Born under the creative direction of Rodolfo Paglialunga, the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2015 collection is a coalescence of genders.
Lines are borrowed from sharp masculine and graceful feminine contours. The result is a re-imagined hybrid of the two. The sum of which ebbs and flows delicately between his and hers to find a harmonic balance.
At the heart are mantras which are an extrapolation of Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss photographer and writer from the 1930’s, who embodied an unconventional and androgynous beauty standard. Her persona was a shift toward elegant indifference, a world traveler and civic pioneer willing to go beyond the norm.
Irreverence for definitions is the conception of beauty that inspires the silhouettes. Layered skirts clad in double gabardine with sheer poplin linings. Clean cut jackets of cotton duchesse, silk and nylon. Asymmetric poplin dresses and oversized bermudas in fil coupé.
Binary lines and geometric jacquards enliven fabrics. Sturdy materials handled with thoughtful intricacy anchor compilations. Officiousness found in utilitarian form and function is muted.
The palette draws on opposites, black with white. Ochre tones, earthy and opaque, stand against steely hues. Sandstone and clay are thrust next to greens oblique with gun-metal grays.
Paired with tensile nappa socks, flat or heeled geometric sandals are hewn from leather and tinted crocodile.
Patchwork leather belts are ensconced with geometric motifs, designed to accentuate and underline the waistline. Re-worked and freshly interpreted satchels, in refined leather, strike between wit and practicality.