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MARC JACOBS FALL WINTER 2018 WOMEN’S COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Marc Jacobs Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Marc Jacobs Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Huge flourishes, gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics from double faced cashmeres, meltons and tweeds to faille, moirés, iridescent and flocked taffetas, radzimir, velvet and wrap print satins.

From sharp hats and even sharper haircuts to flamboyant shoes, the in-between include huge scarves, stoles, extravagant neck, waist and hip flourishes, studded clutches, suede buckets and iridescent quilted nylon sport bags.

Our ‘see-quins glam glitter’ eye shadow is impulsively swept across lids in the deepest, darkest glimmering jeweled tones. Lacquered nails in our high-shine ‘enamored’ nail polish matches eye shadows.

Face framing geometric haircuts by Guido Palau complement the meticulously colored hair in this collection’s tones by Josh Wood.

 

FW 2018-19 Marc Jacobs Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Marc Jacobs
Woman FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Marc Jacobs
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Marc Jacobs
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Marc Jacobs
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

BOTTEGA VENETA FALL WINTER 2018 COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Bottega Veneta Fashion Show FW 2018 Womenswear

 

From Milan to Manhattan. This season, Bottega Veneta presents its Fall / Winter 2018 women’s and men’s collections for one season only in New York City to celebrate the opening of the new Maison flagship store at 740 Madison Avenue.

With its longtime motto “When your own initials are enough,” Bottega Veneta has always celebrated fierce individualism. The idea takes flight in homage to the spirit of New York women and men who are free to fearlessly express themselves in a city that’s seen everything. “New Yorkers have a real bravery and boldness,” says Tomas Maier. “Nothing stops them. Nothing seems impossible.” For women, that means a wardrobe filled with unexpected textures and a vast palette of unique colors. The look is finished off with statement-making boots on a pavement-friendly low heel and a bag that’s both an artisanal masterpiece and pragmatic essential like the Palio Fringe Tote. For men, it means the sophisticated eccentricity of animal print shirting, harlequin checked tailoring and brashly patterned socks worn with “corduroy” suede loafers in jewel hues.

The collection explores the various facets of life in New York, including the necessary escape from the city’s intense whirl of activity, whether to the wilderness of the country or the serenity of one’s home. “I was thinking about the way of life in the city, which goes from one extreme to another” says Maier. “It’s hyper-motion and then it falls into almost total seclusion.” The Fall/Winter collection includes clothes that are designed to exist in the comfort of a beautifully appointed apartment—floral pajama silks for both men and women, and ethereally soft evening dresses, for women, that can both lounge and live it up.

The runway set is also defined by contrast and curating a world of one’s own. In this case, it’s the merger of New York and Italy, seen in a stark Brutalist backdrop filled with sensual Italian design—both iconic vintage pieces and Bottega Veneta’s Furniture collection. That eclectic mix echoes the Maison, our new permanent home in New York which is designed to be as comfortable as your own. “The Maison is inspired by the city in which it’s located, but it’s filled with Italian-made products and even Italian art,” explains Maier. “The idea of provenance is so important in the world of Bottega Veneta. The brand comes from a specific place that tells you a story. I wanted to bring that idea of a sense of place to our new store.”

The overarching vision of the season is rooted in architecture—a long-time passion of Tomas Maier and a defining ideal of the brand—drawing inspiration from the iconic and modern structures that are unmistakably New York. From there, Maier extracts the detail of the cube as a motif that weaves its way through the women’s and men’s collections. “It’s like a brick,” says Maier. “We use it to build the foundation.”

The perfect simplicity of the geometric form is utilized to create graphic patterns with surreal shifting perspectives. For women, it’s evident in richly hued intarsia silk dresses, lush shearling coats and on iconic bags including The Lauren 1980 and The Knot Clutch. Used in this season’s women’s jewelry, the cube turns earrings, rings and cuffs into artful sculpture in miniature. For men, there are joyously colorful intarsia patterns on felted grey cashmere crewnecks and jackets pieced together with precise, knife-sharp cubic forms.

The cube is an evolution of The Intrecciato Checker square introduced last spring. The checker continues for Fall/ Winter. The new women’s bag this season, a drum-shaped zippered tote called The Tambura comes in a variety of checker workmanships including Intrecciato Abstract and Paisley Checker. The men’s Intrecciato Checker Totes of spring are recast for fall in bolder colors. The most compelling new men’s bag for fall, however, comes in solid nappa. The MI-NY is a shoulder duffle designed with thoughtful and instinctive functionality to be the ultimate travel bag.

The cube’s architectural boldness is balanced with subtlety as Maier translates the sparkle of the skyline with a delicate silver chain embroidery that has a clever trompe l’oeil effect. It appears at first to be a top-stitch or windowpane pattern on tailored jackets, while bestowing a blink-and-miss twinkle on dense plaid coats. “It’s a very Bottega Veneta detail,” says Maier. “You have to get up close to the product to discover and appreciate it.”

 

FW 2018-19 Bottega Veneta Women Fashion Show
Woman Model Fashion Show Bottega Veneta
Woman FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Bottega Veneta
Fall 2018-19 Womenswear Bottega Veneta
Woman Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Bottega Veneta
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

RAF SIMONS FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Raf Simons Fashion Show FW 2018 New-York
Raf Simons Fashion Show FW 2018

 

‘Youth In Motion’

Christiane F. – Uli Edel’s visceral 1981 film (based on Christiane Felscherinow, Kai Hermann and Horst Rieck’s book Christiane F. – Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo) has long occupied a pivotal place in Raf Simons’ imagination. Simons, like many Europeans of his generation, was exposed to the harrowing world of Christiane F. in high school, where the film and the book were discussed as a part of the curriculum. Set in late 1970s, cold war-era Berlin – the Berlin of David Bowie’s Low, Heroes and Lodger – Christiane F. ultimately remains a cautionary tale, one that unashamedly and unapologetically depicts the realities of drug use and addiction. Images of Detlev and Christiane F., the film’s anti-heroes – as played by first-time actors Thomas Haustein and Natja Brunckhorst – populate ‘Youth In Motion’ as emotional markers for the persistent relevance – socially and psychologically – of Christiane F.’s story and Edel’s film.

Elsewhere Simons counters the often brutal nature of Christiane F.’s adolescence with sardonic texts drawn from Cookie Mueller (1949-1989) and Glenn O’Brien’s (1947-2017) ‘lost’ mid-1980s tragic-comic play Drugs, another kind of cautionary tale that chronicles the “chemical entanglements” of its straight-out-of-central-casting protagonists. The utilitarian design of the 2016 edition of Drugs (The Kingsboro Press/For The Common Good) – published with yellow and orange covers – is a recurring visual motif throughout ‘Youth In Motion’, as are Simons’ subsequent adaptations of its ‘basic’ design to create a series of applied, color-coded patches that index, in a deadpan manner akin to the Periodic Table, the abbreviated names of narcotic substances: ‘LSD’, ‘XTC’, ‘GHB’ and ’2C-B’, each with their own specific generational and (sub)cultural associations.

‘Youth In Motion’ implies movement – across space and time, and between inner and external realities – and draws freely from the lexicons of art, cinema, literature, music, the counter culture and the ‘attitude’ of couture. ‘Youth In Motion’ is presented in a mise-en-scene that echoes the salons of mid-century couture houses: the discrete number of models employed, the numbering system that identifies specific looks, and the opulent tableaux (food, drink, and flowers), itself reminiscent of a Flemish still-life. ‘Youth In Motion’ contrasts the volume and extravagant materiality of couture (evident in Simons’ use of satin duchesse) with the more utilitarian manners of pocketed ‘space’ pants and hooded tabards with their indexical narcotic references.

Ultimately, ‘Youth In Motion’ seeks to neither glorify nor condone the culture(s) of drugs; rather Simons seeks instead to consider the persistent, almost ubiquitous presence of narcotics (prescribed or otherwise) within our society and acknowledge our often conflicted relationships with them; in turn opening up a more nuanced dialog around the implications for a society where addiction and the causes of addiction remain largely taboo subjects, with – as both Christiane F. and the current opioid crisis demonstrate – often untold human consequences.

Part of the proceeds from sales of the ‘Youth In Motion’ collection will be donated to organizations that support those in recovery from addiction. Food from the presentation of ‘Youth In Motion’ will be donated to City Harvest: “Rescuing Food For New York’s Hungry”. To learn more, visit www.cityharvest.org.

Raf Simons would like to acknowledge everyone involved with the book and film adaptation of Christiane F. – Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo for their commitment to and enthusiasm for this collaboration. He would also like to acknowledge the representatives of Cookie Mueller and Glenn O’Brien as well as The Kingsboro Press / For The Common Good for their permission to incorporate elements of Mueller and O’Brien’s play Drugs in ‘Youth In Motion.’

 

FW 2018-19 Raf Simons Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Raf Simons
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Raf Simons
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Raf Simons
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

VALENTINO FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Valentino Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Valentino Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild 75008 Paris January 17th, 2018

Romanticism: a subtle subversion of interiority laid bare. Giving shape to the freedom of being oneself, without labels and without belongings. Grace as a way of being and as a mean of expression.

Aristopunk: the delicate rebellion that sprouts from awareness. Breaking the schemes, bringing what is known to unknown territories to making it conventional. The extraordinary that becomes ordinary.

Free associations give meaning to new uniforms. Sleight adjustments are individual quivers on dry and vertical figures. The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base.

The short bomber, the down jackets, created in collaboration with Moncler, the nylon messenger bag and the white sneakers as elements of a revised urban repertoire. Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive and constructive artistry leads the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine, making it normal.

A binding sequence of blue, black and grey. Unexpected and interior, harmonies of off tones of turquoise, dark green, mint green and purple. Romanticism as an authentic urgency to show oneself for what one is, not a garrulous ostentation of how one would like to appear.

Authentic rebellion has a grace. It does not scream, it is a state of mind.
#ValentinoMenFW1819

 

FW 2018-19 Valentino Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Valentino
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Valentino
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Valentino
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Valentino
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Tue, February 20 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

HERMÈS FALL WINTER 2018 MEN’S COLLECTION – PARIS FASHION WEEK

Hermès Fashion Show FW 2018 Paris
Hermès Fashion Show FW 2018

 

Open air, warmth, generous volumes. Playful natural fabrics and technical materials. Eveningwear with mineral nuances, large and small polka dots.

Colours
Grey, navy, greyish green, chrome green, quartz, black. Bright overtones: royal blue, hazelnut, oxidized green, raspberry, cobalt, mahogany, chartreuse, bubble gum pink.

Lines
Wraparound coats, double-breasted coats, three-button coats. Parkas, trench coats with removable collars in sheepskin, blousons with ribbing, straight blousons, hooded blousons, sweat-shirts, blousons with knitted shawl collars, blousons with a bomber spirit. Straight or double-breasted suits, three-button jackets, double-breasted jackets, padded jackets with drawstring back and staggered topstitching.

Pullovers with round collars, oversize pullovers, raglan pullovers with buttoned collars, high neck pullovers. Shirts with straight collars, shirts with supple collars, shirts with high neck contrasted collars, shirts with ridged ribbing, shirts with playful pleats. Very narrow trousers, wide trousers with elastic waist and leather bottom cuff, pleated trousers.

Fabrics
Combed mohair, compact double wool, 180 compact wool, technical wool felt. Two-tone quilted Toilbright, Toilovent, technical stripes and herringbone pattern. Reversible Toilovent and rubberised lambskin, rubberised lambskin with topstitching, endless road design rubberised lambskin with sabré technique, grained calfskin with brazilian horses silkscreen lining, patinated calfskin, babylamb with contrasted topstitching, sheepskin.

Cotton and wool with herringbone pattern and leather detail, supple cashmere flannel, technical wool, reversible cotton jacquard with polka dots, silk tie jacquard with polka dots, wool braiding with checks. Extra-fine cashmere with saddler topstitching, cashmere and silk with contrasted stripes, cashmere with playful ribbing, pop tv wool, endless road cashmere, wool and cashmere with two-toned arrows, tweed and stripes.

Cotton poplin, cotton and cashmere twill, cotton jacquard with polka dots, cotton with liquid tartan scarf print, silk. Supple cashmere flannel, wool broadcloth and cashmere, wool flannel, wool and mohair canvas, technical wool, stretch gabardine, cotton and wool with herringbone pattern, technical wool cover, cotton or silk jacquard with polka dots.

 

FW 2018-19 Hermès Fashion Show
Model Fashion Show Hermès
Man FW 2018-19 Fashion Show Hermès
Fall 2018-19 Menswear Hermès
Winter 2018 Fashion Trends Hermès
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Sat, February 17 2018 » Fashion Blog » No Comments

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