Msgm © Copyright 2014
X(ex) Cruel stories of youth.
Showing the video by Motus* “Je me cherche”. “Je veux dire: le rien, le vide, tout le monde le voit partout… mais moi je résiste, j’essaie, je veux que quelque chose arrive. Abolir le temps mort, être en écoute permanent… assumer le risque de s’exposer à la première personne.”
Alghiero Boetti’s beautiful maps as inspiration. His embroidered tapestries. “The infinite Possibilities of Existence”. “Encounters and Challenges”. His free and inventive use of language.
Teddy Boy Grunge: words with strong connotations of the USA of the fifties and sixties for an eighties silhouette. WONDERLUST, GROOVY, MAMAS BOY. Pineapples and Cactus are borrowed from nature, and are turned into prints, embroidery and knits.
Ferns are borrowed from interior décor and turned into clothing. But everything can co-exist, even in a single piece: ferns are interrupted by flags, and flags are interrupted by black&white optical warning tape.
“Signs and Design”. “Give Time to Time”. “Hungry for Wind”. “Attracting Attention”. “For new Desires”.
The cactus are on canvas and batiste. The ferns are on crisp poplin and wool flannel. The spots are on cotton canvas. The hound’s-tooth on linen.
Multicoloured rugby stripes on sweatshirts. The optical flags are on nylon. The gingham is large on piqué polo shirts, and inserted in knitwear. Polos are the new shirts. Shirts are the new sweatshirt. The cotton tunic the new t-shirt.
Wide trousers with darts and wide off-the-shoulder tops. Box shirts and maxi bermuda boxers. The New Comfortable. Pink, mauve, light blue, turquoise, yellow. And beige, blue, military green and black.
This story only has one tune in the background: “I walk alone” by the Californian indie band YACHT.
“I see immense beauty in the work in the Embroidered Map. I had no part in that work, I made no choices, as the world is as it is and I did not design it, flags are what they are and I did not design them. In short, I did absolutely nothing: when the basic idea, the concept appears, everything else is no longer a choice”. A Boetti
Fri, July 4 2014 » Fashion Blog
Calvin Klein Collection © Copyright 2014
Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2015
Italo Zucchelli, Men’s Creative Director
Graphic lines. Bright hues. Bold statements. A sharp palette of summery, high energy brights are grounded with essential neutrals and modernized with layers of transparency. A sporty yet elegant simplicity pervades in updated versions of classic menswear pieces.
Silhouettes. Lightweight and lightly textured cotton tanks and t shirts, rounded and curved, add a soft, cool layer under bright, transparent blousons and jackets. Some layers are purposefully neutral, while others are more richly hued for a more vibrant pop of color. The bomber, lightly quilted in mesh and softly padded, is tailored to hit just above the waist, often with a peek of color or skin. Following last season, pants are slim and lean and offered in cotton tech stretch and bonded wool, always with a turned up cuff. Suiting is refreshed by mixing colors and fabrications for fresh combinations. The double breasted peak lapel tuxedo, modernized yet elegant, with a statement monochromatic or contrasting stripe on the trouser side seam.
Materials. A second skin. A sexy, athletic spirit underpins jackets and tops rendered cool in sleek nylons, luxuriously soft leathers, and modern materials like PVC. Richly textural, lightweight and exotic, eel becomes a highlight when rendered as a baseball jacket or a tank top. Dense cottons and bonded wools contrast with layers of microtexture mesh to create a mix of surfaces in unique combinations. Iconic men’s trunk and boxer brief underwear styles, layered and rendered in light mesh, give a nod to an important heritage of the house.
Colors. Heat. Confident, intensely bright and saturated shades of solar yellow, tangerine, and vermilion red add depth and warmth to a neutral palette of buff, chestnut, char, white and black. Tonal and monochromatic schemes evolve into color blocked tableaus with peeks of vibrant solids, transparent layers or insets. For evening, contrasted colors or PVC stripes give a modern polish to a classic tuxedo pant or lapel. Bold and graphic.
Accessories. Intersecting performance and utility. Sporty high top sneakers, in softest French calf, with monochrome geometric insets and a lightweight desert boot sole. Utilitarian backpacks and small, personal leather goods are rendered in luxe combinations of alligator or French calf with nylon and finished with black matte hardware and finishes in buff or bright hues of vermilion and solar. The updated pilot sunglass with a tonal metal frame and geometric lens.
Wed, July 2 2014 » Fashion Blog
Mon, June 30 2014 » Fashion Blog
Architecture and space
The starting point was architecture then space came along as a word to objectify it. The inspiration is the result of their interaction translated into the origin of functionality to embody the social structures, the business logics.
Innovations and destructions; splendor and decadence, philosophy and romanticism, masculine and feminine are the sources to develop this new chapter: architecture vs space like textures vs surfaces.
With the Spring-Summer 2015 collection Stefano Pilati continues to explore and to combine apparent contradictions. The new Ermenegildo Zegna Couture researches and develops a silhouette and an attitude that evolves from the previous two collections.
The silhouettes are more evidently defined in their volumes – the space – and in their graphism – the architecture.
The presence of stripes throughout the collection as a vehicle to mark an exercise of style where formality and leisure breathe the same languid summer allure.
Thu, June 26 2014 » Fashion Blog
Corneliani © Copyright 2014
The spotlight is on every possible shade of white – from ice and cream to pearl and mastic, through to delicate powdery sky blues and sage greens – and its direct counterpart, black: a timeless keynote and the only concession to dark colours.
Menswear is moving away from more rigid templates towards a fresh, new, easier take on elegance inspired by younger wardrobes but embellished with luxurious fabrics and stylish details.
The rule is to wear one size larger than usual: laidback streetwear echoes the free spirits who express themselves on the streets of a fast-paced world as it reacts to the uncertainties of the present, always ready to grasp what comes its way.
The structure of the jacket is never restrictive: it does not overlook the sartorial ethic – that historic bastion of elegance so dear to Corneliani – but reinterprets it, retracing the needs of a man far-removed from the static self-contemplation of the past.
Clothes reflect a lifestyle based on constant movement, in a dialogue between very different scenarios. This form of elegance is comfortable and universal, ideal for a range of occasions and age groups, for men who are not restricted by increasingly outmoded, rigid masculinity.
The brand’s creative director Sergio Corneliani sees the suit as the real challenge. Designed around unusual volumes, innovative materials and new uses, it loses its inflexible imprint and takes on a democratic, informal look in a perfect blend of subtle bohemian style and chic sportswear.
Classic sartorial patterns have been swept aside in favour of rich compact stretch cottons, blended with silk in micro jacquard effects.
The jacket is short and looser on the waist, with three buttons and narrow lapels.
It is worn with baggy trousers (with pleats) which drape over the shoes, or designs without pleats which are comfortable on the hips but always short and with turn-ups. There is also a revolution in the classic shirt, now looser in style with lower shoulders and a funnel neck.
The must-have piece for spring/summer 2015 is the T-shirt in soft leather or ultra- lightweight cashmere printed with monochrome graphics.A symbol of Corneliani’s new aesthetics is the square-shaped blouson jacket which sits just above the hips.
More casual pieces include hooded parkas and trench coats in high-performance cotton with transpiring, water-repellent, windproof membranes.
“In my role as father to three very young men and the brand’s creative director,” explains Sergio Corneliani, “I believe we must look to the future with confidence and flexibility.
“Today I would extend our brand’s historic slogan, ‘The continuity of the past in the present’, to include ‘… on our journey towards the future’, as we reach out to the customers of tomorrow.”
Wed, June 25 2014 » Fashion Blog
TAILORING MEETS SPORTSWEAR
Z ZEGNA SS2015
Bold, energetic and decisively tech-driven, the essence of the new Z ZEGNA collection is dedicated to an urban trendsetter with an active work-into-week-end lifestyle.
The Spring/Summer 2015 season marks a new chapter for the brand whose new tailoring-meets sportswear identity blends the elegance and cutting-edge attitude of ZZegna with the techno-urban leisurewear expertise of Zegna Sport.
An imprimatur forged by five key elements that are the common thread between the two former brands – Deformalization, Sportification, Hybridization, Urbanization and Innovation. Signature traits underscored by the exclusive pentagon mesh graphic that becomes a characterizing motif for the new Z ZEGNA.
The new collection targets a global metropolitan, multi-tasking urban commuter who juggles his 24/7 schedule with ease and attitude. The “tailoring meets sportswear” direction builds on a wardrobe of suits, shirts, outerwear that effortlessly meld practicality with elegance.
Softly-tailored silhouettes of seasonless appeal are fashioned from lightweight fabrics, including high performance wools, technical cottons and advanced sportswear in “Techflex” featuring laser cut, zero seams, heat-sealed constructions.
The color palette is hinged on two shades of gray, cement and carbon, injected with jade green, citrus yellow, royal blue and monochromatic black and white.
The Techmerino project extends its evolution into sartorial pieces. Shapes are tailored but never constricting, elevated by technically-inspired details that gain a refined and cosmopolitan vibe, becoming iconic Z ZEGNA brand staples and appearing on tailored suits and blazers, knits, as well as ergonomic T-shirts and exclusive technical outerwear.
The 100% pure superfine Techmerino wool is designed to be worn in direct contact with the skin to maximize the natural thermal and hydroscopic properties.
To complete the new brand’s identity Z ZEGNA presents an extensive collection of sneakers. For men of bolder fashion wit, the multi-colored Z ZEGNA Techmerino Racer is the season’s key ingredient.
Available in spectrum of colors and materials including luxurious nappas and suedes, technical meshes and printed sting ray leather, this new iconic shoe features an innovative Techmerino lining.
A perfect combo between a classic shape and a running shoe, it adds the final touch to a new paradigm in style.
Tue, June 24 2014 » Fashion Blog
Watch the Men’s Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2015 Runway Show live Sunday, June 22nd at 1.30PM CEST (7.30AM EST). Stay Tuned…!!!
Sat, June 21 2014 » Fashion Blog
Sat, June 21 2014 » Fashion Blog
English-woven gabardine from the Burberry Mill, denim, paperweight cotton, cotton velvet, dégradé silk knit, lightweight double cashmere, seersucker cashmere, textured linen, nubuck, printed leather, felt.
Parchment, saffron yellow, orange ochre, orange red, light copper, crimson, magenta pink, storm blue, bright navy, aqua green, olive green, vintage green.
Trench coats, denim jackets, English duffle coats, lean Chesterfields, cabans, field jackets, slim tailoring, tapered leg trousers.
Hand-painted illustrations and typography inspired by vintage English book covers.
The Burberry Travel Satchel, the Burberry Everyday Satchel, the Burberry Field Sneaker, the Burberry Campaign Hat, book cover print leather notebooks, book cover print scarves in cashmere and silk.
Fri, June 20 2014 » Fashion Blog
Thu, June 19 2014 » Fashion Blog