“There is so much of the world that we don’t actually perceive and I wanted to explore this concept for the new season. As in architecture, every detail, both inside and out, was carefully calculated to craft the perfect balance between practicality and style.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For FW16, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take center stage. Luxurious and studied elements come together for a seemingly minimalist look as shapes, materials and colors are combined in unique and purposeful ways.
Tartan and checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down for a contemporary take on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to an extremely soft wool and alpaca blend whose longhaired nish adds a layer of unique texture to a menswear classic.
Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in the form of heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. An extremely compact and extremely smooth cotton velvet makes appearances in select coats and aviator jackets. Pony hair is also a noteworthy new addition, in various colors and mixed with leather to create textural distinctions.
The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air, dominated by blacks, blues, browns and grays and illuminated by bursts of vibrant shades like brick, peach, burgundy and mustard yellow. Ultra-slim scarves are knotted as ties while long leather and wool gloves are a natural continuation of sleeves. Rugged loafers and work boots with buckles and oversized travel bags and smooth padded backpacks with tumbled leather straps complete the accessory selection.
Shirt collars are in contrast; suits feature an updated closure with one visible button and two hidden ones; belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats, which are rendered even more practical by double pockets on each side that blend style and utility.
Sat, May 21 2016 » Fashion Blog
“I still remember the sense of wonder I felt when experiencing that simple magic of a kaleidoscope – countless pieces that would shift, rotate and converge, creating infinite images and juxtapositions though constant in their beauty as a whole. Through the kaleidoscope, I see the Canali man, suspended in the timeless atmosphere of an everlasting Mediterranean Summer.” (Andrea Pompilio)
For SS16, Canali presents a novel vision of Summertime icons as colors, fabrics, styles and silhouettes come together in countless combinations to form a dynamic and elegant tableau of looks for the new season. Colors travel decisively across a natural palette that adds impactful accents throughout the collection. Blues progress from sky to aquamarine, mixing with warm earth tones of ochre, caramel and burgundy, illuminated by flashes of deep sea greens.
Seasonal fabrics take on new aesthetics, boasting luxurious compositions and innovative effects. Quintessentially casual denim is presented in a wool-linen blend while a wool-silk-linen and premium cotton are given a velvety terry finish, forming distinctive textures that truly evoke the spirit of Summer. Silk organza, kid leather and nubuck lend an exceptionally soft hand to outerwear and shoes.
Lightweight tailoring and leisurewear essentials with unexpected (and sometimes hidden) details are key. Trench coats and jackets are cut in pure silk organza, whose transparency allows a glimpse of the distinctive ‘double layer’ Egyptian cotton shirting beneath. Two-button jackets feature particularly placed bellows – a leitmotif of the collection – on the back and on the front patch pockets, which extend down to the bottom hem.
Clean-cut briefcases are offset by unstructured backpacks and playful hand-crafted lariat key-holders, all embellished with a graphic contrasting stripe whose optical impact adds a touch of whimsical originality. Hand-finished shaded calfskin loafers and lace-ups in a myriad of hues set the tone while aubergine crocodile-skin brogues with hybrid espadrille/rubber ridged soles make a statement.
The proportions are subtly shifted and softened, creating a fresh and relaxed silhouette. Destructured jackets feature clean, graceful lines and pants are more relaxed at the reverse-pleated waist and thighs, tapering towards the bottom to a contemporary ankle-length crop.
Thu, October 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
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Milan in the 1950s – a city of optimism and dynamism where bold, new constructions rise alongside the muted palazzi of the past. A city of lines: power lines and tram tracks; scaffolding and crossroads; all illuminated by the intense, flickering neon of billboard advertisements. A city of style: impeccably dressed uomini d’affari brush tailored shoulders with the youth in their cropped jackets and rolled up pants.
Andrea Pompilio (Creative Consultant, Canali): “Milan in those years was something unique. A perfect mix of the precision of the past and an explosive sense of creativity, a mixture of practicality and imagination tempered by a typically Italian sense of elegance.”
The Canali FW15 collection begins with this vision – building a bridge between tradition and modernity, where the tailoring expertise and exquisite materials that have been a hallmark of the brand since its foundation are applied to new shapes and proportions.
Contours are linear yet form-fitting, showcasing a renewed focus on leisurewear Wool pants rest at the ankle with a distinctive 8cm cuff, while coats and jackets in the softest cashmere are crafted using an exclusive double technique to create luxurious, lightweight garments.
Lines abound throughout the collection in different forms: singly in classic chalk-stripes, painted roughly for a mélange effect or intersecting with one another to create window-pane checks. A monochrome palette recalls the color-scape of the city, with occasional flashes in petrol blue and Canali yellow to draw in the eye.
The resulting collection comes to life on a runway made up of a seven different piazze, each illuminated by a grid-like installation of neon lines. Models move from one space to the next through a series of linear pathways – meeting and crisscrossing with one another in an abstract evocation of the urban context. In the same way, exacting creativity and exemplary craftsmanship cross paths in the new collection, taking the Canali man in an exciting new direction for next Winter.
Tue, February 3 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, September 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
The Fall Winter 2013 collection while remaining coherent to its deeply Italian soul, it embraces international echoes and influences : in the background St. Petersburg, the Western taste and opulence of its architecture, the light of a winter day that slowly rises in the most European cities of Russia, fairy-tale landscapes and rarefied atmosphere of color notes.
Echoes and quotations – Gogol, Mark Rothko, and Sonia Delaunay – are transformed in the tailoring of a parade coat in saturated colors and precious coats of velvet, double-breasted suits in the rigor of refined, luxury fantasies in silk scarves and waistcoats , in the softness of a warm but strict fur lining.
A composite but casual elegance, where the codes, strict time, are now little more than a sophisticated game through which to express its own unique personality of a man who is a little ‘retro and a little’ edge.
Exclusive fabrics – cashmere, silk, Casentino and bouclé – marry the classic tones of brown, blue and gray, mixed with saturated and intense colors as purple, brick red and dark, or in those colors of mineral oil, petrol blue and malachite.
Dry and comfortable cuts for clothes for single and double breasted, but the coat is the undisputed star of the collection, precious and large wool-silk and mink inlaid, or soft boiled wool resulting in deco, or military-style lofty and sumptuous, with astrakhan collar.
Upon completion of impeccable style, important accessories in crocodile, perfect touches to a luxurious collection in memory of a past in which men chose clothing as an expression of status symbol.
Sat, March 2 2013 » Fashion Blog