Nocturnal Glamour. Evoking the sultry smokiness of the femininity conjured by the make-up of Serge Lutens. London’s Camden Palace and Mud Club and an expression of the many schools of style that a club night might convene. Hard romantic. The Flamboyance of the night. The mystery of elegance. A ray of shadow.
A Theatrical Party Girl / Bella Donna / Vamp / Iconoclast. Familiar styles heightened for the night, from punk, rockabilly, disco, liberty and dark Hawaiian prints, 1930′s Hollywood, 80′s Japan, matt minimalism and shimmering maximalism. Boots from Kinky Stiletto to Glam rock platforms.
A gathering of silhouettes: the variety of night. Men’s tailoring – sleek to oversize – to the sheer elongated and feminine. Wools and cottons of the city and country. From subtle and discreet to the extravert and exaggerated. From tightly wound to louche comfort, peignoir to suiting. Saharienne, one piece overalls, sheath dress, rubberised trench coat. Plisse soleil, batwing evening dresses, capes.
Night and dusk and day. Shadowy matt and shine. Shades of wine. Verdant acids. Cognac, Bucolic greens and blues, Traditional tartans. Purple, lilac, beetle, orange, olive, emerald, lapis, gun metal.
Matt & Metals, Translucent latex, Traditional velvets and Devoré, faux shearling, Urban, rustic, diaphanous, raw denim, crepe e soie, satin, quilting, georgette, Bonded wool bouclé. Luxurious poplin.
PRINT & EMBELLISHMENT
Dark Hawaii. Python. Tattoo. Florals – exaggerated Iris. Ruching, feathers, iridescent circles, biker studs, sequins and micro beading. Fringing, bugle beading, 3D flowers adorn cuffs and hems.
Boots: Kinky Patent and Suede Spikes to Glam platforms in leather and Jacquards. Glittering crochet flower chokers. Leather Biker and Diamante rope belts. Ball & asymmetrical earrings, Black lace stockings, faux fox stoles, Gold spheres necklaces. Soft bags in leather and jacquards. Voluminous alpaca knit scarves.
Tue, March 3 2020 » Fashion Blog
The street is His stage, Blithe to rules, He takes pride and joy in dressing. All style – no conscious styling. Visceral, louche, feral, fly. A rogue with no received boundaries. “Flips the bird” to convention. Natural sexual power. Enjoys that his decadence dazzles, confronts and brings hither. The raunch of the early 80s underground Punk rock scene – New York Dolls. Stooges, Ramones, Male Magpie. An evolution of our Summer collection.
Urs Lüthi, Karlheinz Weinberger
No rules .. from puffed-up to lithe. Accentuated waists emphasise shoulders. Variations on the trench coat. Punk Perfecto, Ruching and pleating of garments held in place by diamante clasps and brooches. Layering.
Vivid with Dark, Rustic with urbane, Brown, Ochre, Green. Red, Metallic, Khaki. Pastels – from muted to acid. Lilac, peach, orange.
A dark abstraction of perceived Hawaiian floral themes. Animal prints and pictorial prints of Tigers.
Velvet, languid, From dry to luxuriant, Leather, Vinyl, Faux Fox, rustic T\tweeds and worsteds, silk, satin, chiffon, raw denim. Heathered and tweedy knits of varying gauges.
Bright white diamante studding on many garments. Platform boots in tones of leather & gold, High boxing boots, Silk squares knotted as kneckerchiefs. Man-bags, bling brooches and rope belts, ornate belts worn as pendants, Faux fox stoles, faux fur belts.
Sat, February 1 2020 » Fashion Blog
“Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose” Gertrude Stein from her poem ‘Sacred Emily’ 1913. A rose as a person or an emblem of beauty, a power in delicacy. Snapshots of garden flowers in the Dries van Noten garden in October 2018 – their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand-held background evident.
From German Expressionism to the sublimation of the mundane in the study of human attitude and gesture in the work of Pina Bausch. Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance. Pure Lines, range from the manly and austere, feminine and couture, day to evening to and the swaddling to structured.
Evoking 1940′s and 50′s couture, men’s tailoring. Amplified forms, details and lines contrast with the precision of tailoring. All from the freer forms of voluminous quilting to precise and considered garment structures.
A spray of greys, graphite, slate, charcoal, metals, burnished to gleaming, pewter, petrol. Hues of distilled pastels, rose, citrus, powdery mauve, fawn, eau-de-nil, duck eg blue, neon orange, gold, oxblood, imperial yellow.
From diaphanous and veiling to structured and classic. Chiffon, pinstripes, felts, matt to shimmering, faux fur.
Photographs of flowers in Dries’ personal garden, October 2018, their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand held background visible … 50 varieties of Rose, Salvia, 3 varieties of Delphinium, Acer Palmatum, Kniphofia Rooperi, 3 Varieties of Dahlia.
High boots, Lucite Heels, flower photographs, neon faux fur stoles, over size bags.’Big-eye’ sunglasses.
COLLABORATION ON STOCKINGS
Stockings developed with Fogal for this collection exclusive to Dries van Noten in shades of cassis, stone, wild berry and light blue.
Mon, March 4 2019 » Fashion Blog