A look back into the vocabulary of the house to write a new chapter and move forward. Debuting in the role of creative director, Lee Wood reboots the Dirk Bikkembergs codes to where it all started, skewing nostalgia yet striving for authenticity. The bywords are unmistakable: truth, manliness, assurance. The Dirk Bikkembergs man is, pragmatically, a man – con dent, grown-up – equally at ease in showing o sartorial discipline or a wild, almost tribal side as well as hints of fragility.
Silhouettes are bold, de ned by sharp cuts of militaristic precision that give a Dirk Bikkembergs imprint to staples and classics. Quilted panels suggest protection on crombies and parkas equipped for survival. Outsized pockets recur as a sign, both functional and visual.
Tailored jackets and trousers gain volume and de nition, while knits are thick, textural and tactile. Inside out e ects disrupt the overall strictness with unruly touches which carry on in the wild wool fringes and decomposed patterns charged with a sauvage vibe. The quintessentially masculine spirit is enforced by whi s of heavy duty workwear, camo textures and rhythmic stripes.
Fabrics such as herringbone and worsted wools, cashmere, technical nylon and enzyme-treated cotton are manly and reassuring, in a classic color palette of camel, black, white and navy blue. Traveling across seasons and extremes, the Dirk Bikkembergs man is now ready to front any situation with dignity, physical presence and ease.
Sun, January 22 2017 » Fashion Blog
Synthetic – organic, sport – luxury, urban – elegant.
The new collection comes into being from the collision of universes apparently in conflict with one another.
Juxtaposition creates a surprising mix of glamour and elegance.
The absolute stars are leather, knitwear and fur, with highly advanced construction techniques appropriated from the world of sport; graphic inlays and colour blocking, like icy grey mélange, pine green with egg yolk yellow, camel, lilac-lavender and emerald green.
Volume in extreme opposition, from the very loose to the very tight, deliberately brought together in a carefully thought-out play of aesthetic contrasts. These contrasts also return in the vast choice of materials: natural wool, astrakhan, calfskin, technical fabrics, velvet, transparent nylon and many more.
The most emblematic feature of the Juxtaposition between experimentation and tradition, is the fur sports coat, which combines weather-proof zips, heat sealing construction and technical membranes with beaver fur. The reinterpretation of a classic in the Dirk Bikkembergs style.
The Dirk Bikkembergs Man’s wardrobe is constructed around contrast and juxtaposition: impeccable, bold, urban, sportive, yet, always, effortlessly elegant.
Wed, February 27 2013 » Fashion Blog
The Dirk Bikkembergs man of winter 2012/13 lives in a future where simplicity is the strong point of his wardrobe. In this collection there is a constant striving towards reinterpreting the style of the fashion house, which is visible in the meticulous study of the shape, the painstaking research on details and the physical presence, which is emphasized but never overexposed. On the catwalk, the men carry with them the historical DNA of the brand, with an all-round contemporary awareness: the perfection of the sportsman coincides with the conceptual balance of good looks.
On show, jerkins and coatswhere whose impeccable craftsmanship is seen not only from the lining, but is revealed by exposed outer zips and by the contrasting thread that outlines the skeleton. Thus, the structure of the garment becomes the basis for discreet graphic elements of deconstructed jackets, reefer jackets with a linear cut and reworked windbreakers. Effects of multiple materials and warm/cold contrasts run through the whole collection: the softness of cashmere is combined with the stiffness of technical fabrics, fine leathers and rich wools. On the other hand, there is a certain linearity in the colours: (non) blacks, very dark greens and blues, smoky greens. Nuances to mix and layer, a chromatic certainty pondered thoroughly.
Also, a reference to casual rigorousness, with vaguely retro shapes reinterpreted through a metropolitan style, such as the gabardine trench coats and jerkins with severe lines, double zips and inner pockets concealed between two layers: a perfect balance between a formal and refined external look and a sporty mood on the inside. The trousers follow a fairly soft line and are often cut like jeans. They are hybrid as well, with a slightly lowered crotch and in some cases a more regular fit. A new interpretation of the fit is also visible in the volumes, which are always very balanced. In addition, leather jerkins and modern suits of armour enhanced by the brand’s favourite details: maxi-pockets, large zips and exposed woollen inserts. For knitwear, oblique effects, thick cables and beautiful graphic motifs created by exposed seams. Wool and nylon technical cardigans and seamless cashmere crewnecks. Even the classic model of the sweatshirt is offered in cashmere: the absolute conjunction of elegance and casual comfort. The evening is opulent: beaver furs, sweaters worn on the skin in gold and violet lurex. Tuxedos, hints of velvet, cotton and technical fabric sweaters enhanced by leather inserts.
As far as accessories go, leather tote and weekend bags are offered in the most classic sizes, in shades that go from black to mud, via a very dark green. The wool hats take the classic baseball and riding caps as inspiration.
Mon, January 30 2012 » Fashion Blog
For summer 2012, Dirk Bikkembergs athletes dive into water. Thus showing the artistic beauty of a discipline as strict and harmonic as synchronized diving. When more bodies draw lines in the air in masterfully coordinated evolution, we have to admire their extraordinary perfection. And perfection is an art.
From this awareness comes the desire to stage a catwalk on which the protagonist’s body, dressed almost entirely in white, is more important than anything else. White is here to serve as the color of the skin, impeccably tanned and golden in the summer sun. The material chosen for this new collection is the sponge, add the obligatory jersey and an absolute novelty: the neoprene used to make the costumes of swimming champions from around the world. These leaders were born from the creativity of the fashion house of Dirk Bikkembergs, and the revolutionary technology of the X-Glide custom applications developed by Arena.
Dirk Bikkembergs and Arena: fashion and sports come together as the sign of the avant-garde design, for an unprecedented partnership.
Sat, June 25 2011 » Fashion Blog