresses as paintings.
An angular rhetoric defines the collection’s graphic edge, with the 3D notion of perspective causing horizons to appear and disappear in smooth planes.
Shantung silk and watery jacquard evoke the rough textures of the palazzo exterior against and abundance of poplin cotton, chosen for a polished asceticism.
Keyhole cutouts and transparency highlight the shoulder in striped knitwear and bonded jersey bustiers, opposing the rigid proportions of box tunics and smock dresses cut in striated silk gazar, starched poplin and a sheer, spotty jacquard.
By way of ruched inserts, the crisp lightness of panelled blouses and shifts is tempered at the waist in a manipulation of volume – its effects heightened against the flat form of a kimono sleeve.
Opening the show, the symmetry of a strict column is disrupted in a slash of amethyst jacquard, and elsewhere a blazer wraps across the hips in bicolor silk, laced across the shoulders in thick whipcord.
This threaded technique is echoed in raffia at the gathered waist of full cotton skirts, which feature pooling patch pockets adding further shape.
A passage of bright white highlights the crucial silhouettes under a clinical glare, mirrored in a finale of inky black. Square-heeled sandals wrap across the toe in a collage of striped python and nylon weave.
Fri, July 5 2013 » Fashion Blog