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BACKSTAGE VERSACE FW 2019-20 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Versace Fashion Show 2019 Milan
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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

VERSACE FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Versace Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Versace Fashion Show FW 2019

 

The Women’s Fall-Winter 2019 Collection explores the house’s codes through a new lens. The dichotomy of luxury and grunge is present on the runway, where rich fabrics feature unfinished hems and looks are adorned with signature Safety Pins. The collection is a celebration of Versace iconography, while contrasting styling elements, fabric innovation and an ode to photography deliver multi-dimensional impact.

Key runway looks pay tribute to Versace’s storied relationship with fashion photography, featuring portraits of Donatella Versace by Richard Avedon. These images are reprised in the Fall-Winter Collection thanks to the support of the Richard Avedon Foundation. The American photographer lensed more than 30 campaigns for Versace over the course of 20 years, beginning with the Spring-Summer 1980 Collection. For the launch of the fragrance Blonde, Avedon created portraits of Donatella Versace in his studio in New York on February 3rd, 1995.

The Blonde campaign, and in particular, the associated fragrance, lent further inspiration to the collection where new prints and embroideries showcase the house’s most distinctive perfume bottles. The print innovation continues in Versace’s colorful trademark style, mixing bold hues with house codes and references to art history. Monuments come to life in vivid tones on the Vittoria print through a bright representation of a statue from London’s National Gallery. An explosion of color celebrates the essence of Versace. Barocco-style V’s feature on silks, lurex jacquards and on the house’s new handbag line, Virtus. Taking its name from the Roman deity, Virtus symbolizes strength, courage, and character. A bold symbol of the brand’s aesthetic heritage, the central Barocco V characterizes the bag.

The conflicting natures of luxury and grunge are revealed in the styling and details of the collection. Quintessential Versace hardware elements like the Greek Key and newly embellished Safety Pins are at the core of this juxtaposition. Cashmere knits are destroyed while raw-cut edges on colorful tweeds are overlaid with top-stitched silk bondage straps. Stockings are paired with slip dresses, faux furs are worn with the gold chains, and leather boots are dramatized with hardware buckles.

“Bold women feel free to stay away from what is expected. With this collection, I wanted to show that side of a woman that isn’t afraid to step outside of her comfort zone because she knows that imperfection is the new perfection.”

– Donatella Versace –

 

FW 2019-20 Versace Fashion Show
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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

MARCO DE VINCENZO FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Marco De Vincenzo Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Marco De Vincenzo Fashion Show FW 2019

 

MY FAVOURITE THINGS

“One of my favorite things in the world is a little ceramic deer from the Forties that I found a few years ago in a small shop. I like it so much, I keep it in a glass case at home: even though it is not precious, it is very precious to me. It’s the same Bambi that I shaped into an invitation to this show. This collection feels very personal: it is filled it with my favorite things. I wanted to celebrate what I like as a designer, what triggers my creativity and makes me love my job. The idea that everything comes together, for instance, even when things are put one next to another for no particular reason but a creative urge. This fateful randomness, which in fact is not randomness, is completely my own, just like the love for lurex, waves, optical motifs; just like the proclivity for macramè, glitter, intensely psychedelic surfaces. I like riffs of the metallic and distorted ladylike. I like velvet and I like a womanly dress, or a very bourgeois ensemble that I twist and turn by way of color, texture or pattern. A touch of kitsch is something I am not afraid of at all. This collection is one hundred percent me, a recollection of the weird and wonderful alphabet of my label, which I launched exactly ten years ago. What is specific and exclusive of this moment is the ease of it all, the pervasive sense of spontaneity. I am feeling light right now. So does my work”.

Marco de Vincenzo

 

FW 2019-20 Marco De Vincenzo Fashion Show
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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

ICEBERG FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Iceberg Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Iceberg Fashion Show FW 2019

 

Snow White or Evil Queen? Why chose when you can be both suggests Creative Director James Long corrupting the purity of full white looks with cherry blossom punks in Barbara Cartland pink and garments adorned with gems quite possibly from Disney’s mines.

Basket weave jacquards in Royal blue distort garden flowers and logos in texture and shine on knitted cycling shorts and midi-pencils. A stripe shirt dips into the same graphic while a long dress, thigh split with balloon sleeves is tone on tone. An oversized bondage strapped men’s coat with Dopey on the reverse raises smiles even when you are in Off-to-Work-We- Go mode.

White and cream softness in chiffon and brushed fluff Snow White knitwear are made tough with military inspired garter over-skirts and Artic white denim. Clear sunglasses and roomy padded coats for our pure as snow heroine are available for both men and women.

But bite the apple and embrace your dark side. A new take on a pair from the archive ICEBERG bondage trousers with matching jackets cover punkish brushed sweaters and studded crystal strips (based on the guitar strap of PJ Harvey) light up luxurious tricadi tailoring. White shirts have louche rock star studded collars.

The glitzy neon glow of gems and crystals give a Douglas Leigh LED cityscape over black bodysuits, full length dresses and trousers. The evil Queen, hand drawn and knitted sneers at her reflection in the Linda Farrow for ICEBERG Magic Mirror sunglasses.

High shine plasticised chiffon become Siouxsie tight trousers, boots and the shoulders of jackets where knit has been fused with fabric in a process called agugliatura or needling.

Chaotic yet soft styling with pink oversized cardigan dresses and diaphanous fabrics are layered over sporty bodysuits and shorts. While in a puce DB jacket with matching trousers and chiffon shirt you don’t have to wait for your fairy tale ending: you’ve become your very own Prince.

Special guest on the runway the first ICEBERG x Linda Farrow eyewear collection. The collaboration is a classic sporty silhouette that has been playfully printed with ICEBERG’s strong primary colour stripes and logo. Featuring reflective lenses, black rubberised details and a matt white finish paired with a white knit sports strap.

 

FW 2019-20 Iceberg Fashion Show
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Sun, February 24 2019 » Fashion Blog

BOTTEGA VENETA FALL WINTER 2019 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Bottega Veneta© Copyright 2019

Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2019 collection is a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality. Creative Director Daniel Lee’s first runway show for the house is an exercise in elevated detail, noble materials and energetic silhouette.

While the quiet craft central to Bottega Veneta’s identity is still present, Fall 2019 brings a sharp injection of modernity to traditional technique, turning up the volume. Combining the human hand with technology and process, the result is simultaneously classic and contemporary.

A viewpoint on the house’s Italian origins seen through today’s global lens offers another visible tension – the conspicuous and the refined, high and low, hedonism and intellect. The season’s palette is also a reflection on this discussion, chemical hues and shimmering embellishment meet natural tones and everyday colour.

Presenting a new vocabulary for Bottega Veneta, leather and the house’s Intrecciato weave is reinterpreted and evolved. Polished dresses and layered knitwear pair with armour-like outerwear, sharp tailoring and confident accessories.

Ultimately, the aim of this season’s collection is a simple one, to evoke emotion – pleasure and joy, desire and beauty.

 

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2019
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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

FENDI FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Fendi Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Fendi© Copyright 2019

The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Collection is the final Collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, representing a lifetime of dedication and creation from 1965 until today. In his perpetual search for beauty and innovation, Karl’s commitment to his craft never waned. This Collection embodies that devotion, from the season’s defining sketches to his ultimate FENDI gesture: the romantic trace of a silk foulard. Reflected in a multitude of ideas, each expression is innately and forever his own.

Eternally forward-looking, the silhouette is triumphant in its depth and majestic in its simplicity. Trompe l’oeil – an enduring signature – defines fabrications with an opulent hand, as architectural planes are shot through with an irresistible lightness. Neutral tones lift through pale ivory tulle, warm cognac patent and terracotta calfskin to sublime shades of daffodil, sea green, tangerine and azure. Like petals or plumes, wallpaper prints become textures on cloque, organza and satin.

Drawn from a pagoda shoulder, zipped and double-breasted tailoring is nipped at the waist and threaded with floating bow belts. In cotton poplin and fine leather, pointed shirt collars button high in Karl’s inimitable style. Worn with full pleated trousers, jacket pockets and asymmetric lapels are outlined in a slick shadow play.

Diamond shapes abound in the shifting lines of transparency, pleating and latticework transposed, one over the other, as wrap knife-pleated skirts, monogram tulle bodysuits and laser cut leather outerwear. Designed in 1981, Karl’s curling ‘Karligraphy’ FF logo monogram appears on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur, as high-collared shift dresses whisper softly in diaphanous silk and honeycomb lace.

The FENDI Women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 Accessories Collection abounds with newness, as the Baguette is transformed in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness. A spacious metal frame tote in shiny calf or Pequin stripe shearling folds into a clutch, as the Peekaboo echoes the season’s perforated techniques. Square-heeled flats or pointed high-heel boots in shiny neoprene and scrolling knitted neoprene continue the season’s shadow motif with a contrast sole and zipper.

“The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and FENDI is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the Collection. It’s a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed.” – Silvia Venturini Fendi

 

Fendi Fashion Show FW 2019
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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

EMPORIO ARMANI FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Emporio Armani Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan
Emporio Armani Fashion Show FW 2019
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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

BACKSTAGE MAX MARA FW 2019-20 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Backstage Max Mara Fashion Show 2019 Milan
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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

MAX MARA FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Max Mara Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

Max Mara© Copyright 2019

THE POLITICS OF GLAMOUR

‘I like glamour. Not afraid of it.’ So declared the iconic supermodel and many times face of Max Mara, Linda Evangelista. She wasn’t, but many were. Sometimes, in the debate about fashion and feminism, glamour took a beating. Right now, everyone’s talking about fashion that empowers women, but how exactly does that work?

Max Mara says it’s all about clothes that allow you to shine. Glamour is the magic ingredient that puts the power into power dressing. More than just ’fashion’, glamour offers an armoury of personae, tricks and tools. Thinkers like Camille Paglia rejoice in that. ‘It’s men who suffer from conventions of dress,’ she says.

Max Mara’s boss lady works that advantage to the full; she is sharper, smarter and sassier than ever. What does Max Mara glamour translate into? A silhouette that’s strong at the shoulder; wider, boxier and leggier. Skirts that look as though they were cut from mens’ pants –above the knee, or ankle grazing- to wear with thigh high boots and svelte polo sweaters.

Plush alpaca, camel and cashmere artfully bound in leather. A new luxe take on puffas –with camel’s hair wadding. In trademark camel, black, white, and tan, heritage prints discovered in the archive. A bold mix of tweed, jaunty checks, proudly faux croc and zebra. And for the working woman, workwear, literally; impeccably tailored utility vests, jackets and cargo skirts with multiple zips and pockets.

The moodboard recalls that early nineties moment when the supermodels strutted the Max Mara runway in threes and fours. Happy and heroic, in tech- nicolour total looks; the kind of bright optimism that we need a bit of now. A Teddy in audacious cyan, cerulean or corn yellow? Why not? It will light up your winter, this year and many more to come. And where better to show than Università Bocconi? A world class institution whose graduates are movers and shakers –nearly half are women, and the number is rising.

‘Dressing like a woman means wearing anything a woman deems appropriate and necessary for getting the job done.’ says Roxane Gay. Max Mara goes one step further; here’s the suit that makes you look forward to getting up and dressed in the morning, here’s the dress that picks you up even when you don’t really want to go to that party, and here’s the treasured coat that you wear to that meeting at which you absolutely have to triumph.

 

Max Mara Fashion Show FW 2019
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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

N°21 FALL WINTER 2019 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

N°21 Fashion Show FW 2019 Milan

N°21© Copyright 2019

SUSPENSE

Sexiness, way beyond sensual because it’s an aware kind of sexy. Desired, strived after, expressed. Noir, for it operates in the ambiguity, the secret disclosure of a pervading tone of danger. A life unfolding as if in a thriller where the heroines of the story create suspense. The N21 fall/winter 2019 women’s collection embraces unexpected cuts, well-defined slits, the sharpest of lines, fashioning dresses for strong, mysterious women, a bit ambiguous. Hollywood glam femme fatales who give the wink to Italian style bad girls.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director. «All comes from an impression I got watching Brian De Palma’s 1980 film Dressed to Kill again. I was particularly struck by the atmosphere the director created both with his voluptuous use of the movie camera and with the passionate, sensual music of Pino Donaggio, mounting a true symphony of terror on the screen.
I wanted to recreate a similar mood, sending down the catwalk a strong woman who clearly craves to come on sexy and who, with equal awareness, exalts her own ambiguity through clothes that reveal her real intentions. No more pretence. I produced a “film noir” where the dress is an authentic clue to the mystery to divulge. I designed transformational clothes, for like the women who wear them. They’re ambiguous.»

The plot of the collection. Everything opens halfway: overcoats, dresses, trench coats, cardigans. Regularly free of any fastening in front, they open and close in back thanks to zippers. Through actual razor cuts effecting an almost Fauvist brutalism, the dress in duchesse, chiffon or faille unveils underneath duchesse top and culottes; or, in alternative, an exquisitely sensual slip-dress consisting of top and latex tube skirt in a matching color. And while the trench coats preserve the look and hue of the classic Mackintosh, they undergo a transformation, either because they reveal a wholly reversible part in gold on the inside or because they have underneath another trench cut in half. As for other dresses, they have random embroidery imperfectly placed and stitched. Not at all in contradiction with the mannish latex shirts, the faux-fur wool coats (featuring an exclusive textile process) and the dyed red long-hair shearlings. Lastly, froissé sequins and lace give definition to dresses with the rumpled allure of a nocturnal adventurer who wants to come out of the darkness; accompanied simply by a melton overcoat that opens entirely in back. «It’s the plot of a story about women with striking personalities, not babes but thinking individuals able to call the shots, lead the way, also through the clothes they wear,» Dell’Acqua says.

Accessories. They are tools of a sudden, mysterious type of seduction. The Lolita bag, in leather, melton or velvet, has a chain linking it to a smaller bag held on a finger with a ring. The same chain may also come off and become a bracelet. Shoes include crystal-studded high heel mules in blush pink or in black, as well as a pump in ottoman complete with stripe and black jet embroidery.

 

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Sat, February 23 2019 » Fashion Blog

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