“Spring 2020 evolves the codes we are building at Bottega Veneta. Our focus is on process and clarity; immediate and direct.” Daniel Lee, Creative Director.
This collection plays with proportion, soft structure cutting through tension and technique with a clean new ease. The balance of colour is calm, bold, rich and defined in black, chocolate brown, gold, tapioca, orange and tones of blue.
Jewellery disrupts the silhouette, weaving through tactile surfaces. Classicism contrasts modernism with refined techniques: knot, weave and knit. Materials feature in their purest form: Wood, gold, lacquer, stone, leather, cotton and the body.
Accessories resonate with the attitude of beauty and comfort. Uncompromising and unstructured, contrasts are essential. Collage, texture and nuance; each a continuous extension of each other. Bottega Veneta embodies warmth, desire, joy and celebration. An elevated reality to live in.
“Bottega Veneta is about the individual, it’s for you.” Daniel Lee, Creative Director.
Tue, September 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
EMANCIPATED EROTIC MOOD
This is N21’s first co-ed women’s and men’s show. The collections come from the will to stretch beyond won ground; from the desire to talk about a natural erotic inclination; and from the need to rethink attitudes so as to indulge a notion of fashion that promotes renewal.
“I wanted to do a co-ed show with the women’s and men’s collections because I care about giving a narrative unity to my idea of fashion. I think Fashion is a unique and global concept and that only a person who wears the clothes expressing it is able to personalize it, namely accord it a gender identity and transfer to it a distinct personality: her or his own. This conviction has always been the springboard for my work method. That’s why the initial inspiration behind this collection is a sense of eroticism that cuts loose from exclusively sexual expressions and becomes a means for speaking through the body. That’s also why I designed the same clothes for women and men, without falling into the no-gender trap, yet having the two genders — female and male — meet in a continual intersection of references re lines, volumes and fabrics. This also affords me the chance to express a disruptive viewpoint: one contrary to the conformism and moralism that in current years have been imposing too many rules on people’s lives and therefore on fashion as well”, says N21 creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
REFERENCES Micro floral print fabrics create androgynous outfits where jackets with wide lapels and ventilated sleeves make a smart match with shorts layered over pants. Print nylon forms parachute dresses. Duchesse serves to define voluminous anoraks with keyhole opening in back. Cady shirts have high collars plus long bow closures at back of neck; both men and women wear these shirts with baggy bermudas. Chiffon plissé skirts are washed, as are leather shirts and gazer jackets, so as to obtain imperfect effects and lighter weights. The masculine weight of knit sweaters is contrasted with allover crystal beading.
ATTITUDE Very elegant, the collection features made to be styled in the wearers own way, making keen use of atelier tricks of the trade: jacket sleeves open up; tops play a morphing game on the torso thanks to clever buttoning; a chiffon dress forgoes sleeves and takes on a slip-dress pose; floppy bows work to construct sheer dresses while flat bows on baby-doll dresses have the look of passementerie; plissé skirts in part leather part chiffon add sensuality to movement; men’s jackets and pants preserve the same cut and fabric in the women’s version; other plissé skirts have wide hems the specific result of washing.
ACCESSORIES Cubic is the name of the sandals with cubic-sculpture heel and split-in-two sole that present the same prints and crystal beads as the clothes in the collection. There are also short pointy-toe medium-heel mannish boots in black, green and brown. A leather envelope bag, often with micro floral print, comes in micro and macro sizes.
Tue, September 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
An arrival in Milano becomes an escape from the city. Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos present their Spring Summer 2020 collection with a dose of solar optimism, swirling with the smudged florals and acid pastels of symbolist painting. Nostalgic, carefree inspirations accumulate in saturated colour and palpable textures, imbuing fresh separates for women and men with a playful elegance somewhere between the ballroom and the beach.
From iridescent to towelling textures, a focus on elevated fabrics in boyish workwear shapes joins the Peter Pilotto vocabulary of ultra-feminine drape – playing crisp and matte cottons off hammered silks, japanese wools, sandy knits and plush terrycloth.
Riffs on polos and bowling shirts contrast the sophistication of corsetry and belted sash volumes, whilst roomy jackets in topstitched damask or stonewash denim are layered with ruched, asymmetric skirts.
Pleated shorts or straight pants push all-over print stories to new heights, as petals and leaves blur against aquarelle washes. Engineered knit pieces breathe as ribbed lurex column skirts, mockneck crop tops and crochet-effect cardigans.
The Peter Pilotto leather goods collection arrives in myriad ice cream tones of nappa and satin, from crescent satchels and rounded backpacks to printed floral totes and double duty mini pouches. As though floating off the body, crystals or opaque stones congregate in celestial jewellery and adorn sparkling stiletto sandals.
Tue, September 24 2019 » Fashion Blog
Boys and Girls
Combining men’s and women’s on this season’s runway, S/S 20 explores duality while continuing to define the concept of easy, elevated wardrobe dressing for the 3.1 global citizen. Utility, youthful tailoring, cut, volume, print and color find commonality in both collections, expressed in distinctly nuanced ways.
Utility and flou engage in harmonious dialogue, highlighting the novel elements introduced this season – new shapes, exaggerated proportions and innovative core fabrics, always building on seasons past. Utility features prominently in day and new evening silhouettes with buoyant shapes for women, and underscores a seasonless, elevated uniform for men, revealing the purposeful construction of a garment’s interior details.
A leather group and a fluid lacquered finish fabric create a soft tailoring effect in womenswear, and subvert traditional menswear, deconstructing tailored pieces and referencing performance sportswear.
A printed group features an over printing technique that creates imperfections in the print and negative space in the garment, revealing beauty in typically hidden spaces. Women’s prints – inspired by Warhol’s Daisy screen prints – are whimsical and abstracted, while men’s prints – inspired by Rauschenberg’s Combines and by old postcards of road travel and the American West – offer a more literal interpretation.
Women’s fil coupé with prints trapped in organza carries over from Pre-Spring 2020, and links back to transparent netting details in this season’s accessories. A slash detail in women’s tailored and knitwear pieces lends movement to utilitarian separates. New women’s shoe styles, including espadrilles and mules, feature cage and mesh transparencies, and stud and ring embellishment details.
The Alexa, a core shoe, is presented in a deconstructed version with cutouts, while the Alix builds on its signature paperclip ornament detail with the addition of two new styles – the Flatform sandal and a slide. The Odita Lattice Pouch is a new addition to the Odita bag family, while the Alix chain bag is updated with a slightly modified shape and new magnetic closure detail.
The brand’s “cool, easy, chic” mantra is further defined for S/S 20 in directional silhouettes, fabrications and styling. “Clothing is our medium, and wardrobe is the medium through which I can communicate values that are important to me: craft, diversity, purpose and hope. These are the values we share at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the values we aspire to that will manifest true beauty.” -Phillip Lim
This season, as ever, we celebrate community and the wider 3.1 Tribe by partnering with like-minded brands who champion beauty with responsibility, and share our pursuit of achieving a sustainable balance. For S/S 20, we are proud to partner with artist and designer Ariana Boussard-Reifel, whose sculptural jewelry is informed by a sense of wanderlust and strong cultural references. Each piece is ethically and sustainably made by hand in her New York studio.
With UZ, a newly launched global beauty brand committed to using safe, sustainably-sourced ingredients that are never tested on animals. With Just Water, a packaged water brand making conscious material choices that help people and the planet. We also continue our partnership with Aveda, a pioneer in championing sustainable, environmentally friendly practices and cruelty-free hair and beauty products.
This season, Aveda and 3.1 Phillip Lim are taking steps to make backstage more beautiful by minimizing single-use plastic, ensuring recycling is readily available and offsetting a portion of the carbon emissions from the show to lessen its environmental impact.
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Rag & Bone unveiled a new concept to celebrate its return to New York Fashion Week, with a showcase of the brand’s spring/summer 2020 collection. The decommissioned stock exchange trading floor at Skylight on Vesey, provided an iconic New York backdrop for an experience that furthers the brands focus on challenging the status quo.
Rag & Bone was born out the desire to create unique products and experiences through the fusion of contrasting aesthetics. No stranger to breaking the mold, the proposition of the brand was brought to life through the collaboration of creative forces tapped from the worlds of fashion, music and technology. This new experience saw each of these disciplines collide while working in perfect harmony.
Drummers Joey Waronker and Mauro Refosco (Atoms For Peace) spotlit on center stage set the tone with The Brooklyn Youth Chorus while two dancers brought the vision of Choreographer Damien Jalet (Suspiria, Anima) to life through movement across the circular runway.
In contrast to the flowing human movements of the performers, a UR10 robot joined the moment, slowly awaking and observing the audience and performers. Together man and machine moved in sync, with video captured by the robot using a live action feed and point cloud capture (computer vision). Broadcast in realtime on screens throughout the space the robotic arm and dual-camera techniques provided the audience with a novel way to see the show.
The Rag & Bone SS20 collection is a journey through different aesthetics and an exploration of brand tenets, American workwear, English inspired tailoring, military and sport. The fusion of these contrasting silhouettes, fabrications and color creates an unexpected mix, resulting in an eclectic offering that is uniquely Rag & Bone.
The attitude of the brand is brought to life through the focus on effortless, easy wearing pieces. With function at the forefront, each stand on their own or mashed up with opposing silhouettes and reference points to provide the wearer with a uniform-like expression of their individuality.
Intentionally swaying away from defining gender, the focus is shifted to the unique identity of each character—with the entirety of the men’s and women’s collections used to create the looks.
The collection opens with bold tailoring and knitwear, refreshed through the use of banker stripes and regalia inspired detailing. Masculine mixes with feminine through the use of oversized Savile Row-esque silhouettes, while tennis sweaters are reconditioned in fisherman-rib knits with bold regalia v-neck stripes, providing versatile pieces for the wearer.
Lighter technical fabrications, layered with scarf-like angular monochrome graphics are seen across dresses, underpinnings and skirts while the brand’s expertise in denim is apparent through the use of washed Japanese selvedge in jeans, shorts, shirting and gilets.
Track style striping and Hawaiian floral-camo prints add pops of color and contrast to the soft hues of Japanese military worked into the offering. Safety orange further brightens the palette with flashes in jackets and pants while soft pinstripe tailoring and seam sealed lightweight outerwear add versatility and comfort from the elements.
The experience was delivered to the audience set to an unexpected musical fusion of the Waronker/Refocsco percussion and the eerily melodic tones of the Brooklyn Youth Chorus, with a rendition of Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman” accompanying the models through the finale.
“Contrasts & Perspectives” was designed to animate the Rag & Bone aesthetic, while amplifying the brand values of creating authentic and innovative experiences through the fusion of contrasting disciplines.
Sun, September 22 2019 » Fashion Blog
Sat, September 21 2019 » Fashion Blog
We engage with systems, scales, and soul. Our commitment to defining the contemporary evolves as a synthesis of moments.
Pliancy is a strength. Enforcing our belief in the value of the human hand, Alyx instrumentalises tradition as technology. Unifying sustainable processes and experimentation, the collection energises affinities between construction, craft, and emotion.
Our technical lexicon is a practical result of attentive, applied thought. In collaboration with Italian tailors, we have established artisanal vocabularies that unite traditional expertise and artistry with new techniques in construction. The individuality of the artwork is found through the hand of the artist.
Knit technologies reframe the relationship between high-performance and comfort, leveraging 3-D printing in a seamless, almost waste-free process. A combination of hand-applied dye and fabric treatments expand the dimension of the collection, and bonded leather establishes a robust material language.
A sculptural detail by Antonia Evans translates a distorted natural form into hardware cast in metal and resin.
Aligning hardware and utility across all categories and collaborations, this collection takes as its drive the manifold present. Evolution is a process of expansion and refinement.
We have spliced the natural characteristics of leather with new technologies. Bonding leather to Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fibre, we have developed a muscular material with a unique structural silhouette. The near waterless dyeing processes of ECCO leather DriTanTM underlines our pursuit of high ecological standards and expands the spectrum of colours to our leathers.
Developed with Italian artisans, a combination of garment dye and fabric treatments shape a multi-step procedure that results in uniquely dimensioned textures and colours.
Details and hardware use raw material sourced from AMF, an entirely sustainable factory. Their commitment to sustainable practice incorporates automated production processes, the use of safe chemicals, and the elimination of waste from natural resources.
Transparency is central in understanding the cycle of a garment. We continue to amplify our role in and obligation to progressive sustainable processes. With Majocchi, we are focused on radical reductions in water waste. With Recover, recycled nylon, AMF, and ECCO leather DriTanTM we present new textiles embedded in stringently recycled materials.
Sun, June 30 2019 » Fashion Blog
For our ultimate collection for KENZO, the Spring-Summer 2020 collection, we looked to the home of our founder Kenzo Takada, and more specifically to the surrounding seas of Japan where groups of strong, tenacious and modern-day super-heroes plunge daily
to retrieve treasures at the bottom of the ocean.
The Ama are groups of Japanese female free divers, who, for over 2000 years have dived to the ocean floor to forage for seafood such as shrimp, urchins or even pearls for their communities. They train from their beginnings as teenagers, taught by their predecessors who can dive well into their 70s.
Due to breath training, Ama can stay underwater for significant amounts of time in one go. Over time their numbers have declined, and these intrepid fisherwomen can now only be found sporadically in pockets along the Japanese coastlines. Withstanding harsh and sometimes freezing temperatures, they have become known as the last mermaids.
Our collections are a tapestry of elements combining traditionally marine associated garments with modern and technical diving gear. For women, neoprene suiting in orange, violet and black are juxtaposed against crushed wet-look jersey tops and dresses. Skirts in mermaid jacquard linens are adorned with pearl buttons while nylon tops in vivid colors of corals have sleeves rolled up to the shoulder.
Transparent suiting complements the prints of shrimp, mermaids and sea lilies. High waisted trousers feature an assembly of embroideries, reminiscent of treasures amassed while diving. Woven ikats feature on either dresses, tops for women or as panelling on shirts and trousers for men. Tailoring in liquid viscose, sun-bleached denims and ikat prints also straddle both collections.
For menswear, hardy rubberised outerwear appears in orange and violet while Hawaïan shirts abound with prints of sea lilies or urchins. Solarised cotton sweaters in indigo or dark greys walk along side tailored jackets with shawl collars and rough edges. Jackets and coats in summer linens feature sailor collars and shorts are made of high frequency lazer-cut nylons. Suits are cropped and boxy and classic ‘K’ shirts feature net panels color blocked in lilac and orange. Net prints appear in dégradé pigments on printed cotton.
In our Fall-Winter 2019 collection for KENZO, we introduced a new bag, ‘The Tali’. We revisit the Tali for Spring-Summer 2020, updating it within the themes of the new collection and we introduce a new smaller version, The Mini Tali. Skins of viper snake resemble fish scales. Dégradés recall the approaching light seen from the bottom of the ocean floor.
Net straps and bumbags mirror the belt pouches used by the Ama to retrieve their rewards. Sunglasses are high performance and feature solarised lenses to protect. For women, traditional Japanese Okobo sandals in the sea-lily print walk alongside scuba sock sandals and a new unisex sneaker style, the scuba inspired K-Wave for men and women.
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Imagining his own Utopian summer, a sensual and indolent season of southbound cruises and explosions of color, Bruno Sialelli’s Lanvin spring / summer 2020 collection ‘Plein Soleil’ is an ode to idleness summer days.
Despite reminiscences of the 50s and 70s – of Marella Agnelli, Lee Radziwill and Bianca Jagger when the ocean was a second skin, the sun a living God, and incessant voyages were de rigour for jet set – the house of Lanvin sets sail on a new journey into the future.
The heart of Lanvin now beats to the tempo of an open era, where gender fluidity and diversity are part of the usual vocabulary as the mix of genres in forty-five menswear and fifteen womenswear silhouettes attest. Sailing between Taormina, Capri and the Greek islands, Sialelli diverts the codes of his “catamaran bourgeoisie” mischievously by opting for a form of naivety in masculinity.
Charming boys wear silk cardigans or oiled short coats with boy scout cotton shorts and gladiator shoes; cargo pants and cross jackets with oversized sailor collars; tunics and bags in XXL nautical pennants are playfully redesigned for the occasion where the emblems of the house – JL initials and daisies – make a discreet appearance in these Lanvin flags. Introduced in Bruno’s first collection for the house, the figure of Babar reappears as a reassuring and twisted fetish of childhood.
Lanvin blue is the main colour for summer. The historical shade of the house (Jeanne Lanvin worked with a palette of 18 different tones) is paired with the colours of the sun and sand – ochres, oranges, tobaccos and yellows. Sialelli looked to the archives for outerwear tailoring – blue wool gazar duffle coats inspired by Jeanne Lanvin couture opera coats – while suits come in striped seersucker or with all-over sequins, effortless chic without dressing up.
Accessories slip naturally into the collection. A sailor’s bag made of canvas, faded by the sea spray, and another in duvet down – as spectacular as they are ingenious – are essential companions to the bag of the season, the Hook Bag. Adorned with delicate leather marquetry and hand-painted hot air balloons, this season’s Hook Bags telescope between authenticity and refinement, between sensuality of the street and ultra-elegance.
Art deco pendants borrow from an art deco motif found in Jeanne Lanvin’s bathroom; malachite crocodile shaped cuffs shine brightly between travel inspired oversized charm necklaces with miniature suitcases and explorer tools.
Following in the steps of Jeanne Lanvin, a fashion pioneer who explored the world in her time – Venice, Toledo, Egypt and the Borromean Islands – Lanvin girls head out from Capri to Goa in long, silk, psychedelic printed dresses giving an Indian allure to the Lanvin women’s silhouettes. Like Lanvin men, they adopt a relaxed and luxurious approach, effortless and refined.
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog
Hermès © Copyright 2019
HE STRIDES THROUGH THE SUMMER WITH CONFIDENCE AND LIGHTNESS
His summery nonchalance flourishes in ample and generous volumes, which convey a sense of happy freedom. Fluid and airy materials make him feel laid-back and some pieces are even reversible. Here, the emblematic materials are reinvented in total simplicity with ingenuity and know-how.
The silk scarves, in their original tones or overdyed, are assembled in cheerful and relaxed configurations on jackets and shirts. His journey leaves the memory of a relaxed and spontaneous silhouette. Mint, aqua, plum, and bubble gum pink are the invigorating and colourful flavours of his summer.
Khaki, mint, celadon, lagoon, aqua, plum, bubble gum pink, tobacco, rust, corn, desert, sand, silex, hemp, foam, white.
LINES AND FABRICS
Blousons with ribbing and straight blousons with knit collars, coats in rubberised lambskin, contrasted lining and waxed edges. Blousons with V neck in knit, sweatshirts with hood and over-shirts with short sleeves in velvet lambskin and smooth lambskin inlays.
Straight blousons with detachable collar, zipped coats with zig-zag topstitching and pleated trousers, belt with snap-on tabs in Étrivière lambskin. Sweatshirts and jogging trousers in fleecy metis goatskin. Parkas and windbreakers with zipped high collar in crinkled technical canvas with checks or in water-repellent Toilight with mini-gingham or checks.
Zipped over-shirts with short sleeves and sweatshirts in braided cotton voile. Zipped parkas and sweatshirts with hood in technical cotton gabardine with zig-zag topstitching. Zipped sweatshirts with hood and cardigans in water-repellent cotton weave in striped Ottoman. Windbreakers with zipped high collar in raised technical corduroy cotton.
Three-button shirt-jackets, zipped blousons and large shirts in silk scarf patchwork, original version or overdyed. Three-button jackets in water-repellent Toilight with mini-gingham or checks, or reversible checks / mini-gingham. Three-button jackets in crepe cotton serge. Three-button jackets, double patch pockets, in crepe cotton serge or crinkled checks.
Oversize pullovers and cardigans in cotton and cashmere, embroidered with lambskin. High neck pullovers in cashmere and silk, été indien drawing. Tee-shirts with Tunisian collar and cardigans in crepe cotton with offset colours. Étude pour un carré tee-shirts with short sleeves in cashmere. Tank tops in cotton crepe.
Shirts with baseball neckline, shirts with pockets and drawstring high collar, blouson-shirts with short sleeves and transformable collar, in plain cotton poplin. Collarless shirts, with blouson collar or baseball neckline in crepon cotton.
Large shirts with supple collar or high collar in cotton poplin with stick stripes, in washed silk or in graph cotton weave. Shirts with drawstring high collar in graph cotton weave. Tee-shirts in cotton jersey and unframed overdyed silk scarf.
Large trousers with double tour belt in cotton drill, in cotton serge, in stretch cotton serge or in denim. Pleated trousers and belt with snap-on tabs in cotton drill, in cotton serge or in technical cotton gabardine. Trousers with elastic waist in cotton serge, in crackled or striped cotton poplin. Pleated Bermuda shorts in cotton serge.
Thu, June 27 2019 » Fashion Blog