The street is His stage, Blithe to rules, He takes pride and joy in dressing. All style – no conscious styling. Visceral, louche, feral, fly. A rogue with no received boundaries. “Flips the bird” to convention. Natural sexual power. Enjoys that his decadence dazzles, confronts and brings hither. The raunch of the early 80s underground Punk rock scene – New York Dolls. Stooges, Ramones, Male Magpie. An evolution of our Summer collection.
Urs Lüthi, Karlheinz Weinberger
No rules .. from puffed-up to lithe. Accentuated waists emphasise shoulders. Variations on the trench coat. Punk Perfecto, Ruching and pleating of garments held in place by diamante clasps and brooches. Layering.
Vivid with Dark, Rustic with urbane, Brown, Ochre, Green. Red, Metallic, Khaki. Pastels – from muted to acid. Lilac, peach, orange.
A dark abstraction of perceived Hawaiian floral themes. Animal prints and pictorial prints of Tigers.
Velvet, languid, From dry to luxuriant, Leather, Vinyl, Faux Fox, rustic T\tweeds and worsteds, silk, satin, chiffon, raw denim. Heathered and tweedy knits of varying gauges.
Bright white diamante studding on many garments. Platform boots in tones of leather & gold, High boxing boots, Silk squares knotted as kneckerchiefs. Man-bags, bling brooches and rope belts, ornate belts worn as pendants, Faux fox stoles, faux fur belts.
“Rose is a Rose is a Rose is a Rose” Gertrude Stein from her poem ‘Sacred Emily’ 1913. A rose as a person or an emblem of beauty, a power in delicacy. Snapshots of garden flowers in the Dries van Noten garden in October 2018 – their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand-held background evident.
From German Expressionism to the sublimation of the mundane in the study of human attitude and gesture in the work of Pina Bausch. Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance. Pure Lines, range from the manly and austere, feminine and couture, day to evening to and the swaddling to structured.
Evoking 1940′s and 50′s couture, men’s tailoring. Amplified forms, details and lines contrast with the precision of tailoring. All from the freer forms of voluminous quilting to precise and considered garment structures.
A spray of greys, graphite, slate, charcoal, metals, burnished to gleaming, pewter, petrol. Hues of distilled pastels, rose, citrus, powdery mauve, fawn, eau-de-nil, duck eg blue, neon orange, gold, oxblood, imperial yellow.
From diaphanous and veiling to structured and classic. Chiffon, pinstripes, felts, matt to shimmering, faux fur.
Photographs of flowers in Dries’ personal garden, October 2018, their imperfections and blemishes stand uncorrected, their shadows cast on a hand held background visible … 50 varieties of Rose, Salvia, 3 varieties of Delphinium, Acer Palmatum, Kniphofia Rooperi, 3 Varieties of Dahlia.
High boots, Lucite Heels, flower photographs, neon faux fur stoles, over size bags.’Big-eye’ sunglasses.
COLLABORATION ON STOCKINGS
Stockings developed with Fogal for this collection exclusive to Dries van Noten in shades of cassis, stone, wild berry and light blue.