GLENN MARTENS DELIVERS A PLAYFUL STATEMENT ON FASHION
Inviting guests to take a dive into joyful childhood memories, Y/PROJECT hosted its HOMME AW20 show in a giant ballon-filled playground. Glenn Martens creates this season a show with an immersive atmosphere that conveys the brand’s tongue-in-cheek wit.
As soon as the show begins, the scenography immediately comes together with the collection in a celebration of individuality, to the pace of a fanfare march. The first looks, men’s suiting turned inside out with exaggerated seams and panels of colorful satin wrapped in tulle, set the tone of a joyful and prolific collection.
This visual impact is instantly amplified by another: a plunging bodysuit over high waisted pants with a sharp V cut at the front. Instead of the usual snap fastener, this bodysuit is prolonged by long straps tied around the waist. The tying concept is developed on shirts and tank tops but also with skirts and pants, translating classic pieces in a more playful language. Each piece is an experience and a mean of personal expression.
The accessory line features mind-bending pieces, always exploring the limits of construction. Glenn Martens proposes this season a new sailor knot-shaped bag, as well as a reversible, folding logo tote bag with a cashmere print that can be used as scarf too. The now iconic accordion bag is now developed as a more everyday tote version as well. Bold earrings made of chiseled and curved metallic pieces are reminiscent of Art Déco sculptures.
The brand’s creative vocabulary is continued this season in new variations: the coats’ lapels split in two create a pop-up effect, a shoulder clip blurs the structure of classic pieces, sweaters are doubled and mohair knit pieces are slashed. 3D seams on the front panel of pants are a reinterpretation of pieces seen years ago on the Y/PROJECT runway.
The last segment of the show reveals an exclusive collaboration with Canada Goose. The Parisian label is partnering with the Toronto outerwear expert on a six piece capsule collection, including asymmetric parkas, sweaters and reversible beanies. Re-imagining Canada Goose’s most iconic styles, this collaboration mixes playful proportions with functional outerwear to deliver the pinnacle of performance luxury.
In a new iteration of Y/PROJECT’s twisted couture, Glenn Martens offers an effusion of deconstructed shapes, colors, and textures. In a pure Y/PROJECT fashion, this collection delivers a masterful statement on versatility and individuality.
Sun, February 2 2020 » Fashion Blog
Sat, February 1 2020 » Fashion Blog
The street is His stage, Blithe to rules, He takes pride and joy in dressing. All style – no conscious styling. Visceral, louche, feral, fly. A rogue with no received boundaries. “Flips the bird” to convention. Natural sexual power. Enjoys that his decadence dazzles, confronts and brings hither. The raunch of the early 80s underground Punk rock scene – New York Dolls. Stooges, Ramones, Male Magpie. An evolution of our Summer collection.
Urs Lüthi, Karlheinz Weinberger
No rules .. from puffed-up to lithe. Accentuated waists emphasise shoulders. Variations on the trench coat. Punk Perfecto, Ruching and pleating of garments held in place by diamante clasps and brooches. Layering.
Vivid with Dark, Rustic with urbane, Brown, Ochre, Green. Red, Metallic, Khaki. Pastels – from muted to acid. Lilac, peach, orange.
A dark abstraction of perceived Hawaiian floral themes. Animal prints and pictorial prints of Tigers.
Velvet, languid, From dry to luxuriant, Leather, Vinyl, Faux Fox, rustic T\tweeds and worsteds, silk, satin, chiffon, raw denim. Heathered and tweedy knits of varying gauges.
Bright white diamante studding on many garments. Platform boots in tones of leather & gold, High boxing boots, Silk squares knotted as kneckerchiefs. Man-bags, bling brooches and rope belts, ornate belts worn as pendants, Faux fox stoles, faux fur belts.
Sat, February 1 2020 » Fashion Blog
The meaning of romanticism, today, is different. It is in particular for men who have evolved out of enduring templates on how they should feel and how they should look like.
New contexts create new meanings. New meanings define new attitudes. In this flow, the sartorial appears to be again of pivotal value. The spirit has changed. For too long, a tailored suit has been considered a uniform, something in which to hide, something to adopt blindly and probably impersonally.
For Pierpaolo Piccioli it is the thoughtful precision of the construction, the attention to detail and ultimately the sense of intimacy of tailoring that matter. Intimacy as a serene dialogue between the individual, with what he wears, and what he wants to express with it.
Tailored jackets, coats, suits, but also sartorially inclined sportswear, are mixed in ways that do not obey to a standard rulebook. An idea of tailoring that is sensitive and romantic emerges, as a structured, lean and fluid silhouette materializes, grounded in commando-soled shoes.
The urge to express feelings is palpable in the ever personal sums of white, ivory, burgundy, lead, blue, black; visible in the romanticism of the Inez and Vinoodh’s flower images that are patched onto pieces; readable in the Melanie Matranga sentimental words magnified all over the surfaces until they become signs and abstractions.
Tailoring, ultimately, offers a vocabulary, not a way of conforming. It is about having the proper words to express oneself, following sensitivity and spontaneity.
Thu, January 30 2020 » Fashion Blog
In a patriarchal society, masculine gender identity is often moulded by violently toxic stereotypes. A dominant, winning, oppressive masculinity model is imposed on babies at birth. Attitudes, languages and actions end up progressively conforming to a macho virility ideal that removes vulnerability and dependence. Any possible reference to femininity is aggressively banned, as it is considered a threat against the complete affirmation of a masculine prototype that allows no divergencies.
There is nothing natural in this drift. The model is socially and culturally built to reject anything that doesn’t comply with it. And this has very serious implications. Toxic masculinity, in fact, nourishes abuse, violence and sexism. And not only that. It condemns men themselves to conform to an imposed phallocratic virility in order to be socially accepted. In other words, toxic masculinity produces oppressors and victims at the same time.
Therefore, it seems necessary to suggest a desertion, away from patriarchal plans and uniforms. Deconstructing the idea of masculinity as it has been historically established. Opening a cage. Throwing a chant. It’s time to celebrate a man who is free to practice self-determination, without social constraints, without authoritarian sanctions, without suffocating stereotypes. A man who is able to reconnect with his core of fragility, with his trembling and his tenderness.
A man on his knees in front of surrender, who honors fear and its thorns. A man full of kindness and care. A man who leans on others, who burns up the myth of self-sufficiency. A man who is also sister, mother, bride. A man swollen with disorder, who names blood’s ignition and nostalgia’s dismay. A man who complicates the weaving of his own affectivities, opening himself to non hierarchical relations. A baby man, able to do bold and playful somersaults, who wonders in amazement when the world becomes new. A man pregnant with broken chains.
It’s not about suggesting a new normative model, rather to release what was constrained. Breaking a symbolic order, which is nowadays useless. Nourishing a space of possibility where masculine can shake its toxicity off, to freely regain what was taken away. And, in doing this, turning back time, learning to unlearn.
Thu, January 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
Fendi © Copyright 2020
As an exercise in FENDI-fied classicism, the FENDI Men’s Fall/Winter 2020-2021 Collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi re-imagines a new normal, where ‘traditional’ garments are not always what they seem. With retro-futurist undertones, the Collection dances to its own beat of polished utility: distilling the essence of FENDI craftsmanship into a surprising wardrobe for the modern gentleman.
Alternating a sartorial canon of melton wool, heavy twill and flannel with the plush hand of shearling, flocked denim and corduroy suede, the Collection evolves through the application of trompe l’oeil fabrics and transforming proportions. Considering the garment as a body wallet – and vice versa – is a key conceit, as multi-pocket insertions in reversible outerwear, knits and tailored card holders, earphones, and even a cigar.
Inside-out constructions and quilting are traced across blazers and coats cut in compact matte satin, and outerwear shapes in waterproof gabardine are bonded with felt tabs and FENDI Roma taped seams. Double entendres abound, as sleeves or jacket hems zip off in alternating fabrications and colourways, and straight trousers or shorts are spliced with a skirt.
Picking up pieces of the FENDI puzzle old and new, the FENDI Code print interprets the FF logo as a chain link animalia pattern played in multiple abstractions of monochrome and multicolor prints or intarsias. Like a secret message, this graphic motif embodies the season’s slick 70s allure.
Accessories are a tribute to the iconic FENDI yellow. Framed in black, yellow leather shopper bags and charms inspired by vintage FENDI packaging join the Baguette and Peekaboo in handknit wool and different sizes, as well as hard and soft monogram luggage styles – together with a ‘travel Peekaboo’ inspired by 1800s trunks. High and low lug-soled boots, bucket hats and docker beanies subvert formality with an industrial elegance.
Silvia Venturini Fendi collaborates with the Japanese designer Anrealage on a selection of photochromic outerwear and accessories. As the first Ready-to-Wear designer to utilize UV colour-changing fabric technology in 2013, Anrealage creative director Kunihiko Morinaga is an industry pioneer.
The four FENDI Men’s silhouettes represent the first photochromic Menswear on a European runway and include three light-sensitive transformations across sports-inspired outerwear, mittens, inside-out tailoring, bags and accessories. When exposed to UV light a white tiger quilting shines a FENDI yellow and a white diamond quilting reveals a new FENDI Code in black.
Thu, January 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
Ciao is an Italian word that is understood worldwide. It is a greeting and a way to present yourself: we can say CIAO to everyone without fear of being misunderstood. Today, fashion rushes ahead at the same speed: it makes itself understood and needs no explanation, filters or intermediaries.
Not even a designer, who is eternally balancing his obsessions and desire for renewal, always knows where his ideas will take him, because they often arrive at the speed of a CIAO. Above all, like a CIAO, they won’t give any explanation yet are nevertheless understood.
The MEN’S FW20/21 collection is born out of my conviction that a focus on the product reflects the times and is a message to the future through the details that created it in the present.
If I cannot own a photo by Man Ray, but I do not settle for its reproduction on paper, then I’ll think up an embellishment of that image on a bag, making sure that, bead after bead, its craftsmanship preserves its authenticity over time.
The same operation is done on a loden coat, with pleating that creates new volume, or on a gray wool suit with a stunning “Vivaldi-style” bow on the back that attenuates its austere appearance, on tartan boucle that exaggerates a classic woman’s jacket or on a little striped cardigan with a fur stitch that exasperates the volume.
Everything was created to blend elements in a garment that carries them into the future through indications of their designer’s modern mindset and attitude.
Thu, January 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
The multi-logo patrol of ICEBERG breaks the rules and joins the party. The “overseers” with their reflective uniforms lose their austerity and join the ravers. The location chosen by ICEBERG’s Creative Director James Long for the Fall-Winter 2020 men’s collection show could not better represent this visionary party: “the Alcatraz”, a historic Milanese club that bears the name of the most famous prison in the world.
A dualism that becomes a fusion, like the ICEBERG collection where luxury sportswear merges unexpectedly with military and formal silhouettes. And when the guards begin to let themselves be tempted by the party, the music changes and coats with jacquard effects appear and the iconic down jacket by ICEBERG is discovered in new color block variants.
Tweety, Silvestro and Taz and other iconic characters from the Loonely Tunes world also turn unexpectedly into blue and black degradé on sweatshirts, jackets and coats. All the characters have been redesigned starting from the original drawings. White, black and forest green are the colors chosen by Long to reinterpret punk sport.
The iconic piece is the tyvek k-way, capable of merging functionality into style becoming a bag, with a zip closure at the bottom and the sleeves that become backs. James Long brings back the iconic oval in the ICEBERG logo in a neon yellow version that becomes a new brand signature. It is a reference to the brand’s glorious 90s.
The rave party really begins when the ICEBERG logo becomes trippy and the Art Collection makes its appearance. For the second chapter of this capsule within the main collection, James Long has chosen to reinterpret the works of the English artist Eddie Peake.
Inspired by Peake’s multi-layered painting technique, the ICEBERG sweaters become true pieces of art where Italian craftsmanship blends with the artist’s bright and vivid characters. The Rave shirt! Rave! Rave! it is one of the key pieces of this transformation, as well as the sweatshirt with the ICEBERG logo reinterpreted with the iconic “schotch” character of Peake.
The artist’s works are mixed by James Long in a new way, in a real four-handed work to create something new and unexpected.
Thu, January 23 2020 » Fashion Blog
MSGM © Copyright 2020
MSGM proudly presents Haunted, a collection created in close collaboration with Dario Argento, the legendary film director and Master of Horror. It’s a tale of saturated colour, killer aesthetics, desire and the glee of a dark attitude.
“I am obsessed with Dario Argento. It was an honour to spend time with the Master, talking about his movies, his aesthetics, and his attitude to life. This collection is inspired by Argento’s masterpieces, and also his whole way of being,” says Massimo Giorgetti, creative director, MSGM.
Welcome to the darkness of Haunted, where you will find the light. It’s about going deep inside to reveal the contrasts of your personality, the sides of your character that make your true self.
Tailoring is cut with devastating allure, creating sharp suits that are worn for pure pleasure, some of the tailoring with buckle details. Tailored coats have a sexy fluidity, the blood red of a duffel in tribute to Argento’s classic 1975 film Deep Red. Throughout, the colour palette celebrates Argento’s uncompromising aesthetic: cyclamen, sienna brown, emerald green, lavender, all contrasted with the ever-present black.
Shirts are printed with posters from classic Argento movies, such as Cat O’Nine Tails, Phenomena and Suspiria, alongside images of famous scenes, like the killer’s eye from Deep Red. Meanwhile, graphics of carnivorous plants set the sweet nightmare mood of the fairytale. Knitwear has drama, like the cyclamen front panel of a sweater that’s buttoned and draped onto black.
For MSGM, tailoring and casual are like the two sides of our character that come together as a whole. It’s like Dario Argento once said, “We are two. My dark side and I”. Black denim has been washed and dyed red, as if saturated in fake blood. Jacquard knit sweaters clash images of monsters, cats and horror film characters, like a fantasy world. Argento’s films are drenched in humour, and here monsters give the middle finger on sweatshirts, while a hoodie is detailed with three conjoined teddies stitched together.
During the collection, MSGM reveals six women’s Pre-Fall 2020 looks, playing with print combined with tailored silhouettes. The presence of women on the catwalk heightens the tension and fleshes out the story.
Boots are in collaboration with Cult. Leather gloves are inspired by the accessories of Argento’s killers. Leather cross-body satchel bags are as if perfect to carry one of Argento’s scripts.
Tue, January 21 2020 » Fashion Blog
Salvatore Ferragamo © Copyright 2020
Marking Salvatore Ferragamo’s return to Milan’s menswear schedule our Creative Director Paul Andrew embarks upon a playful exploration of the increasingly diverse and fluid and free nature of contemporary masculine identities.
Paul Andrew explains: “In this first Ferragamo show of the new decade I want to use the language of fashion to ask: what does masculinity look like in 2020? To find answers we began with six ‘alpha’ male archetypes – Businessman, Biker, Racing Driver, Sailor, Soldier and Surfer. Then we fabricated their attire applying traditional Ferragamo artisanship guided by a determinedly non-conformist attitude. The agenda is to retain the aesthetic of uniform while subverting the once-rigid assumptions it enforced. To do this we use luxuriously tactile and fluid materials blend together our six masculine categories.
Clothes can define you: worn with thought and freedom they can also redefine you by serving as tools for experiment, evolution and transformation. This power held by clothing is something I see is much more relished in womenswear: today I wanted to create clothes and accessories for change in a very masculine context. A man today is not obliged to assume a single, set role: he can be a multitude, and he can change his worn identity any time he wishes. That’s a freedom we want to explore in the 2020s.”
Following the Ferragamo ‘toe to head’ philosophy, this collection is based upon a foundation of footwear. These include bench made boots whose leather uppers are combined with the fabric of the garment worn above, featuring triple-stacked cuoio leather soles with square Gancini stud accessories. Large profile ‘biker’ and ‘army’ boots feature a high-flex V-lug (inspired by 1949 archival Ferragamo shoe) with a hybrid lace up/Chelsea boot upper.
The ‘Tornabuoni’ group evolves into a holdall and camera bag. Duffle bags in lightweight upholstery, hand- woven wide weave totes with matching belts and the new square Gancini stud buckle. Leather trimmed sunglasses.
This collection abounds with sensualised, elevated and rethought masculine ‘uniform’ classics from its six archetype genres: these are then mixed into outfits that defy categorisation – hero pieces for anti-heroes.
The opening look, for instance, features a peacoat (Sailor) in Scottish herringbone tweed (Businessman) with a double pleat at the front drawn from 1980’s Japanese beachwear and worn over double faced silk wool leggings (Surfer). Elsewhere a leather fire suit (Racing driver) is worn under a rib knit sweater (Sailor) and a surfer’s kangaroo pocketed vest. “Camouflage” print pieces (Military) in oxblood and olive are in fact palm prints (Surfer) which are worn against leather flight jacket (Soldier). Front-fold velcro-belt pants (Surfer), grain calfskin leathers (Biker) are also part of our mix-but-not-match multitude.
The collection abounds with these swirling cocktails of reference and expression.
Tue, January 21 2020 » Fashion Blog