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DIOR FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Dior Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Dior Fashion Show FW 2018

 

“The sixties were about personalities. It was the rst time when mannequins became personalities. It was a time of great goals, an inventive time…. and these girls invented themselves.”
Diana Vreeland

Anniversaries can be triggers for exceptional memories. Remembering is also about reinventing and imagining. Fifty years after the momentum of urgency and creativity that the year 1968 brought, this is an opportunity for Maria Grazia Chiuri to revive an era when the rules of fashion were turned on their head. Indeed, thanks to this emulation which stimulated the emergence of new ideas, creativity for creativity’s sake, the cut-up technique and travel as a means of discovering others but also oneself, youth occupies a place at the centre of the scene.

For this Autumn-Winter 2018-2019 Ready-to-Wear collection, the Artistic Director of Dior was guided by these symbols and attitudes representing a search for authenticity. Magni cent woollen embroideries appear on organza dresses, jeans are reworked and printed, bags are inspired by the House’s archives, with an ethnic shoulder strap or patchworks made of fabrics drawn from the same heritage: these pieces become veritable windows on the world. Ponchos are worn freely. Ornamentation becomes important, acting as ambassadors of the different cultures each type represents. The collection evolves in a spirit of freedom as much in its creation as in its associations, shapes and materials.

This act of cutting loose and choosing one’s own image is precisely what Maria Grazia Chiuri sets out for the women of today. Kilts come in different lengths, but also in unexpected materials like point d’esprit, and are paired with masculine jackets or small coats. The abundant knitwear is also embroidered and hugs the body. Dresses have been shortened and are worn over biker-inspired thigh boots. Her sharp fashion instinct guides the designer throughout this return to a singular and incredible time, because changing the world also means changing clothes.

It was Diana Vreeland, the charismatic editor-in-chief of Vogue US from 1963 to 1971, who coined the term Youthquake and de ned the Youthquakers. The times were changing, as were the bodies, faces, attitudes and personalities of those who initiated this sartorial revolution – an earthquake that forever changed the way we dress. Fashion was being questioned, but constantly reinventing itself to tell a new story that could say everything and its opposite. Moreover, when a group of young women in miniskirts held a protest on 12 September 1966 in front of the Dior boutique with placards bearing the maxim ‘Mini Skirts Forever’, as shown in a photo from the time, Marc Bohan, then Artistic Director of Dior, came up with the Miss Dior collection and reinterpreted the idea of femininity as shaped by Christian Dior.

In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, on the other hand, openly counterbalances the return of the uniform, to bring us back to what it signi es: the individual taking precedence over gender differences, and the equality of rights and roles which remains the great conquest of that time.

 

FW 2018-19 Dior Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Dior
Woman FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Dior
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Dior
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MAISON MARGIELA FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Maison Margiela Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Maison Margiela propels its vision forward to an innate new language and wardrobe based on the vocabulary established through the Artisanal collection. Dressing in reverse is an idea as subversive as relaxed glamour: a trench coat worn casually under a dress, a jumper thrown over a blazer, or the glimpse of a fisherman’s knit under a transparent skirt. For Autumn – Winter 2018, creative director John Galliano examines the inverted wardrobe established at Maison Margiela.

The silhouettes of Haute Couture are clarified in garments realized in sculpturally magnified volumes. Outerwear transforms into dresses when dressing in haste. It’s a nylon coat worn under a décortiqué leather jacket, or a deconstructed salopette layered over a trench coat. Seducing the eye, illusionary materials create memories of the familiar.

A transparent hologram coat encasing multi-coloured layers of viscose fringing, tulle and organza evokes the codes of rodeo. A grey melange décortiqué jacket is encrusted with the memory of an Aran knit cast in rubber. Fusions of authentic wardrobe staples appropriate the inappropriate. It’s illustrated in the bonding of a herringbone blazer with a fisherman’s knit, or in a twill skirt embossed with the memory of a rodeo skirt. In a play between layers, transparency and reflection, garments become transformative and generate a sense of unconscious glamour.

Materials

Drawing on the Artisanal collection, holographic and transparent materials take centre stage. Iridescent foil, nylon, reflective flash-sensitive fabric and changeant react to light and movement, effectively shape-shifting on the body. Layered under poly-urethane, tulles and organza liquefy into three-dimensional forms encouraged by the texture of viscose fringing. The effect is echoed in the use of chiffon, voile and georgette. Heritage materials sourced from the men’s wardrobe – herringbone, cavalry twill, gabardine, wool of Aran knits – counter the collection’s technical character and instil a sense of authenticity. Leather appears in outerwear such as cabans and fringed décortiqué rodeo jackets.

Technique

Notions of relaxed glamour and dressing backwards inform cuts and silhouettes. The hybridisation of classic wardrobe staples calls for bonding and embroidery, employed throughout the collection such as in the fusion of knitwear with tailoring. Outerwear encases layers of materials to create new images through depth. Moulded rubber bears the recollection of knitwear, while formage – the three-dimensional embossing of twill – creates the imprinted memory of rodeo pieces.

Prints of similar motifs appear in multiple colours on transparent fabric layered to create a transformative filtrage. Cementing a house code, décortiqué – the reduction of a garment to its core – is exercised in outerwear similarly alluding to the memory of traditional items of clothing.

Palette

Heritage tones from the humble men’s wardrobe such as charcoal, beige, melange, off-white and black are offset by the boldness of security yellow, Klein blue and fuchsia. Greens and royal purple further add to a Technicolor palette nodding to the iridescence of the technical materials used in the collection.

Accessories

Inspired by the way in which contemporary tech gadgets serve as extensions of the body, jewellery takes on a prosthetic feel. Ear cuffs and tube rings in rubber and hand cuffs in rubber or chrome-plated brass follow the contours of the body, while diamonté brooches and earrings embellish the anatomy like growing organisms. Nodding to the idea of jewellery display cards, brooches are mounted on acetate boards. Chain belts in brass or rubber-coated metal link to rodeo.

Introduced in the Artisanal collection, the Margiela sneaker features in high-top and low-top editions, while the cloud-like Glam Slam bag appears in a new iridescent form.

 

FW 2018-19 Maison Margiela Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Maison Margiela
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TOMMY NOW DRIVE SPRING 2018 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Tommy Now Drive Fashion Show Spring 2018 Milan
Tommy Now Drive Fashion Show Spring 2018

 

Ciao, Milano. The TOMMYNOW fashion experience is roaring into town with the greatest hits of our Spring 2018 collection. It’s cool, confident and every look is instantly shoppable.

We pay tribute to Tommy’s longtime love of racing, fusing our American heritage with modern athleticism for him and her. There are unique plays on proportion and shape; unexpected twists on our icons; and graphic interpretations of speed stripes, checkerboard and archival logos.

Our pioneering spirit is ignited by our partnership with Formula One World Champions Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport, pushing the boundaries of immersive experiences while remaining accessible to all with the TOMMYNOW SNAP app. Let’s go.

TOMMYNOW “DRIVE” marked the global launch of the Spring 2018 TommyXGigi capsule collection. International supermodel Gigi Hadid is the global brand ambassador for TOMMY HILFIGER womenswear, including apparel, footwear, accessories, sunglasses, watches, and fragrance. The TommyXGigi collaborative collection celebrates speed – from Tommy’s love of motorsports to Gigi’s fast-paced lifestyle.

Following the success of the Fall 2017 TOMMYNOW event, the brand continues to democratize the runway and showcase looks from both HILFIGER COLLECTION men’s and women’s.

 

Spring 2018 Tommy Now Drive Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Tommy Now Drive
Man Spring 2018 Fashion Show Tommy Now Drive
Spring 2018 Menswear Tommy Now Drive
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TRUSSARDI FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Trussardi Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Trussardi Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Family as tribe. The fast modernity of Milan, with no nostalgia. And the cult of Italian savoir-faire, from the quality of the materials to the mental attitude of doing everything well and with style. Multi-ethnic, unrestrained by function or role, the Trussardi Fall Winter 2018/19 Men’s and Women’s Collection is writing a new aesthetic language dedicated to an urban gang of guys and girls, fictional and yet real, caught between tradition and contemporary revolutions. An antithesis? No, just the opposite: their way of dressing, their clothing is in fact the synthesis, the crasis, perhaps the solution to continuity between these two worlds.

First of all the Trussardi clothing collection, where each piece become elements: the oversize coat constructed to perfection, the trousers with a wide, perfect line, the fluid skirt with a split, the essential knitwear, the sartorial Blazer, the Biker jacket. And the leather: of the highest quality, handmade or glittery, brightened up with prints or woven into tartan patterns. And again embellished with markings like imaginary punctuation.

These are the milestones of Trussardi style, intentionally timeless, that shatter the distinction between city and mountains, daywear and casualwear. The tartan comes in all sizes, from micro to macro, popping up in every category, from day to evening. Prints of mountains or skiers go from the most athletic pieces to sleek eveningwear, overturning classic usage. And the colours, chosen from the shades of light that separate dawn from day and dusk from night, lend new depth to the iconic pieces in the collection.

The silhouettes are all vertical, large, often highlighting the waist with an air of solemnity. The lines, on the other hand, are fluid, fast and dynamic. It is a style oxymoron that can bring together agility and sophistication, references from yesterday’s wardrobe and the disenchanted attitude of today’s metropolitan tribes.

THE ACCESSORIES

Accessories are the frame for making the message even clearer. Maxi unisex pouches and backpacks in technical fabrics. Extra-large shoppers in printed leather or personalised with embroidered logos and fur details. The bag with a three-compartment interior in various colours and interchangeable straps is the result of the finest Italian craftsmanship.

The greyhound is stylised and becomes a new thin closure with a dual purpose: a shoulder strap or top handle. Finally the shoes: the men’s model, iconic and very traditional with the tongue and two side buckles, lends its form to the ladies’ new mid heel styles. And for the men, deck shoes, another icon from the classic wardrobe, are revisited in a creative way that overturns the boundary between sportswear and formal wear.

 

FW 2018-19 Trussardi Fashion Show
Man Model Fashion Show Trussardi
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Trussardi
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Trussardi
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PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Concept
Lorenzo Serafini began this collection by considering a period in which the United States was at the peak of its self-assurance, dynamism and power – the edge of the the 1970’s and the opening years of the 1980’s.

“I love the exuberant vivaciousness of American style at this time. And it seems so relevant to 2018/2019 to try and capture some the moment’s finest characteristics. Delicacy and strength, powerful romanticism, wholesome glamour – there were no contradictions, only confidence”, says Lorenzo Serafini.

With Margaux Hemingway as his muse-in-chief, Serafini’s lens blends Park Avenue with the prairies. His eye travels from Aspen to Wichita, from New Mexico to New York. The style is democratic: denim stands alongside tulle, leather with lace, taffeta with tailoring.  It’s All American – the best of then for now.
 
Collection
Fringed linesman shearling over a textured knit union suit, with ruffle-collared shirting and a narrow leather belt. Gray flannel pants under lace collared cable-knit cashmere. Soft power shoulders in prairie dresses in silk chiffon plus tailoring in wool cashmere. A black velvet tracksuit over buckle-fastened, Ribbon tied, embroidered polka dot tulle top with lace fringing.

A spaghetti strapped velvet bodiced black puff skirt. Double breasted all in one tuxedo suits in slick lacquered satin or dark wool flannel. Tulip skirts in rose-printed blue velvet or lacquered satin. Frothy-collared shirts over steel toed, stacked heel boots. Faux fur chubbies. Boiled cashmere pants under soft wool top coats.

A pink on blue argyle silk chiffon maxidress and a yellow rose-print lace-edged minidress. Philosophy’s shoe of the season is the Axl, a mid-heel bootee heaped with hand-tooled metalwork and turquoise detailing realized in collaboration with the Swedish designer Emelie Törling for Leontine.

 

FW 2018-19 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
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ANTONIO MARRAS FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show
Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show Look 1
Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show Look 2
Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show Look 3
Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show Look 4
Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2018-19 Fashion Show Look 5
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Ferragamo Autumn Winter 2018 marks a new chapter for the historic fashion house. Paul Andrew presents his inaugural collection as women’s creative director, joining Guillaume Meilland as design director for men’s.

This collection finds motivation in the frayed edges of modern decadence: a party once thought endless in the twilight hours jolting to reality at the first light of dawn. A new construct of dressing emerges: familiar forms are stripped back, loosened and elongated with ease and elevated functionality. Traditional silhouettes are expertly dissolved for a contemporary take on formal codes. Materials are unrivaled: from plush leathers to Italian wool fabrics, to heavy silk twill and soft cottons.

Broad strokes of colour were the starting point; merlot reds and mustard yellows mix expertly with parakeet green and deep vatican blue between hints of nude and blush. Footwear, the keystone of ferragamo’s storied history, is the seed of a collection that was purposefully visualized from the ground up.

The women’s collection channels the refined ease of Ferragamo’s legacy lit up with vigorous freshness. Leather is the fundamental material, in calfskin coats with impossibly soft cashmere lining and pull-on knee-high boots innabuk andostrich. Trousers in buttery nappa leather and wool-silk blends are exactingly cropped to pull focus downward to the shoe.

Knits are designed to complement leather pieces: from cashmere sweater dresses to ponchos. Shirt-dresses are fabricated from the material of silk foulards sourced from the archive. Galvanized block heels molded in three heights — whose metallic glazing was finished in automobile factories — have been sourced from archival 1930s-era Ferragamo styles. Merino shearling knee-high boots are dyed green and red like 70s shag pile carpeting and lined internally with lusciously soft calfskin.

Menswear is an elevated take on the utilitarian: authentic pieces have been restudied and revised with innovative construction. Shirting in silk twill, wool, leather and shearling — featuring hand-stitched finishing by master tailors — forms the anchor of the collection, echoing the womenswear pieces. Layering brings fluidity to a winter wardrobe.

Cotton bonded rain coats are updated in a relaxed, streamlined silhouette; inside, printed silk lining introduces a sly hint of hidden pattern. An english donkey jacket, lengthened and oversized from the original, is designed in double wool- cashmere with leather shoulders.

The all-new ‘the studio bag’ in crocodile, ostrich, shearling and soft calf is in great company next to petite camera bags and roomy overnighters with printed lining taken from cravat fabrics. The doppio gancini, Ferragamo’s iconic logo, is represented in ornamental hardware: oversized on triple-cuoio soled men’s shoes and at the waist as women’s belts.

 

Man FW 2018-19 Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Salvatore Ferragamo
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Salvatore Ferragamo
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MSGM FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Msgm Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Msgm Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Il futuro non è scritto!

So, let’s remix the past with panache!

For autumn winter 2018-2019, MSGM presents an electro love letter to Milan: the passion, the power, and the cocktail hour. Cast on the city streets, real girls go for all out glamour in glossy black, candy pink, Campari red, peacock blue, and a squeeze of lime with their wipe-clean patent trouser suits, hi-rise denim, and faux python ‘flou’.

But who is Alessandro? Well, Manzoni, of course. The novelist’s portrait and prose adorns prints and patterns, whilst our favourite Milano haunts – Bar Basso, Pasticceria Cucchi, Jamaica, and Pravda vodka bar – are immortalized in football scarves and graphic jacquard sweaters.

On crepe shirtdresses: futurist manifestos, deco chains, neon animalia, and the new Milan skyline form a swirling cacophony of print, as chromatic satin blouses twin whit box-pleat skirts or straight leg trousers. Padded floral coats, quilted satin and ballooning crinkled windcheaters create sophisticated volumes in sporty textiles. Mini ‘M’ bag purses are paired with bright leather shoppers for a ladylike twiste.

In a 90’s throwback, Diego Dolcini’s cult lock sandal is reimagined for MSGM as pointed ankle and sandal is reimagined for MSGM as pointed ankle and thigh high boots, whilst metallic tractor boots.

 

FW 2018-19 Msgm Fashion Show
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ETRO FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Etro Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Etro Fashion Show FW 2018

 

FOLK DECO

For Autumn 2018 Etro takes a journey to the land of the endless horizon. For this collection, Veronica Etro found inspiration in the long shadows and dusty colourscapes of wide western landscapes wrapped up in the graphic sensibilities of European decorative arts. Bold patterns are inspired by the intricate art deco tapestries, the enameled jewelry boxes and the colour blocking of Italian postmodern architecture. This collection exists in a cosmic prairie dreamworld unlocked only by
Etro’s bohemian wonder.

This collection relies largely on print for visual complexity. The patterns on each garment were mapped with mathematical precision and 3D modeled by hand to achieve the exact placement of every geometric ruffle, graphic border and billowing printed scarf. Weightless silk georgette and crêpe are elevated to the architectural via the intensely complicated processes used to create these fluttering, ethereal gowns. Printed chenille is used on fringed cardigans and wraparound dresses. Knitwear is the highlight of the season with masterfully crafted coats, capes, dresses and ponchos. The weight of suede and faux fur coats is broken up with panels of intarsia knit patterned wool. Chunky knits are flipped inside out on cropped jumpers to expose intricate stitching; jacquard stripes on fluid blanket coats are trimmed with suede fringe.

Patterns range from graphic checkerboard detailing to sweeping mirage-like landscapes. Traditional Etro paisley has been interpreted in multiple ways: ethnic with the chiné technique, bandana effect, manual in black and white or cosmic with stars. This iconic print is found throughout the collection, alongside wallpaper florals, stripes, fifties-style hearts and arrows and naïve patchworks. Art Deco montages with wide colour surfaces are sourced from 1920s era carpets. Colours are dusty and warm, inspired by prairie landscapes: sage green, chocolate, apricot, burnt orange, peacock, night blue, mustard, tobacco, powdery brick and reddish lobster tones.

Silhouettes are intensely romantic: prim gowns have high collars, fitted bodices and endless ruffled edging. Suede lattice trims collars for a weightier contrast to impossibly light textiles, while wispy tiered dresses bring an element of movement. Dresses and coats are designed with built-in scarves for a voluminously wrapped effect. Wide-legged leather trousers in chocolate and amber shades are cuffed at the bottom or cut short. Printed cashmere jogging suits are designed with loose trousers and fitted camisole tops and butter yellow pyjamas are bursting with floral prints. A tailored suit in paisley jacquard, alongside western style shirting with cascading printed fringe, add a more masculine note to an otherwise decidedly feminine collection.

Accessories find inspiration in arts and craft traditions. Fringed leather saddlebags with braided straps are decorated with needlepoint designs or patchwork velvet and felt. Colourfully embroidered belts are cinched with brass, silver or faux bone belt buckles. Jewellery is restrained but chunky: turquoise, coral and tiger’s eye stones are found on accessories and drop earrings set in molded silver. Heavy silver 1920s-era tank bracelets are designed to be piled up and palm-sized heart and arrows brooches are pinned to lapels, mirroring prints found on silk dresses. Soaring heels are stacked on both cropped and knee-high gaucho boots in soft calfskin leather or suede in caramel, taupe and amber. Wrapped around shoulders are blanket-like knitted shawls with wide suede fringe and colourful ponchos.

 

FW 2018-19 Etro Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Etro
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Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Etro
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SPORTMAX FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – MILAN FASHION WEEK

Sportmax Fashion Show FW 2018 Milan
Sportmax Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Sportmax is poised on the starting line with a Winter 2018 collection made of luxurious and high-tech fa- brics. Sportmax is ready to race down the snowy slopes and icy sidewalks of the super cities of the world.

From Courchevel to Milan, from Gstaad to New York, from Cortina to London and from Aspen to Paris, the chromatic range of the latest must-haves emerge in decidedly color block style: the neutral tones inspi- red by men’s wardrobe are mixed to sporty green, red, yellow and blue. The logo becomes a shield: SPX. In addition, like a sports team bib “Sportmax since 1969” pops up on boots as a reminder of the brand’s upcoming anniversary.

Five decades dedicated to design are a true milestone and they mark the brand’s never-ending irt between fashion and comfort. A back ip tosses us back to the 80s with wide-shouldered puffer coats made of goose down combined with the latest in technological fabrics.

A collection of quasi- in nite proposals for the cooler months that feature a range of lengths along with outerwear, hoods and removable quilted collars which transform the looks of coats, jackets and sweaters with the use of layers. Between the leggings and stretch ski pants, the pants are often à trompette.

The skirts and dresses, from pleated to narrow to even ared, are fastened with zippers in order to show off or hide everything, depen- ding on the mood. Classic lines and technical design come together in every look. The concept of mo- vement dominates the remix of cashmere, nylon, wool, viscose, lurex and technical jersey. The menswear fabrics are lined with wool or nylon.

The houndstooth weave is coated with a high-tech veil giving it more light. The jacquards become lightweight with the addition of acetate or viscose inserts. The sweatshirt steps out in jersey or cashmere and satin, combined with high-tech materials, shows off its sensual side.

The exibility of the body and soul is featured in the high-performance knitwear that shapes the silhouette with sweaters cut like the uniforms of ski teachers. The turtlenecks illuminate the face with their diamond motifs, giving the sense of a foulard at the neck.

Brogues, short booties, over-the-knee cuissards and shoes with rubber-treaded soles facilitate movement across wet and frozen surfaces whether sporting a belt bag on the hip or a mini bag in the hand.

The extreme combination between classics and technology de nes the new attitude of Sportmax.

 

FW 2018-19 Sportmax Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Sportmax
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Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Sportmax
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