This season Les Hommes is about a very personal and emotional collection. An intimate journey far closer to home, to their homeland Belgium and more specific, to their home-city of Antwerp. A collection full of references to their experiences. The creative duo categorized three pillars that identify their country and city. The national sport cycling, with cuts, shapes, patterns and colours of vintage cyclists knit.
The Academy OF Antwerp experience: constructing and deconstructing that leads to the creations of unique hybrids. Music, the techno scene of the ’90 that was very influential throughout Europe. All these iconic elements are infused in a collection that talks about “contemporary elegant ravers” with an “ACID” touch.
The gentleman’s tailored jacket meets the bomber jacket, creating a unique piece. Pinstripes and the structure of a kway, lined in silver. Intimate Techno Tailoring: design for techno music lovers. Oversized jackets and trench coats. Laid-back tailoring. Classic fabrics, such as mohair and cool wool, as well as nylon and plastic fibres.
Organza and leather made to look like crumpled paper in reflective gold. Acid magenta, acid yellow, acid green, shocking pink and International Klein Blue. All combined with the more traditional colours in tailoring: blue, navy and black. Laced Derby shoes with contrasting or discrete tone-on-tone rubber trim. The Dominator, the trainer. A must.
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Tags: LES HOMMES, LES HOMMES SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020
Wed, June 19 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Versace © Copyright 2019
The Versace Men’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection is a celebration of contemporary masculinity. Iconic house codes, colorful prints, and ironic nuances are combined with new tailoring silhouettes in signature Versace style. The personal journey of a young man, coming of age and finding his confidence, is subtly referenced throughout the collection. Status symbol race cars and intentionally oversized silhouettes evoke the spirit of adolescence. The Versace man is free to self-express with no limitations.
The power suit is revisited through innovative silhouettes, fabrics and playful hardware accents that boast empowering messages. Double-breasted jackets pay homage to the brand’s DNA, with half the garment in solid black contrasting against Prince of Wales fabric. Animalier, laminated textures, and lurex separates juxtapose formalwear, imposing a new energy.
Fringed leather outerwear, motorcycle vests and dark denim are introduced as wardrobe essentials and are layered over new prints. Versace iconography is embraced through a nod to 1990s culture, including inspiration from Prodigy, the British band accredited to the rave moment. Medusa Biggie eyewear is depicted in pop-art motifs and placed on silk shirts and sweatpants. Emblematic Versace fragrances and vintage advertising of the mythological character Narcissus are featured on denim pieces.
The brand’s most recognizable elements are reinterpreted in saturated color. An archive print featuring the Roman god, Bacchus is hand-painted by artist and friend of the House, Andy Dixon. Opulent vases and a race car motif from Dixon’s work have been developed into seasonal patterns and fabrications. Silk shirts, knitwear, and light metallic separates feature the collaboration between Versace and the artist.
For Spring-Summer 2020, Versace menswear takes a sharp turn for the self-assured. Stereotypes of masculine character are challenged through tailoring, fabric and print – an interpretation of confidence through Versace’s maximalist style.
“For this collection, I wanted to explore the elements that empower a man. It’s definitely the confidence, the freedom and desire to express himself without hesitation.”
Donatella Versace
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Tags: SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, VERSACE, VERSACE SS 2020
Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Tue, June 18 2019 » Fashion Blog
Ermenegildo Zegna © Copyright 2019
# UseTheExisting
An immense industrial building in despair is the site for the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX show. The runway unfolds below extremely high ceilings that once hosted Area Falck: a monument to steely modernity that over the years slowly turned into a metropolitan wasteland. The dismissed area, however, will soon be re-qualified by Milanosesto into a hub for health and science, along with green and residential areas, gaining a new continuity with the city and a new meaning, reverting from waste to opportunity. As such, it will be included again in the metropolitan fabric, including people within it. It is the same philosophy Zegna is applying to textile resources, with the commitment to continue to create new fabrics from existing ones, and the same drive Zegna applies to re-thinking tailoring for the modern world. #UseTheExisting is the byword.
“It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly - says Zegna’s Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori - I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabric-making, to the exquisite technicality of tailoring to the highly communicative aspect of show-making. Everything is connected, and everything conveys the same idea: we do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation”.
A sharp industrial sensibility comes to the fore this season, channeled by the pragmatic suits composed of blousons, shirts or polo-shirts worn with matching trousers. Sartori sticks to an agenda rooted in tailoring’s essence, morphing tradition into something suited to the pace of a hyper connected, global generation. The silhouette is neat: boxy blousons, voluminous coats, sleek three-button blazers and slim one-button jackets with 3D patch pockets are paired with lean yet soft trousers or fuller ones. Generous pockets migrate from the sportier items onto tailored ones while tailored details move to sport pieces, suggesting a mix of categories that expands the possibilities of use.
Knits are building blocks that increase the modularity of modern dressing. Firm yet extremely light fabrics – wools, technical silks, – enhance the precision of the lines and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction, with flattened crinkles, photoprints of graphic assemblages and progressive stripe patterns giving rhythm to the surfaces. Macro chiné motifs have a painterly feel, mineral dyes add depth to denim.
The #UseTheExisting mindset is a brand’s commitment to use more and more wool and technical fabrics developed by the Zegna textile division with innovative processes from pre-existing sources. The “Achill” suit, entirely made with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill farm, discarded during the process of suit making and then remixed and rewoven, fully closes the circle of traceability and sustainability. In keeping with the functional mood, accessories are pragmatic: bold-soled printed boots or derbies; signature Claudio sneakers; wearable notebooks and pouches in small geometric shapes.
The sense of industrial elegance is rounded by the mix of mineral hues of cement, steel, carbon and matt black with earthy tones of brass, rust, red blaze, sand and matt gold and light notes of nude, aqua, leaf green, teal and oxidized copper.
Transformation comes to the fore as just another aspect of inclusiveness: a Zegna pillar through and through.
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Tags: ERMENEGILDO SEGNA SS 2020, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020
Mon, June 17 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, June 15 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, June 15 2019 » Fashion Blog
Pum! is Marco de Vincenzo’s first men collection, a debut designed and developed through his life’s PUM!. «I had in mind a real man, who alternates between moderation and excess, strictness and kryptonite. An everyday superhero». Here he is.
Sparks of light, optical and material impressions: in his basic wardrobe everything has movement and three-dimensionality.
Pleated tulle paired with cool wool, drilled vinyl, coated boucle and lacquered macrame, heat adhesive glittery patches. Marco de Vincenzo likes to shape matter from scratch.
«To me this is the sense of imagination: handling, shaping, transforming suggestions into tactile visions».
The small plant in a hand inside a vase that shines, as a symbol of protection and rebirth, it conveys the bond that men have with the earth.
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Tags: MARCO DE VINCENZO, MARCO DE VINCENZO SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2020
Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
HOMECOMING
In the first men’s collection under the creative direction of Paul Andrew, Florence comes alive with the energy of a multicultural, multigenerational vision for the Ferragamo man. The city’s profound artistic, intellectual and economic traditions, the neighboring mills, factories and artisans, the famed Fountain of Neptune recently restored by Ferragamo — all serve as the rich ingredients of a new aesthetic direction, the style code for a new era. At once gloriously ancient and stunningly modern, Florence is the fire in the eye of Ferragamo, a place with which it is and shall always be synonymous.
Traditional menswear codes encounter more youthful notions of style in this collection, such that a lightweight technical parka takes the place of a classic blazer, the five-pocket jean is flared and in leather, the trouser is full throughout the leg and long, and the tailored jacket is rendered as utilitarian sportswear. Masculinity is communicated with a freedom no longer constrained by inflexible gender norms.
Colour, raw material and innovative craft hold information and convey culture in Paul Andrew’s Ferragamo. A broad palette of earth tones and natural shades is illuminated with saturated moments of candy pink, luminous green and deep night. Nappa leather bonded with cotton jersey, technical linen gabardine, ripstop cotton nylon, wool mohair, deerskin and sueded calfskin comprise an essential catalog of researched fabrics and skins across ready-to-wear and leather goods.
Inspired by archival shoe designs and local Tuscan artisans, intricate weaving techniques and raffia embroideries appear in passages of womenswear, connecting the men’s universe with the women’s, affirming the fundamental role of craftsmanship as the origin and beating heart of the house.
The marriage of high-craft and high-tech, a signature concept in Andrew‘s vision for Ferragamo, is articulated here in a split-platform espadrille, an interchangeable laced suede sandal-boot inspired by Salvatore’s 1951 ‘Kimo’ style, and a leather and rubber sneaker conceived with bench-made savoir faire. Bags and small leather goods project the luxury of impeccable skins and unadorned utility.
Envisioned by Paul Andrew, the Ferragamo man has lived and loved, won and lost, and has the wisdom and dimension that comes only with experience. His identity can be celebrated on the podium, but it does not rely upon showcase to exist. Indeed, he is uninterested in being discovered – he has already found himself.
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Tags: Salvatore Ferragamo, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SS 2020, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2020
Fri, June 14 2019 » Fashion Blog
Wed, June 12 2019 » Fashion Blog
