Roksanda’s Spring Summer 2020 show will be taking place at the Serpentine Gallery and Pavilion for its third summer season, continuing to merge the world of art, architecture and fashion. Models will pass through and around the pavilion, designed this year by the architect Junya Ishigami. Ishigami has created a delicate slate canopy, which appears to defy gravity, hovering within the natural surroundings of the Serpentine garden.
Adding to the narrative of the season, Roksanda has created a vibrant flame coloured catwalk that criss-crosses through the gallery and over Serpentine’s garden, as a nod to the work of Cristo and Jeanne Claude’s ‘The floating Piers’. Roksanda’s story will unfold within this natural environment that captures her devotion to the exploration of architecture, colour, light movement and the recalibration of the vision of femininity.
The collection draws influence from the work of Mary Weatherford, in particular her body of work incorporating neon rods, which cast industrial light onto fields of colour. The concept of building colour and creating three dimensional form, is developed further through the re- interpretation of art posters that have been layered over time, slowly peeling to reveal what was there before, influencing ideas for print techniques, with double exposed imagery being exploded to a vast scale and subsequently printed and sprayed with colour.
Embodying the effect of a canvas that is still work in progress, these layered prints go through an additional process of being sprayed, painted and then pleated on long drop waist dresses and skirts layered with tailoring.
This season focus is on further exploration of tailoring, seen as relaxed luxurious day dressing, combining melange jersey and wool in soft, oversized elongated shapes that are layered with a more traditional super 130 menswear cloth. Sophisticated muted tones are layered together, added scarves details are integral to jacket necklines.
Soft muted palettes continue with trench coats, that are spliced with contrasting back panels. Utilitarian outerwear in the form of parkas have been slashed in bolder-ways, revealing internal facings and interior colour-blocking, in saturated candy pinks and crimson reds, snapdragon, ivory and flax.
Dramatic, voluminous dress silhouettes are created in cotton and taffeta, with a variety of fine accordion pleats giving an almost corrugated feel. Playing with perceptions of proportion and sculpture, exaggerated pleated collars spill over the shoulders and move freely when the wearer walks. These forms are off set alongside feminine draped jersey dresses, which are lean and sylphlike. Following the contours of the body, flowing from shoulder and hips alike, the body swathed in fine gauge jersey.
Fabrics this season are informed by these artistic processes, a traditional menswear tailoring with slubs mimics the look of an artists canvas, while metallic yarn is woven into taffeta to create a sculptural and crushed effect in gowns. Modernist details and craftsmanship continue in Roksanda’s bag range, this season the ‘Flat bag’ and the ‘box bag’ appear in shades of marron, petrol, stucco and snapdragon and the ‘Louise W’ can be seen in shades of snapdragon and olive.
In collaboration with Malone Souliers, the shoes that accompany the collection are made from soft leathers, toes are pointy and elongated, flat shoes and heals are spliced and colour blocked, and boots are slouchy with fine contrasting ties.
Maple leaf, ochre, arctic, mauve, stucco, flax, marron, candy, crimson, amber, snapdragon, cerulean, petrol.
Technical taffeta, super 130 wool tailoring, crushed metal taffeta, compact cotton outwear, silk satin, fine gauge jersey, double bonded crepe, wool jersey, bonded cupro.
Mon, September 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
For Autumn Winter 2019, Roksanda commissions a bespoke installation to cement her long term relationship with art collective Troika. An alternate reality for the their sculpture ‘Borrowed Light’, both Troika’s innovative space and Roksanda’s clothes appear to address obvious subject matter; colour, volume, texture, movement. However, each explores a deeper narrative, one centred around the concept of perception and duality, indivisible entities and experiences.
Inspiration infiltrates too from architecture, this time from Paul Rudolph’s brutalist masses of textured concrete and car park tower trellis’. With this exploration of tension and perception Roksanda tells her story yet again through the beauty of opposites; strength and softness, beauty and shelter, for an intricate yet booming recalibration of femininity.
This season, tailoring is a tactile combination of wool and cashmere blends, rich ochre quilting and matlassé cut into long and languid coats, slashed strictly at the sides to reveal saturated linings. Relaxed melange jersey appears in luxurious day dressing, including draped buttonless jackets closed simply with fine leather belts that wrap twice around the waist.
Utalitarian outerwear is spliced and colour blocked, combining wools, compact taffeta and cotton, partially quilted, while contrasting zips and metal snaps reveal hidden layers. Quilting plays an important part in the collections blueprints; padded scarves are colour blocked and printed, creating a voluminous yet softer accent to the neat tailored jackets which sit layered beneath.
Dramatic, feminine yet powerful dress silhouettes in richly coloured taffetta’s; heliotrope, tobacco and ochre are used to play on the perception of volume and sculpture. At the other end of Roksanda’s infinite spectrum, pleated silk bias cuts are rendered closer to the body, detailed with loose and softly tied satin bows. Carefully crafted details include tucked and frilled hems, velvet bows and Pierrot collars.
Roksanda’s graphic interpretations of hard concrete structures are either layered with soft projections of her own delicate dancer, or scaled up to create a bold and confident counterpart. Optic white taffeta enhances crisp primary colours is layered with an ultra-light air organza layer to create a soft fluidity. A luxurious oyster duchess base is flip reversed to reveal a hidden yet highly saturated version, while transparent yarns are woven to reflect light and give the perception of pure liquidity. Just as Troika’s colourful strips present themselves on photographic film, Roksanda’s overlap technique mimics a lense out-of-focus, reality blurred, but revealing a life in full yet transparent technicolor.
Heavy as a building block, light as a feather. Embroidery features micro cut beads and organza shapes, crafted around feather print motifs, all pale dyed and organically placed. Dramatic and dreamy, hand dyed ostrich feathers are gathered, trapped in mounds on shoulders, collars and cuffs. They disperse with movement across their garments, blown apart by kinetic air onto earrings and jewellery. Elsewhere, industrial metal tubes are bent into miniature sculptures, hand finished with enamel paint to create additional building blocks; bracelets and necklaces.
Modernist details and craftsmanship continue in Roksanda’s bag range as the new season introduces the ‘Flat bag’ in Peony, Desert Sand, Tobacco, Porcelain and Navy. Roksanda’s cubist ‘box bag’ appears too in Navy, Mikado and Heliotrope.
Shoes in collaboration with Malone Souliers are inspired by a 70’s aesthetic; rubberised leather boots with soft satin legs in cinnamon, tobacco and oyster. Loafers with hand stitched seam details appear in nappa and suede, while bright primary blue, black and navy satin evening slippers are adorned with delicate bows.
Heliotrope, Porcelain, Mikado, Cloud, Lemonade, Cipria, Vermillion, Lime, Pear, Sage, Spearmint, Spruce, Aegean, Tobacco, Orchid, Cinnamon, Rosewood, Ebony, Midnight, Oyster, Azalea, Tumeric
Mattelassé Coating, Wool Alpaca Coating, Technical Duchess, Zibeline Wool Coating, Wool Mouline Jersey, Wool Cashmere Coating, Silk Satins, Silk Twill Organzas, Taffeta.
Sat, February 16 2019 » Fashion Blog
This season, Roksanda explores a body of work from Parisian artist Caroline Denervaud. Using intrinsic, dance like movements and emotion, Caroline makes sweeping strokes across her canvas to portray colour, shape, balance and form. Through this, and other influences from contemporary choreography and Pina Baush’s indefinable genre of dance, Roksanda reveals her unexpected and modern femininity once more.
Cashmere blend tailoring and outerwear in classic camel shades is layered with double faced felted wool and chunky hand knit, contrasting with delicate, tumbled silk satins and tulle. Softly quilted coats and scarves in crisp cotton poplin are reminiscent of a modern traveller. Fringed mohair blankets are wrapped effortlessly around the body and transform into skirts and coats, pinned with natural and cut stones, amethyst, jade and agate, adding organic elegance.
Foulard dresses in contrasting colours inspired by Denervaud’s abstract combinations are detailed with silk necklines and elegant trailing ties. Light, sculptural shapes and silhouettes have Roksanda’s signature voluminous sleeves, fabric softly rolled and tucked by hand to create bounce and movement. Fil coupe and prints are inspired by kinetic and colourful ‘traces’ and line drawings in matt silk organza and fine printed lamé.
A crescendo of embroidered, sheer tulle dresses are inspired the delicacy of Caroline’s paintings, romantic technique, light and transparent. Layers of hand cut tulle shapes, each with it’s own unique technique, merge to create a cloud of volume, craft and colour. Hand dyed organza is ripped into strips and sewn to create soft tassels. Bugle beads secure floating Italian sequins, laser cut and tucked like polka dots between layers. Black cords and yarns resemble Caroline’s mark making, while ribbons and grosgrain dance out of time to mimic paint strokes.
Modernist details continue in Roksanda’s bag range crafted in soft calves leather; New fringed, woven styles and Roksanda’s signature structural resin and new dyed wooden handles in Delphinium, Toffee, Saffron, Amber, Ice White, and Black.
Feminine colour blocked mules and knee high boots in suede, leather and mock croc are in collaboration with Malone Souliers.
Colours; Ochre, Camel, Jade, Marine, Eucalyptus, Brick, Biscotti, Powder Pink, Midnight, Limoncello, Merlot, Pistachio, Dephimium, Rose, Storm Blue, Brick, Powder Pink, Rose, Forest green, Coral, Amber
Fri, February 23 2018 » Fashion Blog
Sat, March 7 2015 » Fashion Blog