MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC AUTUMN/WINTER 2013-14 FASHION SHOW LIVE STREAMING – 16TH FEBRUARY 5PM LONDON
Fri, February 15 2013 » Fashion Blog
Les Hommes Autumn/Winter 2013 collection starts with a journey, entering a black cube which both conceals and celebrates the majesty of Palazzo Serbelloni. Revival of an unforgettable moment of extreme beauty.
The memory goes to the absolute aesthetics of Luchino Visconti’s The Damned with the impeccable interpretations of Dirk Bogarde and Helmut Berger. The masterpiece celebrating the dissolution of an epoch and the shatter of its charm.
This is the starting point of a collection that, without any sign of nostalgia, stresses the perfection climax right before its collapse and tries to convey it to our time and to the radical revolutions we are currently undergoing.
The atmosphere is somber, romantic and celebratory, while dark colours and lavish silk and velvet communicate exquisite luxury. The focus is on tailoring. The jackets are a hybrid, born from illusory double-breasted blazers and field jacket-tuxedos.
When black and white graphic motifs, diamond patterns and rose tapestry give life to prints and fabrics, the reference to Deco design is tangible, as if the best of a Berlin house interior from the Thirties would become a suit.
The heart of the inspiration is an oxymoron, a blend of opposite terms: military and delicate. Uniforms become gentle, soft and fluid and invade this celebrative field as a lulling march.
The final step of an ascending staircase that encourages one to dress venturing in overlaying to celebrate the peak of male elegance.
Thu, February 14 2013 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 12 2013 » Fashion Blog
A knight, a Poet, an Artist living his time: this is the new man according to Andrea Incontri. A perfect balance between the strength of dignity and a kind soul, seeking beauty.
A collection of Contemporary Classics, the natural seduction of pure design where today’s living can’t be without old times’ values.
Neutral and soft colours go together with compact strong hues: camel and dark brown, black and white or Donegal tweed. A colour palette melting in frescoes-like prints, inspired by Pisanello masterpieces painted in Mantua, the designer’s hometown.
It’s an esthetic to be found in proud and talented painters: a manly man, ancient and powerful, always searching for pure and warm fabrics, decided volumes and new cuts. Soft velvety wool, crisp tweed, double jersey and a rubbered canvas that changes with use. Touch and feel is a favourite this season, so no surprise in finding original embroideries on shirts, developed in different geometric textures with a 3D vibe to it.
Menswear essentials are developed through out this Progetto Sartoriale by Andrea Incontri, like not-to-miss pieces in every gentleman’s wardrobe. Single or double breast jackets, short bomber jackets and oversize coats. The cardigan turns into an armour through special film covering plain canvas.
A vision mixing together different elements: the attention is on big lepels, on fading prints, on long scarves to protect from cold, on shirts muted in painter’s working robes – with a special pocket for the pencil – over long winter underpants. A new menswear concept.
Accessories from bags to shoes are a must have in this signature collection: soft backpacks, big geometric tote bags, leather ipad cases, flat bidimensional zipped envelopes, portfolio like bags. The italian soft loafer is handstiched, boots have precise raw edges and the classic shoe has stripes in contrasting colours.
Tue, February 12 2013 » Fashion Blog
STYLE FOR CHANGE WITH NEW WINTER SILKS AND URBAN PINSTRIPES
Fashion can boast a visionary vein that often plants the seed of change and evolution. And in this era of transition, the Zegna FW 2013 collection imagines for the future a young world immersed in the tides o epochal change.
A groundbreaking energy pulsates throughout the closet, emerging here and there, from the graphic lines of impeccable pinstripes to the “sportified” accents infused into the more formal garments.
The palette is filled with shades of grey that conjure images of a new industrial revolution: asphalt, steel, cement and granite, brightened up with flashes of white and deep green.
Nuances that the Zegna laboratory, always at the vanguard, declined in fabrics that look to the future and epitomized by the Winter ZegnaSilk, a carded silk worked with the cashmere technology on beaver cloths and enriched with Thirties prints and new mélanges.
The design approach is rational: all that is meaningful from the past, both recent and remote, is revisited to create an elegance luxurious as always but also practical and without trappings.
Classically cut coats, made from feather-light spazzolino, the prized alpaca fabric launched by Agnona in the Seventies, are worn over double-breasted and elongated suits, immaculate shirts with refined collars and matching cummerbunds that raise the waistline.
And still, a formality contaminated by a sportier attitude that brings to life jackets and outerwear with sharp architectural proportions in compact fabrics that display a discreet aggressive side via flashes of metal hardware.
Blouson jackets in silk knit or sheared mink and cropped deerskin anoraks, bonded with wool or spazzolino, are worn loosely as sweatshirts. The knitwear is sober, favoring turtlenecks, gilets and cardigans with mixes of micro fantasies and sumptuous “granite effect” cashmere bouclé. Garments that are worn over padded fencer bodices in wool, napa and silk, to surprising effect.
The accessories are ideal for brief trips that are part of the new lifestyle and feature a bold character thanks to compact shaped and the reiteration of the bit in bicolor metal. The solid tapered points shoes are made with hand polished calfskin just like the bags, an array spanning travel bags, hold-alls and computer bags reinforced by handmade piping and featuring handles and pockets on the inside. The glasses have transparent frames, a metal soul and smoky lenses.
Mon, February 11 2013 » Fashion Blog
ANGRY YOUNG MEN
Ennio Capasa, designer:
” Anger. A global feeling, dissacrating, prelude to change, an energy I feel pulse through today’s youth. At the end of 50′s this feeling became a shore towards rebellion changing men’s costumes and attitudes. From them on progressing through the 60′s and 70′s, the younger generation repossesses themselves and the world for an instant. I hope it happens again. Soon. Today. Rock and roll! “
60′s tailoring, sartorial construction and military reference. Line cut felt and Japanese technical fabrics, maxi lengths, leather biker.
Seasonal must: bikers combined with maxi knitted cardigans, turtle-neck knits in cachemire, jaquard and angora wool.
Two fits: skinny and cropped jogging.
Matched fabrics, “fur effect” and cloth. Cloth and jersey, canvas and lamè. Skinny corded velvet, mixed mohair. Wool with retrò satin armours.
Ice, electric blue, midnight blue, black.
Pochette with zipped compartments, calf leather business bag and maxi bag. Buffed veal leather Beatle boots, laced boots, military boots. David Bowie’s fedora in lapin felt.
Sat, February 9 2013 » Fashion Blog
Fri, February 8 2013 » Fashion Blog
“What is contemporary style if not a fusion of feelings, places and memories? Corneliani was founded in Mantua over 50 years ago, and this town steeped in art and culture has been a source of inspiration for the whole collection,” explains Sergio Corneliani, the company’s creative director. “Not least the staging by Marzia Migliora, an extraordinary artist who has brought a contemporary twist to the misty landscapes and leaden skies of our autumn seasons. The landscape appears in the background of Andrea Mantegna’s 1462 painting, now on display in the Prado. In the painting one can make out the San Giorgio bridge, which crosses the lagoon around Mantua; to the sides there is an expanse of water lilies, which the artist has reinterpreted with an installation of over 400 leaves made from lead sheet. Her staging symbolises perfectly the link between the past and the present both in art and fashion. After all, today we simply cannot do without the tailored cut of elegant Italian style, the comfort of sportswear, technological fabrics and that touch of flamboyance which makes each look individual. To me, this is fashion fusion.”
And now to the collection: shapes are pared down to the max in the tailored suits, with tapered trousers and soft, light, longer jackets. Colours range from anthracite grey to camel and neutrals to garnet red, a homage to Renaissance decoration. The coats in soft, snug alpaca are decidedly over- sized. Comfortable sportswear is the inspiration for the pea jackets, which feature a double revers in contrasting materials: leather and suede, nappa and bouclé jersey.
Even the classic biker jacket is reworked with a stylish twist and finished off with suede trimming.
In the panel-structured jackets there are plays on inserts and contrasting fabrics.
The strength of the collection lies in knitwear, a symbol of tradition and technological innovation. It is decorated with an interlinked rings motif inspired by the frescoes of the “Bridal Chamber” in Mantua’s Ducal Palace, hand-embroidered, coloured or embellished with ultra-light leather laces. High-tech performance is the byword for the needle-felted pullovers, which blend wool and nappa to create sophisticated geometrical inlays.
The collection’s must-have item is a knitted jacket for both daytime and the evening, cinched at the waist and inspired by a cosy smoking jacket, redesigned here with a sophisticated new look.
For evenings, a black nappa and alpaca blazer is perfect for dandies who never take themselves too seriously!
Thu, February 7 2013 » Fashion Blog
This fall, the iconic rebels of springs make way for a new generation of American heroes – the visionaries. The moment is modern. The future belongs to the forward-thinking and all eyes are on the men at the front of the pack.
For F/W 2013, Creative Director Bernardo Rojo channels the energy of the determined daredevils and enterprising leaders who put a man on the moon. Capturing the spirit of the 60′s, a decade that produced the futuristic white curves of the TWA Flight Center and the metallic spacesuits of the Apollo Missions amidst a rich night sky – this season offers a color palette that combines deep dark hues whit incandescent accents. Outwear plays whit volume and technology meets textiles in tailored suits, ushering in a new era of American menswear.
The next frontier in near and it’s the visionaries who will claim it. The men whit the keenest foresight and the bravery to leap where others would step. This is the season for innovation.
Wed, February 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
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