Innovation comes from the past, and the future recognizes tradition. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s stylistic approach to the Valentino menswear collection expresses a fusion of contrasts. Due to its authenticity and sartorial spirit, Florence is the setting for this line.
Designend as a new element used in the construction of an ideal wardrobe, the Spring/Summer 2013 collection is edgy and energizing. The mental landscape is the same: archetypical menswear. Perspectives and tools for interpretation have evolved.
By smoothly blending styles and solutions, pragmatic items – from the field jacket and trench coat to the parker and denim trucker jacket – are restyled, morphing sports and Couture. Its DNA is manipulated from within. Techniques are combined to create new textures, and lightness find structure.
The silhouette is distinct: more volume al the back creates a cool Couture look. Here, more is more: a combination of several materials, textures and colors defines the garments. Opaque layering and rubberized intaglio details create camouflage patterns on the trench coat.
The skinny jacket with drop sleeve is a geometric collection of heat-bonded and intarsia elements. The back of the parka is covered with constructive details. The contrast of weight and lightness is used to an advantage: padding and fiber become functional elements or disappear inside bonded fabric. Sleek, spare design creates shapes with wonderful pure lines: plain pea coats, white shirts with the basic look of a polo shirts, and sleek, clean suits. Knitwear has a compact texture.
Crisp materials such as natté nylon, wool/silk barathea, wool/nylon blends, dry cotton, Japanese denim, leather and treated linen – balance luxury and performance. The color palette is pragmatic, but it also breaks out of the mold: masculine army green, camel, blue, black, gray and ivory are accented with splashes of rust, red, and acid green.
The search for edginess can also be found in accessories such as sleek camouflage laced shoes and running shoes made of a combination of different materials.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have a clear and concise fashion perspective: changing the structure and therefore the use of a garment is the sartorial equivalent of liquid modernity.
Special thanks to Alexis Giannotti Photographer