The Fall Winter 2013 collection while remaining coherent to its deeply Italian soul, it embraces international echoes and influences : in the background St. Petersburg, the Western taste and opulence of its architecture, the light of a winter day that slowly rises in the most European cities of Russia, fairy-tale landscapes and rarefied atmosphere of color notes.
Echoes and quotations – Gogol, Mark Rothko, and Sonia Delaunay – are transformed in the tailoring of a parade coat in saturated colors and precious coats of velvet, double-breasted suits in the rigor of refined, luxury fantasies in silk scarves and waistcoats , in the softness of a warm but strict fur lining.
A composite but casual elegance, where the codes, strict time, are now little more than a sophisticated game through which to express its own unique personality of a man who is a little ‘retro and a little’ edge.
Exclusive fabrics – cashmere, silk, Casentino and bouclé – marry the classic tones of brown, blue and gray, mixed with saturated and intense colors as purple, brick red and dark, or in those colors of mineral oil, petrol blue and malachite.
Dry and comfortable cuts for clothes for single and double breasted, but the coat is the undisputed star of the collection, precious and large wool-silk and mink inlaid, or soft boiled wool resulting in deco, or military-style lofty and sumptuous, with astrakhan collar.
Upon completion of impeccable style, important accessories in crocodile, perfect touches to a luxurious collection in memory of a past in which men chose clothing as an expression of status symbol.
Sat, March 2 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Z Zegna© Copyright 2013
THE URBAN WANDERER MEETS THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Today. Yesterday. Tomorrow. Different time frames that characterize the new Z Zegna AW 2013-14 collection, a counterpoint of today’s fast-paced and digitally-connected society with outdoorsy tradition and meticulous craftsmanship borrowed from the distant past.
An artful and youthful balance for a demanding man with a nomadic soul whose agenda blurs the line between work and leisure time. Contemporary clothes for a dynamic and urban lifestyle where heritage elements bond with innovative constructions and fabrications – heat sealed garments, heat taped details, the search for three dimension. The raincoat, instead, morphs into the rain suit.
Caravaggio’s moody and intense color palette permeates a collection filled with shades of brown, from tobacco to sienna, ash gray and ebony, plus flashes of kingfisher or cadmium red matched with navy.
The exclusive fabrics are rough, tough and matte. A mismatch of layered textures anchored on felted wools, degradé effects, wool and silk blends that resemble shearling, winter cottons and jersey bonded with worsted wools, all of which ooze timeless endurance as in the best Zegna tradition. Classic patterns – stripes, argyles, checks and quilting – blown up or manipulated to become textured graphic layers for rustic outwear.
In lieu of the coat, dapper three-button blazers are layered over one another to modern effect and paired with conical pants, either flat-front or single pleat. New is the “Atelier” fit, a highlight for the new sartorial suit that features blazers with a nostalgic feel. The shoulders are deconstructed or bold and sharp, reminiscent of the Italian sartorial tradition. Sturdy and authentic garments such as wide-sleeved shirts peeking from under fitted vests nod to heraldic gestures, conveying a sense of protection.
All in all, a pragmatic and functional message that channels a sense of clarity and order in today’s fast-fashion maelstrom.
Thu, February 28 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Iceberg © Copyright 2013
The colors and shapes marking Iceberg menswear for next fall find inspiration in the rules of the Bauhaus design movement. As in avant-garde vision, pure practicality, modern essence.
Geometric expressions of primary blue, red and yellow hues play an ornamental role in a collection where beige and black predominate with the chromatic repetition of a kinetic sculpture.
The technical use of color captures a design concept that evolves and emerges in the knitwear – true core of the collection – as the textural richness of the yarns bonds perfectly with the geometric cleanliness emblematic of the School founded by architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany, in the early 20th century.
Strong rhythms influence the robotic gait of men who display a relaxed and self-assured elegance that reflects the true spirit of the sportswear intrinsic to the brand.
Absolutely natural fabrics – wool, silk, cotton, cashmere – mix and mingle with technical materials.
Wed, February 27 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
Synthetic – organic, sport – luxury, urban – elegant.
The new collection comes into being from the collision of universes apparently in conflict with one another.
Juxtaposition creates a surprising mix of glamour and elegance.
The absolute stars are leather, knitwear and fur, with highly advanced construction techniques appropriated from the world of sport; graphic inlays and colour blocking, like icy grey mélange, pine green with egg yolk yellow, camel, lilac-lavender and emerald green.
Volume in extreme opposition, from the very loose to the very tight, deliberately brought together in a carefully thought-out play of aesthetic contrasts. These contrasts also return in the vast choice of materials: natural wool, astrakhan, calfskin, technical fabrics, velvet, transparent nylon and many more.
The most emblematic feature of the Juxtaposition between experimentation and tradition, is the fur sports coat, which combines weather-proof zips, heat sealing construction and technical membranes with beaver fur. The reinterpretation of a classic in the Dirk Bikkembergs style.
The Dirk Bikkembergs Man’s wardrobe is constructed around contrast and juxtaposition: impeccable, bold, urban, sportive, yet, always, effortlessly elegant.
Wed, February 27 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments
DAKS returns to Milan for the second time showcasing the Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection under the creative direction of Filippo Scuffi.
The collection takes its main inspiration from a typical English gentleman of the early 1900s, secure in his style, whose look is refined, but with a dash of bohemian nonchalance.
The tailored garments reflect this period in history and create a dignified air, often long and with a wealth of detailing. Deep vents, box pleats and prominent stitching feature strongly in the collection, highlighting the design and structure of the garments. The trouser silhouettes are narrow, reflecting the British look, while a key tailoring item is a double breasted jacket with a broad lapels.
The color palette this season is based around shades of navy, dark brown and grey with flashes of mustard yellow as a highlight.
Classic English menswear fabrics feature heavily in their time honoured roles such as suits, jackets and trousers, but also form significant details in capes and cloaks.
Velvets and wools sourced from British suppliers are woven compactly which results in a smooth texture.
The DAKS House Check is present throughout this collection, and has been reworked in an oversized wool design this season.
Luxurious knitwear in 100 % cashmere plays an important role and, again, the taste is Bohemian, often teamed with scarves.
Leather also features prominently and is devised either as bonded leather or combined with a woolen House Check fabric.
The bags are large and sophisticated, in soft nappa and chamois. The three main colour tones on which the collection is built are clearly apparent, as well as variations in leather and House Check wool.
Tue, February 26 2013 » Fashion Blog » No Comments