Missoni © Copyright 2020
The narrative and emotional power of geometry is underestimated. As any other rigorous discipline, instead, geometry is full of feelings and nuances, as Edwin A. Abbott demonstrated a long ago in Flatland – A Romance of many dimensions.
This very geometric, unabashedly graphic Missoni collection is a story of feminine strength, empowerment and self awareness, told in straight lines, bold clean volumes, skin flashing throughout and the womanly taste for self decoration – using jewelry to add further layers to the story.
The freewheeling Missoni spirit is still there, but it marches to a beat of horizontal, diagonal and vertical stripes that shift, move, swing, wrap on and around the body, leaving no way to froth and frivolity – up to a point. The glittering of metal adds sparkle to a dense palette of earthy and burnt tones lit with dashes of red and turquoise.
Outerwear is bold and protective; blouson-cardigans have kimono closures and cropped tailored jackets in boxy shapes are worn with big trousers tucked into boots. Underneath, dresses and leggings cling to the body or reveal it, suggesting body-consciousness as just another facet of feminine power.
Even the New Bags with narrow scarves as straps have an assertive geometric presence. After dark, patterns melt and everything gets soft.
Menswear is just as bold in shape, sensual, and equally glittery. The neatness of the design lets geometry explode in a frenzy of patchwork, swarming everywhere and in every size, from micro to macro.
A Missoni signature through and through, patchwork is Missoni-ism elevated to an nth: a way to reaffirm optimism in these turbulent times. Letting geometry take the lead in the most playful and graphic of ways, patchwork allows for endless kaleidoscopic variations.
As such, it is luxuriously narrative, which finally demonstrates the theorem: the emotional power of geometry is potent. A warm thank you to Cameranebbia for their contribution to the setting of the show.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER MEN 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, MISSONI, MISSONI FW 2020
Thu, February 27 2020 » Fashion Blog
An explosion of vitality and movement, the Fall 2020 collection celebrates a sublime evolution. Rooted in a new dimension. Immersed in a dream. A poetic sensuality pervades every garment. The security of the vulnerability. Pure self-expression.
Rich wax palettes enhance the depth of the black colors;scarlet, lollipop, kiwi and chocolate. Elongated silhouettes wrap and adhere to the body. Refined comfort and warmth.
The delicate nuances of socks and bandages recall the curves and sinuosities of the body. Joy. Grace. Form. The braided continues to emerge, revolutionized by modernity.
The tension between tradition and innovation. Delicate family heirlooms glisten behind amplified fringes and perverse layers. A sense of loss and discovery. Hypnotic ornaments blend and move beyond intimacy.
Staff. Comforting. Sensitive. A fascinating journey through everyday life. A new elegance suitable for any eventuality.
(more…)
Tags: BOTTEGA VENETA, BOTTEGA VENETA FW 2020, FALL WINTER MEN 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
As in the children’s drawings, where the proportions are subjective. Where objects or people are represented without thinking about how they really are. Change the proportions of things. Enlarge them and reduce them as you wish. An explosion of shapes that dictates new rules.
The brooch on the sweaters is so oversized that it is no longer the detail, but the protagonist. Garments and accessories as if they were enlarged by a copier. The shoes have stilettos larger than 200 percent, and the result is a game of curved and wide lines, almost like a comic book.
The knitting stitch is giant, almost exploded. So also that of the stitching of jackets and skirts. The micro doll coats, the sweaters; everything is disproportionate. The typical zipped men’s wallet is no longer a pocket accessory, but a mini bag with handles and shoulder strap.
It is the magic of a girl who no longer plays with her mother’s wardrobe, but creates a new one for herself. The lady like becomes a completely personal fun, mixing macro and micro.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, MARCO DE VINCENZO, MARCO DE VINCENZO FW 2020
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
Iceberg © Copyright 2020
Iceberg presents the new Fall/Winter 2020 a contemporary luxury sporty, grungy and punk womenswear collection. The new season encapsulates the brand’s world: knitwear first of all, as well as outerwear with diamond-shaped quilting, the skilful mix and match of fabrics, all those details that define luxury sportswear and the cartoon influence.
The undisputed star of this collection is the brand’s knitwear expertise. Technical three-dimensional knitwear, glossy, luxurious and meticulously designed. Macramé angora, fluffy mohair and wet-look sequins on relaxed, comfy silhouettes. Slanting geometric patterns play with the diagonal maxi sports shapes.
The diamond quilting, marked by small “I”s, of the cocoon bomber jackets and fitted tailored knitted coats, flows from the tops and ends on the super-slim midi skirts.
New shapes for jackets, knitted corsets, trousers and also asymmetrical dresses, define a new femininity. Short blazers, masculine trousers with a cube lettering print. Lace and tulle, embroidered, mixed and overlaid, create a more evening, clubby feel.
The Jetsons, are incorporated on the iconic sweaters, made with double effect embossed diamond stitching and balloon sleeves. “I need my space” and “out of this world” adorn the signature knits ironic and humours simultaneously.
Textured fabrics such jacquard cady + scuba, embellished with lurex, including a split version, make every single outfit shine. A tailored piumino over coat and elongated knitwear are adorned with the collage mash up work of close friend and colaborator contemporary British artist, Eddie Peake.
Accessories: earmuffs in faux fur, hats, gloves in quilted nylon and lurex socks. Sporty boots and puffy bag. Frosted silver and pure galactic whites are juxtaposed with the black and gold of wild techno parties. Military green and acid green, red and pink.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, ICEBERG, ICEBERG FW 2020
Wed, February 26 2020 » Fashion Blog
Tue, February 25 2020 » Fashion Blog
Sportmax © Copyright 2020
This season, ensembles bear messages that transcend mere aesthetics. The Sportmax Fall-Winter 2020/21 women’s collection confronts both the imminence of a hyper-technological future and the pursuit of a connection with a deeper sense of self. A balanced dichotomy between two scenarios, the latest Sportmax collection also permeates a positive outlook that is open to dialogue, encounters and reciprocal discovery.
Fall-Winter is an embrace of style between a structured mood and a futuristic one, in terms of accents. The sweetness of female silhouettes is imbued with an authentic seductiveness, void of stereotypes.
On the runway, outerwear, the eternal symbol of the brand, takes center stage. Capes, coats, jackets and raincoats are fashioned with unconventional rows of buttons and are updated with exaggerated shoulders, detachable collars and decor embellishments.
Jackets are often defined by compact volumes that compliment short skirts or high-waisted, slightly-flared trousers. The same slacks and skirts are effortlessly married with the billowing elegance of delicate blouses lavished with demi ruffles or anterior plissé.
Layered vests and bodices are dominated by faux leather in solid colours or silver matched with fluid silk and knit dresses. Leather is also worked into pleated inserts or combined with knits, infused into tops, jumpsuits, skirts and pants.
A recurring element is the coordinated outfit, complete with coats and skirts, united by the same materials. Sartorial techniques derived from the tuxedo have been extended to a dress-coat combo version with satin lapels. Denim, incorporated with touches of duchesse, are also a homage to the classic tuxedo.
Dresses are a play on traditional tailoring, revealing underlying fabrics and asymmetrical silhouettes that facilitate three-dimensional effect. A delicate softness accentuates a sinuous figure.
The colour palette is a blend of neutral tones such as camel and khaki, juxtaposed by deeper colours such as navy blue, grey mélange — punctuated by white, pinks and light blues. Predominantly floral prints, as well as délabré upholstery-style patterns and jacquard motifs infuse a sense of levity into an overall futuristic theme.
Boots expand beyond the knee, fashioned with a sculpture heel. Sandals are crafted with ankle straps, while sneakers are reminiscent of astronaut footwear. The Space-Age concept is further emphasised by ultra-scenographic eyewear.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, SPORTMAX, SPORTMAX FW 2020
Tue, February 25 2020 » Fashion Blog
From the gilded extravagances of Marie Antoinette to the candy-bright colors of Tokyo, Jeremy Scott’s Moschino Fall 2020 womenswear collection is all about fantasy, fun—and a bit of irony.
Think: the one-time Queen of France, but cosplayed today. Or, alternatively, as Scott calls her, “Anime Antoinette” stepping out from a flat-screen in 2020, time-traveling in reverse, and holding court in Versailles.
Through it all, an insurrectionary fire burns; when the elite rule with ignorance and decadence, rebellions stir. This is where Scott’s paradox surfaces; the collection is built on hedonism, but it’s the kind of fun that comes with fangs.
The palette is packed with frosting-pastels and hyper-saturation. Shapes are extra-exaggerated. The surreal gets sugar-coated. Farthingale and pannier-waist dresses are morphed into new silhouettes with hybridized hoodies or moto-jackets.
Denim is accented with gold threading; that same metallic embroidery appears as cherubs on skirt hems or leather lapels. Frilled hems add a lighthearted kick, while rainbow jewel-toned velvets recall a more recent sort of nostalgia (the 1760’s meeting, the 1960’s). Toile de Jouy motifs are reimagined with anime characters in situ.
As a cherry on top, Scott’s finale evening gowns—designed to mimic tiered cakes—act as a tongue-in-cheek take on Marie Antoinette’s famous alleged quote. (Whether or not she actually said “let them eat cake” is besides the point; the confectionery cocktail dresses stand as a sly comment on the denseness of certain people in power).
Of course, in the Moschino timeline, satire and subversion is always envisioned with both grand theater and good humor.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, MOSCHINO, MOSCHINO FW 2020
Tue, February 25 2020 » Fashion Blog
Daywear, tailoring, and femininity are the elements of the new contemporary. Alberta Ferretti Fall Winter 2020/21 collection explores an unconventional fashion through a study of well-tailored daywear. Traditionally, associated with men’s tailoring, checked fabrics were used to reinvent the classic womenswear aesthetic and produce a sharp vision of contemporary femininity.
“I started working on this collection thinking of a woman that was far from the established ideal. I have always focused on promoting femininity, but for this collection I pushed myself further by giving garments the ambassador role for sophisticated, yet sustainable daywear.” says Alberta Ferretti. The collection is essentially composed of a series that seeks solutions for both practical daywear and ethereal eveningwear.
Shirts, jackets, pants and coats that come in checked cashmere, are crafted with tailored cuts and accompanied by newly interpreted denim looks. The sartorial cuts are also used to shape new volumes on sleeves. Additional styles of silk fil coupé shirts and trousers are fashioned alongside chiffon tops and skirts tacked down by embroideries.
Shearling or cashmere coats, brocade dresses and chiffon aprons are also styled with moiré silk trousers. The effect of an exaggerated shape and amplified volume was achieved by ruches finished with hems supported by an internal thread that settles the form, while detaching it from the silhouette.
An elevated colour palette was carefully considered. Shades of grey and tones of black serve as a base, to the red, mauve, purple and blue hues. Coordinated accessories such as leather gloves are accompanied by high boots and voluminous bags in matching checked fabrics.
< (more…)
Tags: ALBERTA FERRETTI, ALBERTA FERRETTI FW 2020, FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020
Tue, February 25 2020 » Fashion Blog
Mon, February 24 2020 » Fashion Blog
Fendi © Copyright 2020
It is behind beauty that sometimes profound truths are hidden. Through the FENDI Women’s Autumn / Winter 2020-2021 Collection, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi delves into the duplicity of the FENDI woman, describing the idiosyncrasies of her powerful femininity. Thus the subversive concept of “soft power” emerges, from the boudoir to the boardroom, expression of a world full of emotions and rituals.
The chromatic and textured contrasts combine shades of gray and warm neutral shades with touches of pastel colors and bright FENDI yellow. Structure and softness reign supreme, bringing to the fore a forbidden balance between severe austerity and sensual abandonment.
Through unusual contrasts and elegant monochromes, an intoxicating mix of cashmere, fur, leather and lace becomes the backbone of this season’s FENDI wardrobe. Tailoring and outerwear are built around a narrow waist; flared military coats, shiny jackets and precious blazers are structured through the bodice, with shoulders that glide to the flat tip or fall into Giulietta sleeves.
The voluptuous forms open in cozy high-necked sweaters, pleated skirts in leather and organza blouses with bib, in contrast with the rigorous lines of the nurse’s collar, the stripes of the male shirt or the details of the quilted satin and felt corset.
Revisiting the animal designs, the leopard-stained paisley peeks over sartorial garments in brushed wool and inlaid fur, embellished with a band of fringed beads or fluorescent apricot Chantilly lace. Sober and provocative at the same time, the FENDI femme fatale cannot give up audacity.
The FENDI Autumn / Winter 2020-2021 accessories collection recreates the atmosphere of the boudoir through the padded leather boots with cage and the satin pumps with strap. Available in three sizes, the new accordion design Peekaboo opens in a big smile, revealing interchangeable internal clutches in smooth and precious leather. It also appears on the catwalk in a version with golden leather fringes or applied lace profiles and pearl tassels.
In collaboration with the London brand of accessories Chaos, designed by Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall, the Maison presents a line of “technological jewels” and small accessories, offering a luxurious response to the daily need to bring your own items. Nothing is missing, from the smartphone cases in woven gold mesh to the perforated FF minaudière, from the smartearplugs to the smartwatch holders.
Leather straps, zip cords and bracelets with links present an assortment of charms with letters of the alphabet, golden lighters and a minimalist set of liqueur glasses. A pen-shaped earring works on both paper and tablets.
The FENDI Women’s Fall / Winter 2020-2021 show takes place on the live notes of SONOIO, an electronic music project by Alessandro Cortini, keyboard player of the acclaimed industrial rock group Nine Inch Nails.
(more…)
Tags: FALL WINTER WOMEN 2020, FENDI, FENDI FW 2020
Mon, February 24 2020 » Fashion Blog
