Today I’m asking myself: what is the meaning behind putting on a runway show? I want to question why fashion shows still exist as someone who has worked in the industry for more than two decades. I’ve always celebrated and embraced a collaborative spirit which remains a significant motivation for me this season. Rather than putting together my SS20 collection autonomously, I have incorporated the creations of other independent artists whose talents, stories and aesthetics have touched me. I want to give back what I have received as we simply cannot proceed without being generous, caring or conscious of the world that surrounds us.
You will see the jewellery designs of Marla Aaron whose work I immediately fell in love with. Her jewellery evokes that disruptive punk attitude mixed with extremely refined details through re- imagining the “lock”. I’m delighted to have men in the show again this season, each wearing sandals by K.JACQUES. The designs remind me of the South of France; they have a simplicity yet capture a careful savoir-faire that compliments the craftsmanship of my own designs. All of the hats on the runway come from ReHats – a small company based in Berlin. I love the products because they are recycled, creating something special out of materials that would otherwise end up as waste.
Off the runway, this season is a big moment for me personally as we launch a more sustainable ‘factory- to-retail’ hanger in collaboration with Arch & Hook and with the support of the British Fashion Council. The Arch & Hook BLUE® model is the first 100% recycled and fully circular hanger made from ocean plastics, providing an eco-friendly version to the billions of garment hangers usually sent to landfill after that apparel distribution process. Crucially the BLUE® hanger is recyclable and can be collected for re- use or re-manufacture into hangers over and over again.
As a company we have been supporting Maggie’s Centres over the last couple of years, inspired by the work the charity does with cancer patients across the country. Our shoe stock used for runway shows will raise money in a special sale at my headquarters in London, with 100% of takings going to the charity. The ethos is giving back; caring.
I’m very attracted to simplicity this season; showing less about what you own, perhaps even about who you are. When you pair a top with a trouser, there’s an elegance. That attitude continues through textural eveningwear; new volumes and a subtle mixing of fabrics; the American sportswear-inspired mood of sequin skirts; the workwear appeal of check suits; the double pleating on wide-legged trousers.
A designer should define silhouettes not just clothes: this season’s silhouette is the evolution and continuation of my work over the years. By incorporating tailoring and craftsmanship into my collections, I’m inviting you to play with the silhouette as a way to convey personal style. Talking about style, this collection takes inspiration from that 80s era in New York during the financial crack when the city almost went bankrupt. During those moments, we reinvent and define ourselves, changing fears into something positive that in turn brings newness. What is luxury in times of crisis? It’s style.
The charity shoe sale will take place on 3rd October 2019 at Roland Mouret, 8 Carlos Place, W1. Each pair of shoes will cost £40 with 100% of takings going to Maggie’s Centres.
Mon, September 23 2019 » Fashion Blog
Roland Mouret© Copyright 2019
“In the last 20 years we all have become prisoners of sizing and gender, and I see this collection as a way to free ourselves, by exploring diversity and liberating our style. I really want to challenge the way we wear clothes and reduce the way we insatiably consume. To use clothes in a more responsible way and limit the single-use pieces in our wardrobes.
I think back to when I was 18 years old and exploring my identity: I would find clothes in flea markets that were often too big, but I’d make them work. I learnt how to define myself through styling the pieces I loved. You see a jacket. It’s not your gender and it’s not your size. But you like it, so who is to say that you shouldn’t wear it?
‘Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood’, the clothes aren’t oversized – they’re just bigger. And just to clarify I’m not introducing a new category- I’m using this opportunity to share my approach to redefining an identity. It’s fun. It’s a moment of expression.” – Roland Mouret
Roland Mouret offers a highly personal and unique experience for the Autumn Winter 2019 collection, inspired by Lee Miller.
Lee Miller, whose journey from model, to fashion photographer and ultimately World War II reportage photographer, is an icon of the 20th century. She refused to be defined by gender, age or beauty. Mouret has drawn inspiration from her resilience and enthusiasm for her creative career and from her indomitable spirit during a period of trauma, recession and uncertainty.
Mon, February 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Fri, September 28 2018 » Fashion Blog
Roland Mouret cites Irvin Kershner’s 1970s cult film ‘The Eyes of Laura Mars’ as the muse for his AW18 collection, portraying a type of voyeurism; a male gaze towards a modern woman, in control of her own image. The film’s production design is pure and ecstatic, the film stylish and fabulous, awash with paradoxes.
This sweeping influence translates into an intense collection full of seemingly strong contradictions, featuring baroque jacquard, lurex georgette and velvet corduroy. The dynamic variation throughout explores the hard, the soft, the strong masculine and reaffirmation of the strong feminine; a mature femininity that is rich in simplicity.
Roland reintroduces tailoring and the technicality explored in his early career, with orchestrations of volume and structure which sees outerwear in patent leather, alpaca and Prince of Wales check. Single and double-breasted jackets, trench coats and capes evolve with exposed stitching, frayed hems and oversized lapels.
Stepping away from his signature dress, Roland manipulates and uses his draping technique to create, as he coins it a ‘sexy, luxury day dress’ – a looser, A-line silhouette that sees soft fabric falling on the body. The flowing dresses are offset with heavy bomber style jackets and rich, varying textures, extolling the complexity of the collection.
Sheer knits add a light and delicateness to the offering, finished with ruffled collars, the pieces lending themselves to the dynamic duality of the collection. Further accessories of lace socks paired with sandals pay a playful homage to the pages of a 1970s Playboy Magazine and to the Fashion photographer’s work within the film, a nod perhaps too, to Roland’s mantra of “…we all dress to undress”.
His collections ever evolving, the designer listens to women. Roland Mouret proves that there is practicality in femininity, and femininity is a woman’s greatest power.
Fri, February 23 2018 » Fashion Blog