Thu, June 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
The brutalist premises of the Università Bocconi are invaded by snow, upon which models leave footprints, writing graphic paths as they stride. This engaging situation stems from SNOW, a collection of photographs of frozen landscapes created by artist Thomas Flechtner, who has been actively involved in the creation of the show space, giving a surrounding three-dimensionality to the eternal man vs nature dialogue.
Sartori keeps perfecting the path he has defined for Ermenegildo Zegna since his arrival at the creative helm, devising a modular wardrobe that seamlessly fuses sports and tailoring, indoors and outdoors, keeping the Zegna Couture quest for excellence as a frame. The silhouette is sharp yet soft. Geometric necklines and the carved ‘n curved lapels characterize the upper part of the body. The sense of precise ease is captured in the new ‘one 1/2 breasted’ construction: halfway between single and double breasted, it is used for jackets as well as coats with a nonchalant élan.
Traditional categories are mixed up and reshuffled. The duvet takes the form of a wool anorak, knitwear doubles as outerwear, while matching blousons and trousers are a rapid substitute for the suit. Painstaking intarsia draw details such as pockets directly onto the fabric: an expression of virtuoso pragmatism that carries in the jacquard fabric. Neckties make an unexpected appearance, worn as double-knot scarves. Throughout, adjustable hems give trousers decisive practicality, underlined by the sturdy mountain boots.
Fabrics are precious and supple: cashmere jacquard, compact mohair, brushed alpaca, wool and cotton corduroy. For the first time, even the brighter tones are present on the new Oasi Cashmere, which features an innovative sustainable dyeing process exclusively developed by Lanificio Zegna, where colors are obtained only from natural elements such as flowers, herbs, wood, leaves and roots, reflecting the principles and values of the Oasi Zegna. Also the color palette is inspired by the Oasis’s environment: a mix of neutral tones of edelweiss white, pebble grey, birch beige with notes of vicuña, bulb red, pine green and dashes of crocus purple, chanterelle yellow, azalea orange.
In keeping with the morphing of categories, “XXX”, as symbol of the manual craft of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, is used extensively as a jacquard or a logo on clothing and accessories such as technical leather bags, backpacks and shoes, while PELLE TESSUTATM – the exclusive Zegna woven leather fabric – comes for the first time in herringbone patterns on briefcases and bags.
“I am interested in expanding traditional techniques, creating hybrid shapes that are apt for new uses, getting contemporary function out of traditional craft” says Ermenegildo Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori “We work around sartorial neologisms, which this season I have labeled with another neologism: Snowriting. Formal merges with informal in a sublime snowy scenario.”
Thu, February 1 2018 » Fashion Blog
Fri, June 23 2017 » Fashion Blog
Sketches from Hidden Garden
For his debut Summer collection, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori is clashing innocence and sensual masculinity in an exploration of conscious and sub-conscious fantasies. The linear backdrop of one of the historic courtyards of Milan’s Università Statale is the framework for a futuristic garden with tangerine lawns in a labyrinth of aesthetic compositions. Outdoor life unexpectedly meets the indoor throughout a fresh summery breeze which pervades the fluidity of fabrics and delicate silhouettes enlightened by a blaze of colors.
Couture constructions fly and inflate, moving with a carefree attitude. The interplay of proportions privileges uncommon freedom and ease replacing classic shirts with deconstructed tops in various volumes, doubled tank tops and scoop neck sweaters play with active yet tailored trousers and joggers. The studied assembly of sport-inspired clothing is enriched by oversized handmade pockets, hoods and iconic Triple Stitch logos, synonymous with Couture. Fluid washed silks, Century Cashmere and pure mohair confer concrete weightlessness to the collection, while giro inglese and mesh jacquards, together with perforated and intarsia leather give hints of ethereal substance.
The delicate color palette favors natural shades of walnut, signature Vicuna, geranium, freesia, lotus, cypress and bleached aqua, while optical whites meet unexpected color flashes. Even the accessories indulge in the laid-back pace of the season: technical Triple-stitch sandals, elasticated leather boots and iconic maxi-logo TIZIANO sneakers for footwear immediately available for purchase; and the super-soft evolution of PELLE TESSUTA™ in new, colorful knitted effects for bags, baseball hats and visors.
“To design a forward-looking men’s fashion wardrobe built around fluidity, freshness and color but enriched by the possibility of adding your own hint of personality and style, I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,” said Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori.
The day after the show, twelve of the Couture looks seen on the catwalk will be available to order Made-to-Measure in selected worldwide boutiques, with delivery scheduled within eight-weeks as per the rigorous atelier process. Yet it’s the degree of one-of-a-kind personalization, in which every single garment and accessory from the show is customizable with handmade knotting, painting and embroidery uniquely crafted by Zegna artisans, that reveals the true depth of Ermenegildo Zegna’s commitment to Bespoke. It is here, indeed, that the genuine Zegna values can be seen within every hand-made stitch.
Thu, June 22 2017 » Fashion Blog
Fri, April 15 2016 » Fashion Blog
A cutting-edge Couture Statement.
In the era of images, where everyone seeks to embellish, distinguish and advertise himself, Stefano Pilati defines the Ermenegildo Zegna Fall Winter 2016/17 collection by making the act of embellishment a “classic”.
The Couture line, pinnacle to the Ermenegildo Zegna offering, is now harmoniously blended with the concept of “embellishment”, becoming the manifesto of a unique “Haute Couture for men” proposal: an exceptionally sophisticated wardrobe ruled by fearless style.
The traditional manual tailoring statute of the brand is charmingly translated into an exhibition of patterns, primary inspiration behind the FW16 collection. The most iconic masculine motifs from around the world have been collected and fused into the lushness of the fabrics that keep emphasizing the Haute Couture attitude in an effortless and yet ‘extremely Zegna’ way.
All over the fabrics are embellished with three dimensional hand embroideries realized in Italy, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquards patterns: from super fine Lanificio Zegna wools to recycled polyester.
The result is a truly authentic Couture collection, where the clothes themselves deliver the essence of an intuitive elegance unregulated in its formality, able to emphasize the Zegna identity and, at the same time, to meet the intrinsic Vanitas of secret male fantasies.
Wed, April 13 2016 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 30 2015 » Fashion Blog
For the SS2016 Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection Stefano Pilati juxtaposes the brand’s very own nature of sartorial leadership and heritage in noble fibers with a refreshing expression of masculine identity.
The plethora of fabrics is the undisputed protagonist of the SS16 collection: from the exclusive trans seasonal Double Century Cashmere, super fine Lanificio Zegna wools, silks, a range of cottons to luxurious Japanese textiles.
The attitude is relaxed and sportified but with a delicate elegant summery allure, an accurate balance of fluidity, transparency and lightness : all elements dear to womenswear newly translated this season, to create a new code for a stylish masculine and contemporary personality.
The contrasting volumes reveal unconventional ways of silhouettes: flowing trousers, classics but subtly detailed, evident or hidden, in their construction are paired with nonchalance either to oversized outerwear or elegantly tight fitted, single or double breasted jackets, studied for an innovative and extremely light way of tailoring; or with floating summer coats, multi pocketed gilets, bomber jackets and draped blousons, alongside shirts and overcoats that intersperse the vocabulary of men’s wardrobe icons.
Essential is also the wide range of accessories all made with eco sustainable metal-free leather, following the “mission” Zegna started last season introducing the Eco-leader campaign.
The colorful symphony of micro and macro Madras patterns play with shades of beautiful “non-whites”, as well as mid toned or dark toned looks framed by optical white and total black.
The blend of “new” and “classic”, perfectly embodied by the Broken Suit concept, is the intrinsic overall angle of Stefano Pilati’s design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and wisely reflects Zegna’s heritage and DNA through a distinctive and innovative timeless aesthetic.
Sun, June 28 2015 » Fashion Blog
Mon, January 26 2015 » Fashion Blog
Architecture, space, the city, nature and science, these are the themes visited by Stefano Pilati in past Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collections.
For the Autumn Winter 2015/16 the ‘luxury of choice’ is eco-solidarity.
The eco-sustainability theme is not new to Gruppo Zegna, who have, over generations, been consistent in their commitment to social and environmental activities. Through constant research into the quality of their products with an absolute respect for the environment, the group continues to maintain leadership in the development and production yarn, cloth and garments made from natural fibers.
The uniform of an Eco-leader is the key inspiration of Stefano Pilati for this collection, seen through the use of noble fibers from the house, as well as original archive Harris Tweeds, selected for their authenticity and for their “recyclability”.
A sense of environmental “protection” is perceived not only in the garments and accessories but also in the attitude.
An attitude of ‘action’, in ‘the field’, opens the show, interspersed with the pure poetry of the broken suit in both velvet or corduroy, before taking a more urban turn for the second part.
Utilitarian “eco-leaders” uniforms are translated in jackets with subtly and softly sculpted details, where pockets are pleated or gathered, worn with tailored pants either elasticated at the bottom or conceived multifunctional.
Shoes and boots are covered by protection elements, while hybrid bags are sporty and luxurious.
All to define a new “urban uniform” with a leisure flavor.
Ermenegildo Zegna is industry, business, luxury, but also protection, sensibility and poetry.
Colors: Grey, Charcoal, Smoke, Brown, Hazel Brown, Khaki, Sage, Mint, Salmon, Oxblood, Plum, Black, Dark Blue.
Plants and Trees: Taxus Media Hicksii, Pinus Mugo, Juniperus, Camellia, Azalea, Rhododendron, Aucuba, Fern, Oat Grass; Rhododendron, Cedrus Pendula, Medlar Trees, Cupressuscyparis Leylandii, Cinnamomum Camphora, Cupressus Gold Crest, Viburnum Thymus, Cupressus FilIera , Taxus.
The vegetation is inspired by Oasi Zegna, where the set will be replanted.
Mon, January 26 2015 » Fashion Blog