GEOMETRY OF STYLE
Prowling the runway is an elegant and damned seducer out of a film noir.
Cloaks and overcoats thrown over the shoulders envelop the Ermanno Scervino Man, disclosing new geometrical proposals that meld the rigour of impeccably tailored creations with the eccentricity of a man who thinks outside the box.
As the designer himself puts it:
“The Ermanno Scervino man doesn’t follow fashion, he studies it. He knows how to appreciate the story of hands and ideas that every garment narrates, a culture that makes him a trendsetter without undue formality or extravagance.”
The motifs of the male wardrobe are reinterpreted, proposing a style that showcases new geometries combined with each other in a harmonious whole.
Micro and macro all-over chequered patterns sketch out the silhouettes of overcoats, jackets, blazers, slim-fit pants, scarves and ties.
Houndstooth, contrast stripes, Prince of Wales, herringbone and bird’s eye patterns on wool and boiled wool fabrics and on felted knit fabrics worked unlined or two-tone bonded, also adorning maxi sweaters in alpaca and mohair.
The volumes of the outerwear are oversize, with the down jacket concealed beneath the parka in wool cloth, which becomes technical when bonded with fleece or comes out into the open embellished with fur.
For the evening, suits are introduced in unusual velvet combinations and chalk-stripes in felted knit.
The accessories follow the motifs of the collection. Footwear features the high-laced Derby with heavy-duty sole.
Colours paint out night shades: black, greys, midnight blue, at times lit up by hints of optical white, plaster, sky and cornflower blue.
Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO FW 2014-15, FALL WINTER MEN 2014-15
Thu, March 6 2014 » Fashion Blog
Sun, December 8 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
ERMANNO SCERVINO: BRILLIANCE EVERYWHERE
PLAY OF LIGHT AND STONES FOR THE NEW CONTEMPORARY GLAMOUR
Ermanno Scervino: “I have created a new daywear, poised between casual and tailored.
I love contrasts of materials and colours: sporty fabrics such as canvas with couture tailoring, bonded with satin, muslin and lace and glittering with Swarovski crystals.”
The womenʼs show of the Spring Summer 2014, runs on a teak catwalk, inspired by the most glamourous yacht of ʻ60s, the Christina. The star of the show – khaki canvas – becomes couture, bonded with stretch silk satin in contrast colours. Linen and denim too become double-face, bonded with silk duchesse and satin.
Embroidered transparent organza with spotted effect for coats and shorts. Kilts restyled with origami folds, Geometrical transparencies even in the suede, again khaki colour.
All enhanced by Swarovski crystals that embellish the lapels of jackets and reefers, shoulders and necklines.
For the evening, long gowns inspired by caftans in cotton and silk, with soft silhouettes, sometimes clinched at the waist with metal belts. Sculptural mini-dresses with draping and layerings of organza, in various nuances of green, or in irregular chiffon plissé, illuminated by crystals.Three-quarter length dresses with multi-coloured flower embroideries.
The new mini jumpsuits are enveloped by maxi-cardigans in cashmere or technical fibres. PVC is embroidered in houndstooth pattern or in macramé effect in leather. Hints of mink for the yellow canvas parka and the bedjacket.
Hand-worked Florentine straw bag and new peep-toes, even in nuanced leather, satin and gold-coated canvas. A hail of Swarovski crystals, even fumé, on the leather cage sandals.
Khaki and brilliant white, all the shades of green, yellow, black, sky blue and the naturals.
Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2014
Fri, December 6 2013 » Fashion Blog
Wed, September 11 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
THE ERMANNO SCERVINO MAN: THE ESSENCE OF SEDUCTION
Denim provides the leitmotif for the collection, amid icons of the past and present.
ERMANNO SCERVINO: “The man of the next summer season highlights his contemporaneity through the denim, which overcomes the habitual standards and becomes the man character of the collection”.
The Ermanno Scervino man looks to the legendary figures that seduced entire generations, but with subtlety, asking no more of his clothing than to reflect his desires, passion and charm.
The designer’s creative approach to the SS 2014 collection takes inspiration from the icons of the past and present, such as Marcello Mastroianni, JFK and Barack Obama, as well as Mick Jagger, Marlon Brando, James Dean and Steve McQueen.
Denim is the key element of the collection and comes in a wide variety of shades and finishes. It becomes tailored, doubled in the collection’s pea coats and jackets, or lacquered with an innovative finish that transforms it without altering its classic denim soul.
The green, black, blue, putty grey and orange denim is lacquered in the collection’s trousers and contrasting stripes.
VOLUMES: new proportions for jackets that pare down the figure, making it cleaner; the trousers are sharp, the pea coats linear and the jackets slim-fit, with rubberised grow-grain details and contrasting stripes.
MATERIALS: new textured effects can be observed in the technical mesh bonded to crêpe de chine, and the leather and suede matched with fine weaves of silk in the jackets, duster coats and shirts. The biker jackets features grossamer-light-croc-print glove leather, while the trousers Swarovski details on shirts and accessories.
PATTERNS: geometric motifs of criss-cross stripes and argyle patterns in the light mohair, stainless steel cotton and cashmere sweaters, with stripes reappearing as trim in the pea coasts and bomber jackets.
ACCESSORIES: lace-up derby shoes in denim and lacquered denim, Oxford shoes with platform soles in two-tone micro-rubber. Denim-coloured and putty grey macramé scarves.
COLOURS: all types of denim wash. Shades: blue, green, black, orange and putty grey.
Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2014, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2014
Tue, September 10 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2013
FALL WINTER 2013/14
MEN’S COLLECTION – WOMEN’S PRECOLLECTION AN EXCITING CREATIVE APPROACH
An exciting creative approach and a profoundly remodelled line of research that reconsiders, recomposes and reinvents the very roots of the expressive world of Ermanno Scervino. Two collections for the Florentine Maison – the woman’s Pre-collection F/W 2013-14 and the men’s F/W Collection – that intersect and counterpoise each other on a harmonious keynote, paced out by tonal references, hyper-contemporary suggestions and strong analogies. All these come together in a single major show, played out in the austere Mannerist space of the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio, the most authentic and emblematic soul of the City of the Lily. It is indeed precisely the Florentine lily, with all its proud symbolic impact and its timeless, stylised geometric elegance, that features on some of the items that Ermanno Scervino has conceived, underscoring the significance of this tribute to the infinite artistic riches, the beauty and the potent capacity of inspiration of the Tuscan capital where the Maison has its premises. Ermanno Scervino never tires of stressing the vital importance to his work of the direct comparison with the perfect landscape of the Tuscan countryside, with the pure, Humanist light that vibrantly sketches the contours of the stunning hills, the painterly horizons and lush fields. Over sixty appearances on the runway in a show that meshes two languages of different styles and lineage albeit in this specific case in the most staggeringly close dialogue.
For the coming F/W season the Scervino man looks unhesitatingly towards the very mould of the tradition of man’s tailoring. But he does so with a jaunty and extremely youthful elegance that blends austerity and humour in dynamic, ultra-slender shapes, with restrained, almost elusive revers for the jackets, figure-hugging styles that define the body, mellow rock reflexes on masterful grisailles, supported by slightly stretch neoprene weaves. Easy-going early 60s charm, with “Dolce Vita” nuances for the ties, with a hint of casual intellectual refinement. The play of opposites in unusual materials and textures: suede and shiny lacquered fabrics, flannel and bird’s eye weaves that dialogue naturally with precise sporty citations, that disturb and play uncompromising havoc with the aesthetic codes and canons of this new modernity. Blazers that mingle with masterful knitwear, created through precious sometimes manual processes, contrast knit mesh overlaid on raglan pullovers, the overcoat in supersoft black leather that looks like cloth and reveals a flagrantly technological core. Full total black velvet edged with a dandyish piping in grosgrain for evening, when the pure white, essential, composite and highly-structured shirt plays the lead role. Scervino’s colour palette is resolved in practically a trio of greys, declined in shades verging from lead to a light, impalpable and aerial tone and absolute black with precious veinings of blue light. A diktat that is contradicted here and there and enhanced only by the enlivening rhythm of burgundy. Amazing hats: felts evoking the aura of adventure, and comfortable distinctly masculine shoes, with rounded shapes and toes.
The Ermanno Scervino F/W 2013-14 Women’s Pre-collection is an authentic firework display. The quintessentially feminine language that has always characterised Scervino’s poetics here becomes essential, returns to its most intimate core and a distinctly pure emanation, to the potent joy of the design. The lines map the body, tracing its contours, at once soft and concise. Fourreau in black leather, in cognac suede, palazzo pyjamas opting for a male “must” such as grisaille, or garbing themselves in luminous ivory wool, giving life to a passe-partout timeless chic. Python dissolves to be magically recomposed in symmetrical ranks and ranks following the natural patterns, alternated with the impalpable lightness of organza. Leather is embellished with embroideries and floral and phytomorphic openwork, dramatic inserts, a hymn to sensuality. And then lace, delicate and suffused, masterfully tinged with secret dyes to create the incredible softness of a precious vintage effect. And once again here we have a staging of material opposites, combined with a colour range that from black to pure whites and grey stretches through to the distilled opalescent nuance of “ash pink”. Behind the relentless and prodigious creativity of Ermanno Scervino is a peerless universe of skilled hands, most of them female, an amazing and cohesive craft expertise that is heir to a secular practice, knowledge and aesthetics. A unique human and professional heritage that allows the dream to come true, that transforms the cipher of the creative expression, the basic idea, the genesis of an artistic temperament, into something tangible and real.
Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO FW 2013-14, FALL WINTER MEN 2013-14, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2013-14, Pitti Immagine
Tue, January 22 2013 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2012
ERMANNO SCERVINO’S BOHO-CHIC WOMAN
A SURPRISING YET HARMONIOUS PLAY OF COLOURS AND MATERIALS FROM DISTANT LANDS
Ermanno Scervino’s boho-chic woman is attracted by a tailored luxury belonging to the World. Colours and materials come together in unusual ways, generating a harmonious encounter between Mediterranean and Atlantic.
A meld of macramé embroideries, floral designs and arabesques, netted lacy weaves in the patchwork finishes of dresses, tops and jackets delivering sensual transparencies.
Strong, warm shades – duckbill, violet, yellow, coral and fuchsia, even mingled – transmit new atmospheres in the silk tops laced at the neck, in the impalpable mohair sweaters backed with mesh, the shorts and the long low-waisted skirts and the mini-dresses made of silk, leather and suede.
White and black map out geometrical motifs in the transparent nets, the patchworks, the flounces and at the waistlines of the sleeveless mini-dresses.
Hand-made organza feathers and lasered flounces for collars and some of the garments of the collection; tassels and fringes create unique sleeveless dinner jackets, with revers made of fabric or macramé patchwork.
Jackets and parkas in technical fabrics featuring retro collars with jewel buttons, inserts or laser appliqués and fringes in contrast colour.
Single-shoulder evening dresses in contrasting shades, with transparencies allowing glimpses of brassiere and culottes.
The collection is rounded off by sandals with shaped wooden wedges and upper in two-tone leather weave or bands of shagreen stamped leather.
Sack bags in mesh knit paired with nappa leather or raffia; handbags in gold-frosted stamped ostrich; mini-bags with mesh of macramé weave or raffia with spangles.
Tags: ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER WOMEN 2013
Fri, October 12 2012 » Fashion Blog
A play of unusual combinations and contrasts applied to the shapes, materials and colors. Perfectly ironed tailored slim-fitting jacketsare combined with trousers made of textured fabrics with a worn-in look, characterized by special washes, or by low-waisted cargo styles in garment-dyed canvas.
Jackets in technical fabric with a crumpled organza finish are paired with tailored chinos. The reversible concept for jackets is developed using technical fabrics either in cotton/linen in shades of blue or in mat-weave cotton/ramie blend in natural shades.
The Scervino man plays with the concept of the suit, by which the shirt – in chambray or stretch Oxford – plays the role of jacket and is matched with pants in the same fabric. The biker-style jacket is made of raw linen knitted in linen stitch; the trench coats and military blazers in dyed canvas.
The crumpled and ironed contrasts re-emerge in the shirts range, showcasing prints, embroideries and embellished by buttons with aged-silver finish and mother-of-pearl snap buttons. Made in light muslin, micro-stripe stretch cotton, or in linen chambray in a mixture of plain powder-blue tones, striped or with chequered designs, enhanced by darn-style embroideries.
The new short sleeved knits come in mohair with a double-plait effect in jersey, with a light weft in shades of aqua green, powder blue and flesh, or made of cashmere in natural shades of sand. The knitwear is made of ultra light, almost impalpable yarns such as linens and silks, which mould themselves to the body; alternatively in chunkier yarns, knitted in micro moss stitch for the linen-steel, in irregular cables for the raw linen, and in fabric stitch for the cotton.
Accessories: The shoes, laced-up English style, two-tone in nappa – white/black, white/brown and white/blue – or in single-shade split leather in the brightest colors, are subjected to a special wash treatment to obtain a slight melding of the colors. Two-tone stretch straw hats, work bags and micro-boule chain bracelets round off the collection.
Colors: Blue shades steal the limelight: from sugar bag blue to the pale blue of washed-out jeans through to midnight blue, which we also find matched with military green. Another important role is played by natural shades such as white, off-white and sand, combined with softer variants, sometimes vintage such as aqua green, powder blue and flesh.
Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO SS 2013, SPRING SUMMER MEN 2013
Sat, September 15 2012 » Fashion Blog
The worlds of Hampshire, England, and eighteenth century Venice collide in an equestrian dimension – this is the realm of inspiration for the upcoming Ermanno Scervino Fall/Winter Collection. Statuesque dimensions merge with super feminine elements, making the waistline this collection’s key element.
Egg shapes, frock-coats, tulip shapes are the new forms that cinch the waist and trace the torso, offering us dresses, quilted jackets, overcoats and jackets in crêpe, plunge nappa leather and double-faced wool – faced with neoprene – with a tailored fit characterized by a soft shoulder and pronounced collars.
Macramé reigns on coats and jackets for next winter, paired with maxi-houndstooth crêpe, or with felt and then given a worn look. It also is needlepunched in soft mohair shirts or appears in easy-to-wear dresses or shrug jackets.
Mixed light grey and anthracite-grey flannel bodices and bustiers pair with hip-hugging knee-length skirts or cropped boiled wool sport jackets and become the alternative to crocheted oversized pullovers and chiffon or silk cloqué blouses with built-in bustier.
Parkas turn up with fur stitch, and when they appear in men’s fabrics, are embellished with grey/off-white jacquard knit insets. The detailing and fabric of the uniforms, revamped through tailored lines and the application of fur, express military style in the language of couture. Leopard print fur with the application of knitting for shrug jackets and overshirt.
Velvet and play of organza layers for the bustier minidresses. Long dresses with lace or lace/sequin transparencies.
Gold and palladium rock star jewelry.
Stretch leather calf-boots, pumps, sandals and wedges in iridescent velvet.
Worn gold lamé paired with macramé for boots and bags. New take on the Faubourg bag with crocheting and warp knit.
Camel, brown, black, the shades of green, nude and midnight blue.
Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO FALL WINTER 2012-2013, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2012-13
Sat, February 25 2012 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino brings us the Rock Royal style for next winter. Modern Italian sartorial craftsmanship meets English inspiration. Argyle knitwear and stripes under tailored garments.
The House’s exclusive fabrics and the stretch boiled wool are the centerpieces of fitted yet soft jackets and overcoats. Experimentation of new comfortable knit fabrics doubled with plain knit.
The check prints -from Prince of Wales to micro and maxi houndstooth– blend together pairing perfectly on coats, jackets and scarves. Similarly, the worn cotton parkas are doubled in Kalgan fur with argyle insets. The sporty jackets in Prince of Wales check or houndstooth with plunge nappa leather detailing trade off with double worked, woollen cloth tailored coats with visible selvedge. The military inspired woollen cloth outerwear is raw cut with patches and contrast stitching.
Toying with mix and match, the loose, high collar shirts present unusual pairings of stripes and rhombuses, at times resembling jackets, but worked with knitting needles, or at others, appearing as cardigans with fur stitch collars. The white pant becomes the guiding line of next winter’s new look.
Black for evening. Double cloth coats and tuxedo jackets with plastron and lapels in velvet and satin. Jackets marry pilor with macramè yielding a worn effect as the result of being crafted by hand.
The shirts are white with pleats and ribbing. The silk scarf is black and white striped.
Accessories: scarves in special hides and velvet with an aged look, as well as new ankle boots in goat fur.
Scarves in the collection’s fabrics or in double suede with cashmere/silk knit.
Colors: melange and anthracite greys, army green, shades of burnt brown, blues and blacks. Hints of light blue on the inside of the technical bomber jackets and the Oxford shirts. Points of red and yellow on the finishing of coats and shirts.
Tags: BACKSTAGE, ERMANNO SCERVINO, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13, ERMANNO SCERVINO F/W 2012-13 MEN, FALL WINTER MEN 2012-13
Fri, January 27 2012 » Fashion Blog