Roberto Cavalli © Copyright 2015
The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection interprets the grandeur and opulence of the Baroque, not from a strictly literal perspective, but focusing primarily on the core ideas of expressiveness and exuberance.
Reprising the American reference points of previous seasons, this collection, with it’s slender and sharp silhouettes, also takes inspiration from the rock musician.
Leather pieces are embellished with metal and rubber studs, combining elegant details with biker and cowboy elements – not least in the collection’s biker boots – all seen through an Italian lens, creating an idea of the “Tuscan Prairie” that serves as the Roberto Cavalli playing field.
It’s a style with strong infusions of vintage; illuminated by a palette of golden colors comprised of blacks, tonalities of camel and sand, blue, and electric blue, while the animalier prints, nature’s own tapestry create an alternative to the gold details.
Last but certainly not least, the “No Boundaries” and “Empathy” bands worn under some of the looks symbolize the elevated approach to life of this Florentine designer; in which their are no psychological or material barriers – only endless possibilities.
Tue, February 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 10 2015 » Fashion Blog
Ermanno Scervino © Copyright 2015
CHECK, STRIPES AND FLOWERS
For Ermanno Scervino’s romantic rock patterns
The Ermanno Scervino man for the coming Autumn-Winter will be wearing inverted shearlings, heavyweight flannel shirts in cotton with micro-crystal inserts all emanating that romantic rock flavour that this Maison has chosen for its modern dandy.
Check patterns are starring on bouclé wool overcoats with shearling on the collars, and hints of red, burgundy and lime. A tailored look for overcoats, cabans and duffle coats, with fastenings in hand-stitched leather, declined in the salt & pepper, herringbone, chevron and maxi-Prince of Wales patterns, coupled with shades of camel.
The interiors reveal a knitted lining in a striped pattern, also in the knitted creations in mohair. The Navy overcoats become glam uniforms thanks to the micro-mirrors embroidered on lapels and collars.
The outer knitwear is brightened up with multicolour mouliné threads, with Norwegian-inspired stripes and jacquard patterns, or with contrasting fluo colours on the grisaille jacket of the tailored suits. The pants are slim-fitting and in new fabrics, like the Scottish wool batting.
A must for evenings, the shirts in check patterns with micro-crystals, over trousers with a tuxedo cummerbund. The details: the tuxedo band is in knitwear with a striped pattern. For the accessories, split or calf lace-ups in the colours of the collection.
Ermanno Scervino states: “Today a designer must know how to remain true to his DNA, proposing something beautiful, something new, but always with top-of-the-range quality to please his international clientele.
Aiming for a timeless beauty with its roots in the present but projected towards the future is the goal of everyone who produces Made in Italy items”.
Sun, February 8 2015 » Fashion Blog
As in a Hemingway novel, intense and vibrant solo characters make up the story of a new collection that focuses on the need to outline the essence of male beauty-virile and sensual, but with an underlying softness.
To express this vision of contemporary aesthetic, Giorgio Armani breaches fashion show etiquette to revolutionise the traditional sequence based on fabric weight and functionality.
Everything is mixed up: each exit has its own character, each model is an individual player, bringing out the uniqueness of the pieces worn and the complexity of today-beauty, which derives from a racial melting pot and transcends geographical and cultural barriers.
This aesthetic vision consists of clear and bold iconographic elements, including a lightweight, short and snappy jacket, with no stiffness, for a new slimmer silhouette.
The outfit is completed with high-waisted trousers, vaguely reminiscent of the thirties, with wide hips that seamlessly merge into a tapered, slightly curved leg, creating a sexy, manly movement.
New processing techniques allow for double fabric creations, internal edging, and lasered details, creating weightless structures that feel almost imperceptible to the touch.
The finest luxurious materials such as Cashmere, Vicuña, leather and crocodile skin offer a variety of unexpected, gratifying tactile sensations.
The colour palette brings out the shades of urban grey: a milanese chromatic scale, designed for lovers of this city, in which grey layers sometimes sink into dark and mysterious black hues, or evolve into warm and bold brown tones.
Splashes of antique blue and a few hints of burgundy, or a thin bed of dark green with olive-coloured nuances, create unique surprise effects, not so obvious at first glance.
Thu, February 5 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fendi © Copyright 2015
The FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 Collection is tailored for an urban dreamer. He enjoys freedom. He is restless, also during his lunch break. All he needs is a blanket to rest on, an apple to eat, a soccer ball to play, a bag to carry the kit. Oh, and a park, but of course, no matter how big.
The collection merges lightness and precision, and features the staples of the masculine wardrobe interpreted in the FENDI way – deceiving the senses while pushing craft to the limits. As ever, the focus is on texture: what looks like corduroy is in fact sheepskin or leather, while pinstripes are laser-cut 3d motifs and regimental stripes turn into intarsia; suede morphs halfway through into calf. From afar, everything looks familiar, but at a closer inspection it generates surprise.
The silhouette is soft and comfortable, all straight lines and rounded shoulders. Suits have boxy jackets and trousers that flare at the hem, while coats are sharp and exact. Tweed and club stripes pay homage to tradition but in untraditional ways. Protection characterizes outerwear. A graphic sense of clothing as sum of parts is conveyed through contrast pockets on boxy jumpers and utilitarian slacks, or geometric applications on duvets. Utility is paramount: suede coats can be folded into zippered pouches or are completely reversible, blankets are in fact scarves and feature roomy pockets.
Tones of grey, blue, milk and tobacco build up the classic color palette. Fabrics are dense and tactile: felt, corduroy, tweeds, suede, sheepskin, mohair and shetland.
Accessories are sturdy loafers with fur inserts and felt shoppers or backpacks with straps to hold blankets. The new apple and smiley furry bag charms surprise with an ironic touch.
Wed, February 4 2015 » Fashion Blog
Canali © Copyright 2015
Milan in the 1950s – a city of optimism and dynamism where bold, new constructions rise alongside the muted palazzi of the past. A city of lines: power lines and tram tracks; scaffolding and crossroads; all illuminated by the intense, flickering neon of billboard advertisements. A city of style: impeccably dressed uomini d’affari brush tailored shoulders with the youth in their cropped jackets and rolled up pants.
Andrea Pompilio (Creative Consultant, Canali): “Milan in those years was something unique. A perfect mix of the precision of the past and an explosive sense of creativity, a mixture of practicality and imagination tempered by a typically Italian sense of elegance.”
The Canali FW15 collection begins with this vision – building a bridge between tradition and modernity, where the tailoring expertise and exquisite materials that have been a hallmark of the brand since its foundation are applied to new shapes and proportions.
Contours are linear yet form-fitting, showcasing a renewed focus on leisurewear Wool pants rest at the ankle with a distinctive 8cm cuff, while coats and jackets in the softest cashmere are crafted using an exclusive double technique to create luxurious, lightweight garments.
Lines abound throughout the collection in different forms: singly in classic chalk-stripes, painted roughly for a mélange effect or intersecting with one another to create window-pane checks. A monochrome palette recalls the color-scape of the city, with occasional flashes in petrol blue and Canali yellow to draw in the eye.
The resulting collection comes to life on a runway made up of a seven different piazze, each illuminated by a grid-like installation of neon lines. Models move from one space to the next through a series of linear pathways – meeting and crisscrossing with one another in an abstract evocation of the urban context. In the same way, exacting creativity and exemplary craftsmanship cross paths in the new collection, taking the Canali man in an exciting new direction for next Winter.
Tue, February 3 2015 » Fashion Blog
Cultivated through time and place and projected by experience and mood, individual style is the starting point of the Gucci Men’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection.
Visceral storytelling through fashion, the collection celebrates the idiosyncrasies that define personal style today. From a flourish of a chiffon bow to mink-lined men’s slippers to smatterings of signet rings, a dreamy ambiguity pulsates throughout.
An attitude not a silhouette; an experience not an era—the new collection is a point of departure that blurs the masculine/feminine divide and champions the youthful energy and natural confidence of today’s urbanites.
Contemporary non-conformists, modern romantics, they have hidden spots in every city and a shared intellectual curiosity that informs how they live and what they wear.
Tue, February 3 2015 » Fashion Blog
The total comfort of knitwear, the ductility of jersey, the texture of yarn that becomes an aesthetic dimension that creates new fabrics: the Emporio Armani collection has a strongly urban feel, characterised by the presence of jersey as a highlight and knitwear as an unusual detail.
Rough-cut cloth jersey gives shape to pea coats and parkas made of needled check and in fabrics with a mohair look, lending an image of warmth and comfort.
Research into fabrics and a contemporary taste for graphics are surprisingly expressed in classic herringbone or damier jacquard into which gold and silver metallic threads are woven, interrupted by abstract brush strokes that hint at shodo, traditional japanese calligraphy.
The detail that lends character and defines the garments is that of the macro zip, which outlines the shape of the trousers or fully profiles the jacket.
The jacket becomes increasingly lightweight; unlined and completely unstructured, it offers precise details with features taken from the classic bomber, such as the small shawl collar, ribbed cuffs and bottom edge, and is paired with trousers with a suit effect, both in ribbed knit, as well as in jersey or patterned fabric.
Jackets also come in a camel-coloured compact knit with gold side zipper, or have an incorporated waistcoat. The formal suit has new proportions: a short and tight jacket with smaller lapels and slightly sagging shoulders, combined with wide trousers with two pleats, which gather at the bottom.
Accessories complete the collection, with the use of leathers, fabrics and processing. For example, unstructured rough-cut bags in soft nappa are lined with knitwear. Tan hand-held bags and the backpack are enhanced with macro hinges, or are made in needled check with shodo graphics.
The traditional lace-ups feature tips and heels trimmed with contrasting rubber, while sneakers have a hinge and are covered in fabric. Scarves disappear for a season, replaced by striking collars and bibs in plain stitch with a zipper.
The colour palette is classic, featuring black, grey, camel, blue, hints of chocolate and metallic touches of satin gold and silver.
Mon, February 2 2015 » Fashion Blog
Fri, January 30 2015 » Fashion Blog
Diesel Black Gold © Copyright 2015
For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall-Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad conjured up a singular look inspired by the different, contrasting forces behind the multifarious British tradition.
References to England’s impeccable tailoring heritage are combined with the subversive, irreverent influences of the country’s iconic youth subcultures.
Giving cohesiveness to the collection, disparate elements are blended together and unified by an intense research on materials and techniques.
Textures are at the core of the lineup. The brand’s iconic denim pieces are washed, coated, distressed, patched to obtain the same rich hands of traditional tailoring fabrics, such as tweeds, checks, tartans, houndstooth and Prince of Wales. These are worked for signature outerwear pieces, such as a Donegal tweed trench with denim details and industrial zippers.
Tartan wool pants with applied pockets and zips are over dyed to get a darker, faded effect. Their punkish attitude contrasts with the sartorial sensibility of a coat and a blazer layered over a utilitarian nylon zippered vest and a crispy checked shirt.
Military references run through the collection injecting a sense of strong, assertive masculinity into wool jackets and coats, embellished with patches, chains, safety pins for a customized look.
Traditional British school uniforms are re-interpreted through the collections’ signature irreverent lens. A rebellious attitude informs striped blazers and rugby sweatshirts, adding graphic tones to the the palette of black, blue, indigo, charcoal, sage, military green and red.
Fri, January 30 2015 » Fashion Blog