ELEVATION IN CONTINUATION
Glenn Martens unveils this season a more sophisticated Y/PROJECT woman while still remaining true to the twisted aesthetic language he has developed as a signature. Borrowing from eclectic references, from the Belle Époque to 2020, including the latent Edwardian feel of the collection, the designer creates his own semantic universe where versatility is the law.
The new silhouette sculpted by high waisted pants with a sharp V cut at the front is taken further and applied to a variation of pieces such as evening dresses with built-in exaggerated hips, tailored suits with bodysuit blazers revealing skin in a delicate way or the archetypal blue jeans, adding charisma and sexiness to the classics of feminine elegance.
A pair of revealing trousers with an integrated G-string is the ultimate showstopper. The push-up bra makes a comeback and is incorporated into dresses, knits, or even bomber jackets. The wrapped pieces introduced last season – prolonged by long straps tied around the waist – are carried on: tops, pants and skirts wind around the silhouettes, blurring their own boundaries.
Most looks convey an infinity feel, as if they had no beginning and no end, no top or bottom. This strong design concept is purified and made more readable. The swirling movement of dresses, skirts or polo shirts, creates a flattering drapé effect.
In a playful take on fashion, layers of tulle, lace, ruffles, fringes and colorful satin stripes are multiplied, superimposed and styled in manifold ways. Blazer dresses are highlighted with layers of tulle, adding fluidity to classic tailored jackets and softening their strict lines.
Each piece allows full expression of individuality. The signature pop-up jackets are taken to their maximum potential, with new excrescences giving a 3D feel to each piece. Contrasting piping underlines their multi-dimensional volume.
The classic heeled pumps are embellished with chains and pearl necklaces, and are proposed in a ruffle- elastic version. Renowned for his architectural approach to fashion and his ability to create ultra desirable must-have pieces, Glenn Martens masters crafting bold design concepts while maintaining an elegant wearability.
The Y/PROJECT FEMME AW20 collection shows the evolution of the Paris-based label to a higher level of sophistication and addresses a great diversity of women.
Stylism: Robbie Spencer
GLENN MARTENS DELIVERS A PLAYFUL STATEMENT ON FASHION
Inviting guests to take a dive into joyful childhood memories, Y/PROJECT hosted its HOMME AW20 show in a giant ballon-filled playground. Glenn Martens creates this season a show with an immersive atmosphere that conveys the brand’s tongue-in-cheek wit.
As soon as the show begins, the scenography immediately comes together with the collection in a celebration of individuality, to the pace of a fanfare march. The first looks, men’s suiting turned inside out with exaggerated seams and panels of colorful satin wrapped in tulle, set the tone of a joyful and prolific collection.
This visual impact is instantly amplified by another: a plunging bodysuit over high waisted pants with a sharp V cut at the front. Instead of the usual snap fastener, this bodysuit is prolonged by long straps tied around the waist. The tying concept is developed on shirts and tank tops but also with skirts and pants, translating classic pieces in a more playful language. Each piece is an experience and a mean of personal expression.
The accessory line features mind-bending pieces, always exploring the limits of construction. Glenn Martens proposes this season a new sailor knot-shaped bag, as well as a reversible, folding logo tote bag with a cashmere print that can be used as scarf too. The now iconic accordion bag is now developed as a more everyday tote version as well. Bold earrings made of chiseled and curved metallic pieces are reminiscent of Art Déco sculptures.
The brand’s creative vocabulary is continued this season in new variations: the coats’ lapels split in two create a pop-up effect, a shoulder clip blurs the structure of classic pieces, sweaters are doubled and mohair knit pieces are slashed. 3D seams on the front panel of pants are a reinterpretation of pieces seen years ago on the Y/PROJECT runway.
The last segment of the show reveals an exclusive collaboration with Canada Goose. The Parisian label is partnering with the Toronto outerwear expert on a six piece capsule collection, including asymmetric parkas, sweaters and reversible beanies. Re-imagining Canada Goose’s most iconic styles, this collaboration mixes playful proportions with functional outerwear to deliver the pinnacle of performance luxury.
In a new iteration of Y/PROJECT’s twisted couture, Glenn Martens offers an effusion of deconstructed shapes, colors, and textures. In a pure Y/PROJECT fashion, this collection delivers a masterful statement on versatility and individuality.