JIL SANDER FALL WINTER 2015-16 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Orderly disorder. Geometry as rhythm, pattern, movement. Rodolfo Paglialunga works around an idea of broken precision for the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Focusing on timeless staples, he creates an open esthetic code that can be further, individually interpreted.

The silhouette is vertical and tall, with a gentle slouch. Outfits come together jaggedly, with remarkable nonchalance. Instinct guides effortless gestures. The fur coat is casually thrown over satin slacks and a pullover. Tailored jackets draw a lean long line which ends in cropped trouser-skirts. The liquid belted coats have the sophisticated flow of a robe. Tunics are worn over pants.

The neck is always covered by cut-out turtleneck collars, highlighted by a ruche, creating a grammar of shy seduction. The constant tension of straight lines and diagonals is visually engaging. It generates movement: double-breasted closures, outsized mannish checks that draw lines and grids on tailored pieces.

Geometries run rhythmically, further breaking the apparent order: bold stripes and lines on tops and knitted pieces, taped deconstructed checks on coats. Brushed carpet textures and knit robe de chambre cardigans with double-face intarsia provide the displaced warmth of elegant domesticity.

Materials are firm and precious: double-faced cashmere, textured wools, satin. The color palette is proper, with summery ruptures: tones of blue, dark green, white and black are interspersed with dashes of pale pink, yellow, turquoise.

Accessories strengthen the idea of complex precision. Stack-heel lace-ups and boots are constructivist sums of suede, leather, brushed calf. Geometric patterns swarm on boots, matching the outfits. Shoulder bags are functional, the neatness of the design highlighted by bold lining contrasts.