A sense of languor pervades the new Jil Sander collection.
The precision and clarity the house is known for are seen from another perspective. As filtered through a lens in soft focus, the straight cuts and commanding purism gain a dryly romantic suppleness, a dreamy nonchalance and a suffused sensuality.
Broken by folds, knots and torsions that create an overall feel of sophisticated precariousness, the silhouette has a vertical ease. Plays of slashes and cut-outs redesign the tailored jacket, offering graphic glimpses of what is underneath.
Fluid satin dresses move around the body with a liquid ease. Impalpable lingerie hints run throughout: pantsuits have the slouch of a pajama, draped dresses coil around the bust like superimposed camisoles.
A twisted nappa dress looks both frail and dangerous. The bias cut is featured profusely, creating diagonal movements and floating forms. Sashes are tied onto dresses, suggesting the spontaneous gesture of knotting.
The languid aura is offset by a series of leather pieces of firm yet painterly precision: to-the-knee coats are closed at the waist with vinyl tubes; halters are studded onto slip dresses, creating an engaging play of contrasting, layered textures. The printed leather coat has an offbeat metropolitan hardness.
The color palette is delicate and pale. Tones of white, light blue, sand and charcoal are accented with notes of rust and deep blue. Materials are sensual to the touch: silk satin, washed jacquard silk, silk duchesse, plongée leather.
Accessories are folded straw hats, shoes with graphic buckle motifs, pendant earrings.